GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

****Need HELP car not turning over*****

Jaber

Modero
Got to love those threads with problems similar to yours, but OP never confirms what solved issue lol.
 

Sspcivic31

Drag Race Newbie
Pull one of the suspect relays out and test it.

Most all bosch style relays have the same config. Hopefully there is a diagram embossed or printed of its internal config.
A standard 12v relay is usually this:
85 coil
86 coil
30 common
87a normally closed
87 normally open

If you take a multi meter and check between 30 and 87a with the relay in your hand you should get continuity.

Now if you put 12v across the coil 85-86(some relays have suppression diodes so polarity would be important check the diagram on the relay)
The relay should click and 30-87a will be open and 30-87 will have continuity.
If you have a jumper you could bypass the relay all together in the socket.
 

FlyByGti1

Go Kart Champion
:D I just don't get it. My car turns over like normal but doesn't start... I KNOW! LET'S CHANGE THE BATTERY! It's like watching a woman standing on the side of the road with her hood open looking at the engine like "yep, it's there, what could the problem be?"

:laugh:

I read this over and over again and laughed every single time
 

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion

All of the injectors will not go at once. Hell, two could go at the same time and the car would still run. Bearly, but it would. Clearly if the car is not attempting to start at all there is a different issue.

You need fuel, air and ignition to make a car run.

-He said the spark plugs looked normal, so that shouldn't be the problem. Once again, if they were, all 4 won't break at the same time. Same thing with the coil packs.
-Air is a pretty simple one. As long as there are no blockages you shouldn't have an issue.
-Fuel would probably be the issue here. I don't think it's a stuck injector problem. If it was, they stick open and you would probably have a cylinder deactivation code. AND the car would smell terrible like fuel, but would still run. I would assume you aren't getting power to one of the fuel pumps, based off the car not starting at all and the code for the relays.
-My first step would be to take a volt meter to the intank pump and see if it's getting voltage. It most likely doesn't have voltage with just the key on, but should while you are cranking or sometime before/after. Either way, you should see voltage there.
-If no voltage, test the relay. But for 10 bucks it may be easier just to pick one up. You may even be able to swap one of the other relays (after-run pump maybe?) into the fuel pump spot to test that. If nothing there, check the ECU relay or whatever the other code was for. You could just jump power to power for this as well to get power to the pump/ecu/wehatever.
-Nothing there? Go oldschool and pull a plug, leave it attached to the coilpack and the coilpack hooked up, touch the plug against the valve cover and have someone crank the car and see if the plug is getting spark. If it's not, it may be an ECU problem.
-Somewhere in between any of this or at the end, have someone crank the car and spray carb cleaner into the air filter. If it's getting spark and sucking in air, but getting no fuel, the carb cleaner should be enough to get it to start/studder and let you know you have a bigger fuel problem.

That's just the route I would take, but guaranteed it would find your issue.
 

Kal-GTI

Ready to race!
All of the injectors will not go at once. Hell, two could go at the same time and the car would still run. Bearly, but it would. Clearly if the car is not attempting to start at all there is a different issue.

You need fuel, air and ignition to make a car run.

-He said the spark plugs looked normal, so that shouldn't be the problem. Once again, if they were, all 4 won't break at the same time. Same thing with the coil packs.
-Air is a pretty simple one. As long as there are no blockages you shouldn't have an issue.
-Fuel would probably be the issue here. I don't think it's a stuck injector problem. If it was, they stick open and you would probably have a cylinder deactivation code. AND the car would smell terrible like fuel, but would still run. I would assume you aren't getting power to one of the fuel pumps, based off the car not starting at all and the code for the relays.
-My first step would be to take a volt meter to the intank pump and see if it's getting voltage. It most likely doesn't have voltage with just the key on, but should while you are cranking or sometime before/after. Either way, you should see voltage there.
-If no voltage, test the relay. But for 10 bucks it may be easier just to pick one up. You may even be able to swap one of the other relays (after-run pump maybe?) into the fuel pump spot to test that. If nothing there, check the ECU relay or whatever the other code was for. You could just jump power to power for this as well to get power to the pump/ecu/wehatever.
-Nothing there? Go oldschool and pull a plug, leave it attached to the coilpack and the coilpack hooked up, touch the plug against the valve cover and have someone crank the car and see if the plug is getting spark. If it's not, it may be an ECU problem.
-Somewhere in between any of this or at the end, have someone crank the car and spray carb cleaner into the air filter. If it's getting spark and sucking in air, but getting no fuel, the carb cleaner should be enough to get it to start/studder and let you know you have a bigger fuel problem.

That's just the route I would take, but guaranteed it would find your issue.

Was on the highway going 65mph and car shot out a cloud of white smoke....and began to stutter, then got flashing CEL. Pulled over and shut car off thinking I blew a coil pack...car would not start again. Ran code through OBD using phone and said misfire cycle 3. Had car towed home...changed coil pack and spark plug and car still won't turn over

Checked fuse for fuel pump and it is fine. Car will crank but will not start.

