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Ideas for a JL Audio 12w7 (or similar size/spec) build

kineticMKVI

kineticMKVI

Ready to race!
ChrisB said:
The only downside to that is there isn't much room in the spare tire well. To fit something like a 12w7, one would have to raise the floor up so high that the hatch would be totally useless.

I still haven't had time to begin my install, but I hope the Boston Acoustics 10" G3 sub will be enough for me because I am not willing to dedicate much more space to a sub.

If the DubAudio enclosure with the sealed 10 isn't enough, I may just build a conventional enclosure that I can remove for either my Digital Designs 1508 or TrueBass Ultra LV 8 which I can't seem to sell. Well I could sell them, but peeps on the forums are CHEAP. I was lowballed on the TrueBass sub where someone offered me $30 shipped for it. I would be $12 in the hole after driving to the UPS Store, paying for packaging material, and paying for shipping.
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My buddy in high school had two DD's in his blazer, shit was bonkers. I went Phoenix Gold in my GTI, everything sounds really good compared to stock heh.
 
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ouTDrIveMK6

Passed Driver's Ed
Update: Just bought a pair of audison Voce AV 6.5's.

I have become tired of the stock speakers being drowned out by the 12w7. I can now install my audison lrx4.1k and bitone.

Where should I put them? Should I run the Voce's active (the speakers did not come with crossovers)? I guess I'll have to find some tweeters now as well; suggestions?

I already have quite a bit of trouble with dimming, so what do you guys think: will the "big 3" be sufficient? and/or capacitor? better main battery? 2nd battery? Questions, questions, questions!
 
Sanderzzz

Sanderzzz

Go Kart Champion
I had a 13.5W6v2 in my former vehicle (Chevy Equinox) and built the factory spec ported box. Man does JL build some of the best stuff out there. Honestly have to admit I'm a huge fan of the bubble build up above but that fiberglass couldn't have been cheap. The guy I bought my GTI from took the spare out and put a 10 inch its place. Honestly don't even know what brand because I've been to lazy too unscrew the cover and check. At some point thought it's gonna have to get an upgrade. I miss the boom
 
ChrisB1

ChrisB1

Go Kart Champion
I would start with a better main battery then possibly look towards a secondary battery and upgraded alternator. I am not a fan of capacitors for solving dimming problems.
 
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ouTDrIveMK6

Passed Driver's Ed
Sanderzzz said:
I had a 13.5W6v2 in my former vehicle (Chevy Equinox) and built the factory spec ported box. Man does JL build some of the best stuff out there. Honestly have to admit I'm a huge fan of the bubble build up above but that fiberglass couldn't have been cheap. The guy I bought my GTI from took the spare out and put a 10 inch its place. Honestly don't even know what brand because I've been to lazy too unscrew the cover and check. At some point thought it's gonna have to get an upgrade. I miss the boom
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Yeah I really like their subwoofers and amps! Do you know if your box is ported? Is the bass quite muffled being under the carpet?

ChrisB said:
I would start with a better main battery then possibly look towards a secondary battery and upgraded alternator. I am not a fan of capacitors for solving dimming problems.
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Thank you for the suggestion. Do you think it would be worth it to get an "audio-friendly" (expensive!) battery like XS for example or a very good normal car battery (a little less expensive). I have never ran a capacitor anyway. What alternator(s) would you suggest?
 
Sanderzzz

Sanderzzz

Go Kart Champion
Never saw your reply to me previously. Yeah so I checked an it's the MB Quart 10" in the stealth box. Pretty muffled from what I used to have. Definitely considering switching it with a JL shallow mount or getting back into something bigger and taking up half my hatch space in the process.
 
nvturbo

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
ouTDrIveMK6 said:
Bump to previous questions.

Also, does anyone have recommended dimensions for a spacer for the 6.5" speakers?
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Measure the opening diameter for the speaker you're using and cut it out of MDF/Birch Plywood. Way cheaper than those spacers.
 
ChrisB1

ChrisB1

Go Kart Champion
I went with 7" outer diameter and the inside diameter was that of my speaker cutout. I used marine plywood glued together to get my spacers at just under an inch.

EDIT: Since my initial response was on my iPhone, I didn't have all the details available. My plywood of choice was 15/32 marine plywood from one of the chain home improvement stores. I cut rings and glued them together, then covered them with truck bed liner.

This was the end result:




I ran out of my Sound Deadener Showdown butyl rope, so I ended up purchasing some 3m rope caulk locally from an auto parts store to place between the baffles and the door, the speaker and the baffle, and to seal the hole where I ran the wire through the baffle.

My only complaint now is I would rather have the JL Audio C5-650 6.5" driver over the 6.5" Genesis Profile 16 driver that I used. The C5-650 was just better at handling power whereas the Genesis power compresses like a mofo. Oh well, such is life with car audio, lol.
 
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ouTDrIveMK6

Passed Driver's Ed
Sanderzzz said:
Never saw your reply to me previously. Yeah so I checked an it's the MB Quart 10" in the stealth box. Pretty muffled from what I used to have. Definitely considering switching it with a JL shallow mount or getting back into something bigger and taking up half my hatch space in the process.
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Do it! Yeah, definitely half the hatch if you go with a typical ported box, but you should be good to go with a sealed box!

nvturbo said:
Measure the opening diameter for the speaker you're using and cut it out of MDF/Birch Plywood. Way cheaper than those spacers.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the suggestion.

ChrisB said:
I went with 7" outer diameter and the inside diameter was that of my speaker cutout. I used marine plywood glued together to get my spacers at just under an inch.

EDIT: Since my initial response was on my iPhone, I didn't have all the details available. My plywood of choice was 15/32 marine plywood from one of the chain home improvement stores. I cut rings and glued them together, then covered them with truck bed liner.

This was the end result:




I ran out of my Sound Deadener Showdown butyl rope, so I ended up purchasing some 3m rope caulk locally from an auto parts store to place between the baffles and the door, the speaker and the baffle, and to seal the hole where I ran the wire through the baffle.

My only complaint now is I would rather have the JL Audio C5-650 6.5" driver over the 6.5" Genesis Profile 16 driver that I used. The C5-650 was just better at handling power whereas the Genesis power compresses like a mofo. Oh well, such is life with car audio, lol.
Click to expand...

Dude, this was most helpful! Did the butyl rope/3m rope caulk help significantly with road noise and rattling? How much did the marine plywood run you?
I feel ya, car audio is always one of those ever-evolving hobbies!

I chickened out of attempting to do "the big 3" yesterday due to the alternator location. Anyone have words of advice or pics?
 
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