Level sensor modification for lowered MK7

[mikewire]

Has anyone ever modified the level sensor on the rear left on a lowered MK7? I've searched all over the forum with no results.

Here's the reason I ask: my GTi has the LP and is also lowered on VWR springs, and I found that running the adaptation (VCDS) in combination with the manual adjustment the headlights (up) still does not bring the lights up enough to see far enough down the road. I've also removed NAR, with no real results.

I'm at a point now where I think I need to modify the level sensor on the rear left control arm - my thinking is that with the car being lowered, this is putting the sensor at a point where the car's thinks the rear suspension is compressed, and the front up/level...so, the headlights will be pointed downward to compensate.

If I were to shorten the "dogbone" mount, this should remedy the situation. How much, I'll have to figure out, unless someone has another solution out there.

Thoughts?

 

[777-300ER]

If you run the headlight adaptation you do not need to adjust the arm. Re aim the headlamps.

 

[mikewire]

If you run the headlight adaptation you do not need to adjust the arm. Re aim the headlamps.

Did you read my troubleshooting steps above? I did the adaptation multiple times and raised the adjustment to the highest level...the cutoff height around 6 feet from my bumper, which is not high enough.

I also recently had the dealership replace one headlight under warranty, and even with the tech adjusting them, it's better, but the throw is not where is should be.

Let's not suggest the adaptation, because that's already been done. I'm wondering what others have done, and if anyone has modified the level sensor.

 

[DSC808]

I would not mess too much with the hardware. If its an issue raise your car back to stock.

 

[mikewire]

I would not mess too much with the hardware. If its an issue raise your car back to stock.

Warning: soapbox moment...

I'm seriously at a loss for words. Being new to the MK7 "scene", I thought I could come in and ask a simple modification question and someone would have a simple creative solution to this issue, which seems to be pretty common, based on my searches.

I've been in the VAG enthusiasts realm for upwards of 15 years, and a suggestion like raising your vehicle back to stock to resolve a minor issue like mine would get your enthusiast card pulled.

Does nobody try to be creative around here, or do we just bolt stuff on our cars and line our signatures up with upgrades? I mean, I have always had faith in the community, but these last suggestions have me concerned that creativity and innovation has been lost...is that true? Someone please chime in and show me otherwise.

Ok, off my soapbox now, my intent is not to offend, just stating my experience so far here.

My next steps: I'm going to order a new sensor, pull the dogbone linkage and see what I can do to either 3D print a new one that is shorter, or modify and shorten it by hand.

I'll let you guys know how it goes, and post my progress here. My hope is that I can provide an answer as well as contribute a new solution to the group.

Peace y'all.

 

[THEREALVRT]

just make a bracket to lower the mounting point on the control arm


on a side note.
my R is lowered on coilovers and after doing the basic setting then acknowledge basic settings my lights are quite high now. i get “flashed” regularly by people.

when i actually give a shit ill have to lower mine.

 

[Elwood]

That level adjustment is only to compensate for a load in the back or something else that would make the car not level anymore. If you lowered the car the same amount front and back, then the sensors don't know anything has changed. If you put six hundred pounds in the hatch, the rear will squat and the headlights will be pointed at the heavens - that's when the level sensors kick in and lower the headlights.

Go to Daniel Stern's Lighting page and read up on how to properly aim your headlights. Once you have everything set up, use VCDS to put the headlights in adjustment mode. Adjust the lights, then go back into VCDS to complete the set up.

Once again, do not use the level sensors to adjust your headlights. Their purpose is to compensate for an uneven load.

 

[mikewire]

just make a bracket to lower the mounting point on the control arm


on a side note.
my R is lowered on coilovers and after doing the basic setting then acknowledge basic settings my lights are quite high now. i get “flashed” regularly by people.

when i actually give a shit ill have to lower mine.

Yes! Critical thinking is happening, thank you

I considered moving the lower bracket, and correct me if I'm wrong...that would put the bracket and linkage below the bottom of the lower control arm, yeah? I would think that would be in an area that it could get torn off or damaged.

I think the upper bracket could be adjusted, possibly just rotate the body of the sensor. a few degrees I need to get under and remove it to see what options there are.

For reference, the picture above in my OP is of my actual sensor and linkage on my GTi.

 

[rotaryguy]

I don’t recall if the plastic dogbone is hollow, if not you could cut a section out of the center and get some small RC car or helicopter turnbuckles and have significant adjustability.
Pic for reference...

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[NopeR]

Adjust headlights via vcds/obd11. If that's not enough, adjust the headlights manually.

Seems you've already done that though. From the factory the headlights don't shoot out straight and only illuminate the roadway. Keep that in mind as I have a feeling you're going to blind incoming cars.

