I just don't get it. My car turns over like normal but doesn't start... I KNOW! LET'S CHANGE THE BATTERY! It's like watching a woman standing on the side of the road with her hood open looking at the engine like "yep, it's there, what could the problem be?"
All of the injectors will not go at once. Hell, two could go at the same time and the car would still run. Bearly, but it would. Clearly if the car is not attempting to start at all there is a different issue.
You need fuel, air and ignition to make a car run.
-He said the spark plugs looked normal, so that shouldn't be the problem. Once again, if they were, all 4 won't break at the same time. Same thing with the coil packs.
-Air is a pretty simple one. As long as there are no blockages you shouldn't have an issue.
-Fuel would probably be the issue here. I don't think it's a stuck injector problem. If it was, they stick open and you would probably have a cylinder deactivation code. AND the car would smell terrible like fuel, but would still run. I would assume you aren't getting power to one of the fuel pumps, based off the car not starting at all and the code for the relays.
-My first step would be to take a volt meter to the intank pump and see if it's getting voltage. It most likely doesn't have voltage with just the key on, but should while you are cranking or sometime before/after. Either way, you should see voltage there.
-If no voltage, test the relay. But for 10 bucks it may be easier just to pick one up. You may even be able to swap one of the other relays (after-run pump maybe?) into the fuel pump spot to test that. If nothing there, check the ECU relay or whatever the other code was for. You could just jump power to power for this as well to get power to the pump/ecu/wehatever.
-Nothing there? Go oldschool and pull a plug, leave it attached to the coilpack and the coilpack hooked up, touch the plug against the valve cover and have someone crank the car and see if the plug is getting spark. If it's not, it may be an ECU problem.
-Somewhere in between any of this or at the end, have someone crank the car and spray carb cleaner into the air filter. If it's getting spark and sucking in air, but getting no fuel, the carb cleaner should be enough to get it to start/studder and let you know you have a bigger fuel problem.
That's just the route I would take, but guaranteed it would find your issue.
Was on the highway going 65mph and car shot out a cloud of white smoke....and began to stutter, then got flashing CEL. Pulled over and shut car off thinking I blew a coil pack...car would not start again. Ran code through OBD using phone and said misfire cycle 3. Had car towed home...changed coil pack and spark plug and car still won't turn over
Checked fuse for fuel pump and it is fine. Car will crank but will not start.
What am I missing here??
Plugs are fine...no coolant leak or coolant loss, Oil is fine, put in stock mode, no change. Still will crank but won't turn over. Sounds like fuel pump is priming also
Saw a similar situation. What *****2.0 suggested is the route to figure out why it won't start.Not now but I did when I was waiting for tow truck a little
All of the injectors will not go at once. Hell, two could go at the same time and the car would still run. Bearly, but it would. Clearly if the car is not attempting to start at all there is a different issue.
You need fuel, air and ignition to make a car run.
-He said the spark plugs looked normal, so that shouldn't be the problem. Once again, if they were, all 4 won't break at the same time. Same thing with the coil packs.
-Air is a pretty simple one. As long as there are no blockages you shouldn't have an issue.
-Fuel would probably be the issue here. I don't think it's a stuck injector problem. If it was, they stick open and you would probably have a cylinder deactivation code. AND the car would smell terrible like fuel, but would still run. I would assume you aren't getting power to one of the fuel pumps, based off the car not starting at all and the code for the relays.
-My first step would be to take a volt meter to the intank pump and see if it's getting voltage. It most likely doesn't have voltage with just the key on, but should while you are cranking or sometime before/after. Either way, you should see voltage there.
-If no voltage, test the relay. But for 10 bucks it may be easier just to pick one up. You may even be able to swap one of the other relays (after-run pump maybe?) into the fuel pump spot to test that. If nothing there, check the ECU relay or whatever the other code was for. You could just jump power to power for this as well to get power to the pump/ecu/wehatever.
-Nothing there? Go oldschool and pull a plug, leave it attached to the coilpack and the coilpack hooked up, touch the plug against the valve cover and have someone crank the car and see if the plug is getting spark. If it's not, it may be an ECU problem.
-Somewhere in between any of this or at the end, have someone crank the car and spray carb cleaner into the air filter. If it's getting spark and sucking in air, but getting no fuel, the carb cleaner should be enough to get it to start/studder and let you know you have a bigger fuel problem.
That's just the route I would take, but guaranteed it would find your issue.
Saw a similar situation. What *****2.0 suggested is the route to figure out why it won't start.
However, I am sure you are wondering what would cause the situation above and lead to the relays going bad. Two ways to look at it. Relay went first and above senario. Or something caused the relay to go bad and then we have the above scenario.
Saw a similar situation. What *****2.0 suggested is the route to figure out why it won't start.
However, I am sure you are wondering what would cause the situation above and lead to the relays going bad. Two ways to look at it. Relay went first and above senario. Or something caused the relay to go bad and then we have the above scenario.
I If it's just a pump/injector failure I really don't think any failure analysis needs to be done, just change the part and move on.
Car has 54k with k04 installed and flashed last week. And yah I guess if it is a pump just replace it and move on
Just an option, but did you try unplugging the MAF and seeing if it started? Maybe you blew a hose off somewhere or something. Could be plausible since the K04 was just installed.
I doubt it, but it's an option. Even if none of the intercooler hoses were hooked up you should still be able to get it to start. Worth a shot though as it takes a second to unplug it and give it a try.
Havevyou triedbto run any of the engine tests by hey vcds? You can primebtheblpfp turn on all the injectors etc