What am I missing here??

Plugs are fine...no coolant leak or coolant loss, Oil is fine, put in stock mode, no change. Still will crank but won't turn over. Sounds like fuel pump is priming also

Not now but I did when I was waiting for tow truck a little
Saw a similar situation. What *****2.0 suggested is the route to figure out why it won't start.

However, I am sure you are wondering what would cause the situation above and lead to the relays going bad. Two ways to look at it. Relay went first and above senario. Or something caused the relay to go bad and then we have the above scenario.
 

Renner

Go Kart Champion
All of the injectors will not go at once. Hell, two could go at the same time and the car would still run. Bearly, but it would. Clearly if the car is not attempting to start at all there is a different issue.



You need fuel, air and ignition to make a car run.



-He said the spark plugs looked normal, so that shouldn't be the problem. Once again, if they were, all 4 won't break at the same time. Same thing with the coil packs.

-Air is a pretty simple one. As long as there are no blockages you shouldn't have an issue.

-Fuel would probably be the issue here. I don't think it's a stuck injector problem. If it was, they stick open and you would probably have a cylinder deactivation code. AND the car would smell terrible like fuel, but would still run. I would assume you aren't getting power to one of the fuel pumps, based off the car not starting at all and the code for the relays.

-My first step would be to take a volt meter to the intank pump and see if it's getting voltage. It most likely doesn't have voltage with just the key on, but should while you are cranking or sometime before/after. Either way, you should see voltage there.

-If no voltage, test the relay. But for 10 bucks it may be easier just to pick one up. You may even be able to swap one of the other relays (after-run pump maybe?) into the fuel pump spot to test that. If nothing there, check the ECU relay or whatever the other code was for. You could just jump power to power for this as well to get power to the pump/ecu/wehatever.

-Nothing there? Go oldschool and pull a plug, leave it attached to the coilpack and the coilpack hooked up, touch the plug against the valve cover and have someone crank the car and see if the plug is getting spark. If it's not, it may be an ECU problem.

-Somewhere in between any of this or at the end, have someone crank the car and spray carb cleaner into the air filter. If it's getting spark and sucking in air, but getting no fuel, the carb cleaner should be enough to get it to start/studder and let you know you have a bigger fuel problem.



That's just the route I would take, but guaranteed it would find your issue.


Thanks for the solid input. I will take these steps and see where it leads
 

Renner

Go Kart Champion
Saw a similar situation. What *****2.0 suggested is the route to figure out why it won't start.



However, I am sure you are wondering what would cause the situation above and lead to the relays going bad. Two ways to look at it. Relay went first and above senario. Or something caused the relay to go bad and then we have the above scenario.


Yes...it's not just figuring out the problem but why it happened also. If I can get it running and to a shop I will be happy to pay for diagnostic just don't want to drop another $180 on tow fee
 

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Saw a similar situation. What *****2.0 suggested is the route to figure out why it won't start.

However, I am sure you are wondering what would cause the situation above and lead to the relays going bad. Two ways to look at it. Relay went first and above senario. Or something caused the relay to go bad and then we have the above scenario.

I've seen weird things from low voltage. Granted, while the car is running the alternator should be producing enough to keep you at a decent voltage (14.x is optimal, high 13's is still reasonable...I run a tiny 16 pound battery and have a hidden volt gauge to keep an eye on it and my voltage is usually only around 13.8 with the car running). Most of your codes were recorded at 11.x or 12.x volts, which would make me think they popped up once the car stopped running.

Maybe the weak battery could have been stressing the electronics and made the relay go? Maybe the relay just shit the bed? How many miles? Maybe you have a short somewhere?

There are a dozen ways how it could have broke. The first step is to find out what is actually not working which is not letting the car start. From there you can investigate more to find out why the part failed (if it's something electronic related like a relay). If it's just a pump/injector failure I really don't think any failure analysis needs to be done, just change the part and move on.
 

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
Car has 54k with k04 installed and flashed last week. And yah I guess if it is a pump just replace it and move on

Just an option, but did you try unplugging the MAF and seeing if it started? Maybe you blew a hose off somewhere or something. Could be plausible since the K04 was just installed.

I doubt it, but it's an option. Even if none of the intercooler hoses were hooked up you should still be able to get it to start. Worth a shot though as it takes a second to unplug it and give it a try.
 

Renner

Go Kart Champion
Just an option, but did you try unplugging the MAF and seeing if it started? Maybe you blew a hose off somewhere or something. Could be plausible since the K04 was just installed.



I doubt it, but it's an option. Even if none of the intercooler hoses were hooked up you should still be able to get it to start. Worth a shot though as it takes a second to unplug it and give it a try.


Yah I tried that also last night...also checked all IC hoses from recent install...all tight and locked down
 

Sspcivic31

Drag Race Newbie
Havevyou triedbto run any of the engine tests by hey vcds? You can primebtheblpfp turn on all the injectors etc
 
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