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[jimlloyd40]

Adjust headlights via vcds/obd11. If that's not enough, adjust the headlights manually.

Seems you've already done that though. From the factory the headlights don't shoot out straight and only illuminate the roadway. Keep that in mind as I have a feeling you're going to blind incoming cars.

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See Pokeyjoe's post a few posts back.

 

[quincy]

I also recently had the dealership replace one headlight under warranty, and even with the tech adjusting them, it's better, but the throw is not where is should be.

Why don't you take it back to the dealership and have them aim them again rather than fucking around with the sensor? No critical thinking required, just common sense.


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[Chogokin]

Did you try the adaptation first...before manually adjusting the head lights? I did mine with the adaptation only...and it leveled my lights just fine. I was able to see my lights move up. I wonder if there's something else that's out of adjustment.

 

[Gr33nBunny]

I had to adjust my headlights manually about 3.5 turns. I ran the headlight adaptation before, and afterwards, which seemed to make zero difference. Only the manual adjustment actually made a difference. I'm not very low either, but I felt as though the OEM headlight adjustment was lower than it should have been anyway.

 

[mikewire]

Thanks for the replies Gents, been a busy weekend, but here are my answers to your posts:

That level adjustment is only to compensate for a load in the back or something else that would make the car not level anymore. If you lowered the car the same amount front and back, then the sensors don't know anything has changed. If you put six hundred pounds in the hatch, the rear will squat and the headlights will be pointed at the heavens - that's when the level sensors kick in and lower the headlights.

Go to Daniel Stern's Lighting page and read up on how to properly aim your headlights. Once you have everything set up, use VCDS to put the headlights in adjustment mode. Adjust the lights, then go back into VCDS to complete the set up.

Once again, do not use the level sensors to adjust your headlights. Their purpose is to compensate for an uneven load.

Thanks for the link, I've seen it before and its a great reference.

As I understand, there's only one sensor - if I'm incorrect, please enlighten me. Lowering the car causes the sensor to be at a different position (the sensor arm is now at a higher point), so effectively I believe the car now thinks the rear is always overloaded and squatting, hence the fact that the headlights are always pointed downward. I'm not crazy low, but it's apparently enough to cause this issue.

If you happen to know what sensor the ECU uses as a zero-point reference value for "level", please let me know. Otherwise, my impression is that the level sensor is that reference. A lowered car with the sensor like it is angled right now seems to be always compensating for an uneven load. Which is why I am leaning towards adjusting the sensor arm to an angle that mimics the stock position.

My thoughts are just a hypothesis right now...but if you know differently and have facts to back it up, please share your reference with myself and the group.

I don’t recall if the plastic dogbone is hollow, if not you could cut a section out of the center and get some small RC car or helicopter turnbuckles and have significant adjustability.
Pic for reference...

This initial idea was exactly my thought as well - the linkage has some voids that would need to be filled with epoxy possibly. Initially I don't think it needs it to be adjustable, but it would be a great feature. If this ends up working for me, it could potentially help others, so I may pursue a more robust part, possibly a CNC'd adjustable linkage for suspension variability.

Adjust headlights via vcds/obd11. If that's not enough, adjust the headlights manually.

Seems you've already done that though. From the factory the headlights don't shoot out straight and only illuminate the roadway. Keep that in mind as I have a feeling you're going to blind incoming cars.

I'll be sure to adjust them appropriately, and for sure I've done the adjustment by the book. As it is right now, they don't project far at all, and at night it feels unsafe...I'll have to try and take a quick video for you guys to show you what I mean. High beams are perfect, and throw a ton of light, but the low beams are way too low.

Why don't you take it back to the dealership and have them aim them again rather than fucking around with the sensor? No critical thinking required, just common sense.

I'll be honest...I don't really trust the dealership to do a proper job. I'd have to drop the car off, find a ride back and forth for my daily commute, it's quite a pain when I need to drive to/from customer sites and my office. Plus it will take them hours to get it right...if they ever do...and in the end will probably give up and tell me they can't do it correctly because my car is not stock height and will still stick me with a few hours of shop time.

Given some time and research, I know I can adjust them correctly. It may take some trial and error, but I'll have the job done correctly, no going back and forth with serivce dept., and I will have educated myself and possibly others.

Did you try the adaptation first...before manually adjusting the head lights? I did mine with the adaptation only...and it leveled my lights just fine. I was able to see my lights move up. I wonder if there's something else that's out of adjustment.

Yes, I followed the procedure from the FAQ here on how to adjust LP headlights. Could be something else out of adjustment, although I have no idea what it could be. They also seem to be installed properly, just not leveling correctly.