lol I found a new way to throttle body adapt without VCDS

[damagi123]

Theres 100 ways people have said and none of them work. Ive tried em all. If you have a DP and youre getting RICH or LEAN codes and surging or pulling timing from A/F issues, try this.

Take your spacers off and flash back to stock and let it CEL

Then just flash back to Stg2 and clear the codes with whatever OBD tool or get autozone to do it.

Next time you start it will readapt and the surging will be gone. I dont know why but it works for A/F related surging.

I get surging and timing pull every year when I have to get inspected and put a spacer on my 2nd bung(cbfa) it always makes A/F ratios get fucked. The Master tech at my mod-friendly dealer was the one who explained it to me.

 

[nvturbo]

I'm guessing you're getting the surging/timing pull because you're on a APR tune. Don't have that issue with mine. Pass inspection EVERY SINGLE TIME.

 

[damagi123]

I mean all the tuners seem to have something people complain about
Its probably just cause im CBFA and catless and in NY. Its just fuckin finicky.

NY has OBD testing so I have to back to stock every year and fuck with spacers. If I was in 47 other states i could just leave it alone

 

[Tony48]

I mean all the tuners seem to have something people complain about
Its probably just cause im CBFA and catless and in NY. Its just fuckin finicky.

NY has OBD testing so I have to back to stock every year and fuck with spacers. If I was in 47 other states i could just leave it alone

Sorry to thread jack but since we're on the topic.....Maryland has the same type of OBD testing as NY. I'm having trouble getting readiness to set on my car. I'm CBFA and put a catted downpipe on ~6 weeks ago. I have been messing with spacers trying to figure out what I'm gonna do when emissions come around again. With my current spacer setup I initially threw code P2096 (Post cat o2 sensor too lean-intermittent) but the CEL and code have gone away (after I cleared it twice). I've been driving CEL free for a few weeks now and car is running great (over 2,000 miles). However, when I check Readiness with VAGCOM the "Oxygen Sensor(s)" and "Catalytic Converter(s)" sections say "Failed or Incomplete."

How do you guys get your readiness set before emissions? Thanks for any help.

 

[MLue1]

Theres 100 ways people have said and none of them work. Ive tried em all. If you have a DP and youre getting RICH or LEAN codes and surging or pulling timing from A/F issues, try this.

Take your spacers off and flash back to stock and let it CEL

Then just flash back to Stg2 and clear the codes with whatever OBD tool or get autozone to do it.

Next time you start it will readapt and the surging will be gone. I dont know why but it works for A/F related surging.

I get surging and timing pull every year when I have to get inspected and put a spacer on my 2nd bung(cbfa) it always makes A/F ratios get fucked. The Master tech at my mod-friendly dealer was the one who explained it to me.

Thanks every little knowledge helps, I'm sure that will work because you're basically putting it back to Stock then clearing the ODB Fault. This in effect will zero both the Long Term and Short term Trim values stored in the ECU, the ECU will recalculate the Short trim close to the Default values making everything good again.

You can monitor and see the effect in VAG.COM, blocks 32 and 33.

PS. The only Negative is that Reflashing adds a bit of Risk of "bricking your ECU", everytime you reflash there is always a risk. Make sure you have all lights turned off and a battery charger connected even if the flash only lasts 15 minutes.

 

[damagi123]

Sorry to thread jack but since we're on the topic.....Maryland has the same type of OBD testing as NY. I'm having trouble getting readiness to set on my car. I'm CBFA and put a catted downpipe on ~6 weeks ago. I have been messing with spacers trying to figure out what I'm gonna do when emissions come around again. With my current spacer setup I initially threw code P2096 (Post cat o2 sensor too lean-intermittent) but the CEL and code have gone away (after I cleared it twice). I've been driving CEL free for a few weeks now and car is running great (over 2,000 miles). However, when I check Readiness with VAGCOM the "Oxygen Sensor(s)" and "Catalytic Converter(s)" sections say "Failed or Incomplete."

How do you guys get your readiness set before emissions? Thanks for any help.

I dont know as much as many of the mechanic guys on here
From my own experience for CBFA its really important to not pull your sensors too far out of the stream.
Find a pretty short spacer or very open jetted one for the 2nd bung and a med size for the 3rd one and clear codes and drive for 40 or 50 miles and immediately get inspected. If you wait too long itl start getting finicky


that initial lean code just means you pulled it a bit too far out of the stream. For catless its different. with a cat you need to go 1 notch further into the stream than most recommend

 

[damagi123]

PS. The only Negative is that Reflashing adds a bit of Risk of "bricking your ECU", everytime you reflash there is always a risk. Make sure you have all lights turned off and a battery charger connected even if the flash only lasts 15 minutes.

I need a fact check on that. never heard it

with APR its got a built in map switch on the stalk and other tunes have a home OBD flasher tool or Accessport, ive never heard any suggestion theres anything to worry about and you can flash however many times you want

 

[Francoleon91]

wow great find man, talk about "forcing readiness"...

 

[Tony48]

I dont know as much as many of the mechanic guys on here
From my own experience for CBFA its really important to not pull your sensors too far out of the stream.
Find a pretty short spacer or very open jetted one for the 2nd bung and a med size for the 3rd one and clear codes and drive for 40 or 50 miles and immediately get inspected. If you wait too long itl start getting finicky


that initial lean code just means you pulled it a bit too far out of the stream. For catless its different. with a cat you need to go 1 notch further into the stream than most recommend

Thanks for the reply. I currently have a Vibrant J spacer with the smallest insert on the 3rd o2 sensor. No spacer on the 2nd sensor. I may try the medium insert instead. I really need to find out why my readiness is not setting (I assumed it would set as long as there is no CEL, but it could be due to the initial codes that were thrown). I'm gonna try disconnecting the battery for an hour to reset things.

 

[MLue1]

I need a fact check on that. never heard it

with APR its got a built in map switch on the stalk and other that have a home OBD flasher tool, ive never heard any suggestion theres anything to worry about

I can Flash! I'm not familiar with APR but my buddy's race team (C360R) work with them. If all you do is use a Map switch on your stalk then the APR Tune is quite advance and the ECU has both Flashes loaded all you're doing is choosing which one, then little to no risk but the guys doing the OBD port flash should be cautious, a low battery condition can spell big $$$ trouble.

EDIT: Sorry to rain on your parade, just thought you should be aware.

 

[sterkrazzy]

I'm guessing you're getting the surging/timing pull because you're on a APR tune.

I wouldn't be surprised. I can't believe how much smoother my new tune is.

 

[damagi123]

I can Flash! I'm not familiar with APR but my buddy's race team (C360R) work with them. If all you do is use a Map switch on your stalk then the APR Tune is quite advance and the ECU has both Flashes loaded all you're doing is choosing which one, then little to no risk but the guys doing the OBD port flash should be cautious, a low battery condition can spell big $$$ trouble.

EDIT: Sorry to rain on your parade, just thought you should be aware.

Will you reference a post or article.

Thanks for the reply. I currently have a Vibrant J spacer with the smallest insert on the 3rd o2 sensor. No spacer on the 2nd sensor.

go with the med or largest insert on the 3rd bung instead since you have a cat and get a small spacer on the 2nd bung maybe something like either of these since its tight in that spot

and since youre only stg1 flash you dont have to go back to stock.

https://www.amazon.com/XS-Power-oxy...rd_wg=A7dqa&psc=1&refRID=FYZ0SB1C432XSTKHPZJP

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01780RSKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[damagi123]

I wouldn't be surprised. I can't believe how much smoother my new tune is.

Im having k04 installed and genuinely considering going with a AP and etune instead of APR. theyre just a little too one size fits most. and yes mine pulls like a freight train right now on APR but its jerky and jumpy and wacky as fuck sometimes

 

[nygti3491]

I live in New York as well but I never had an issue with passing inspection I am stage 2 with a cat less dp with no spacers. It's also a ccta. I also have A giac tune. I never switched back to stock before getting inspected. I don't know why I haven't had an issue like you guys have maybe it's just the tuner?

 

[sterkrazzy]

yes mine pulls like a freight train right now on APR but its jerky and jumpy and wacky as fuck sometimes

Yup, APR pulled strong as hell when it wasn't surging, but the surging happened so often I couldn't take it anymore. I don't have as much power as I used to have, but I still need to do some logs and get my calibration done so hopefully that will give me a little more. I'm enjoying my car more overall now though. I actually feel like I can hand somebody my keys now without having to worry about them fucking something up, or saying my car drives like shit. 1st gear used to be a real pain in the ass, so I never liked other people driving my car since you had to modulate the throttle while feathering the clutch just right. If you didn't get it right she would try to take off from underneath you. Plus all the surging in every gear...she was a mess.