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What did you do to your MK6 2.5 today?

W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
Naffy said:
Over the weekend I installed the IE Sri. Today during my lunch break I gave it the proper tune..wow does it make a huge difference. Also welcoming the new noises from up front. :)
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Ok. I am trying to figure out what the barb fitting on the IE intake manifold is for. In the install instructions it is for the vacuum line that connects in between the fuel line and evap line. On my car this line does not go to the intake manifold. It goes to the vacuum pump. Did you have to use any of the barb fittings when you installed yours?
 
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M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
Wascally Wabbit said:
Ok. I am trying to figure out what the barb fitting on the IE intake manifold is for. In the install instructions it is for the vacuum line that connects in between the fuel line and evap line. On my car this line does not go to the intake manifold. It goes to the vacuum pump. Did you have to use any of the barb fittings when you installed yours?
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You can use the large barb for the catch can.
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
Wascally Wabbit said:
Catch can? You mean instead of venting the catch can to atm run a line to the intake manifold. Is there any benefit to that?
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...just saying, that's what I've saw on a MK5 Rabbit running the IE SRI. He been running the original Valve Cover which houses the original Air/Oil Seperator and Catch Can in series for several years now, I wonder what it looks like inside the SRI, should be clean as a whistle if both system work.
 
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W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
MLue1 said:
...just saying, that's what I've saw on a MK5 Rabbit running the IE SRI. He been running the original Valve Cover which houses the original Air/Oil Seperator and Catch Can in series for several years now, I wonder what it looks like inside the SRI, should be clean as a whistle if both system work.
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Should be pretty clean but I think if you are running a line from the valve cover to the intake even with the catch can you will get some oil in there from the vapor. I notice mine still had a sheen on the outlet tube going into the intake from the catch can. So far so good venting the valve cover to atm through the catch can. No codes or anything after removing the pcv. I am supposed to get my intake back from powder coat tomorrow, so maybe Saturday I can get it all together and install stage 2. I may run stage 1 for a bit to see if it is really necessary to upgrade.
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
WW yu da Man !!! :thumbup: Only a few lines but still the best documentation on open Catch Can on the 2.5, you simply can't find the info anywhere. All the experts on Vortex but non ever give details.

Would be interesting to see the dyno graphs with the SRI and Stage1, I suspect that it may all you need as it is has the optimized ignition advance curve.

Saturday get ready to put the memories of the dirty little TDI to rest.
 
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W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
https://youtu.be/BoJny1fMexQ

This guy goes through his whole install. I am setup the same way but I am not venting the oil filter breather to the catch can (still running to the CAI) but I think it's probably the ideal setup to vent them both to the can. I didn't want to shell out for another catch can. It's kind of a long video but skip to the end he shows the hole setup in detail. He uses the IM barb (where the hose from the pcv attached) to run his brakes. I just capped it and its fine. I see no reason why this setup wouldn't work with the stock valve cover as well. I have heard people who vent their pcv to atm on the 1.8L with no issues.
 
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v1nn1e

v1nn1e

Go Kart Newbie
Rickybobbi said:
No. I honestly have no time. Brought my son home, he's 9 weeks old. With him and work...im just driving it.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
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Looking into this item,
Dorman 917-064 PCV Diaphragm Repair Kit for Volkswagen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFJT6AE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I had the same issue for awhile, I cleaned my throttle body and map sensor, along with said item, its been a week, the code hasn't come back.

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
v1nn1e said:
Looking into this item,
Dorman 917-064 PCV Diaphragm Repair Kit for Volkswagen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFJT6AE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I had the same issue for awhile, I cleaned my throttle body and map sensor, along with said item, its been a week, the code hasn't come back.

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk
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Good One ! I replaced this part last year as part of general maintainance, my diaphragm was still intact but starting to get hard. Te only thing of note was I found the spring in the kit too strong in comparison with the old one, so I reused the original spring.

Here is a Youtube Video on how to do the Remove and Replace.
https://youtu.be/ohcf5Yk5r00

Here is the PCV Diaphragm at WrenchMonkey.CA
https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/auto-parts/volkswagen/golf/2010/pcv-valve-diaphragm/

Here is the PCV Diaphragm at AutoPartsWay.CA
https://www.autopartsway.ca/partlis...tion-system/pcv-valve-diaphragm/pagenum1/tabs
 
W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
I relaced this a couple months back as well. Be damn carefull you don't break a tab replacing it or you'll be investing in a new valve cover. VW never meant for this to be a replaceable part so they could sell you the whole valve cover when the pcv went south. That's why the kit comes with a new cap because more than likely you'll bust it taking it off which is fine. It's the tabs on the valve cover you have to watch.

For me it was the throttle body that was causing the CEL. I replaced the pcv, map, evap purge and the codes still persisted. Gave the throttle body a good cleaning and it went away. The throttle body didn't even look that dirty.

Without a catch can you might as well get used to cleaning the intake and throttle body regularly. Or don't get on the throttle. If you drive like an old lady you probably will be fine but when you get on the gas the pcv opens up more and blow by will get through. In 5k I have pulled about a half a cup of oily water out of the catch can and it is mainly oil. This is why I was so set on the IE valve cover. No more connnection to the intake maifold. Problem solved.
 
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v1nn1e

v1nn1e

Go Kart Newbie
I actually reused the original cover, didn't break it obviously. Then replaced the diaphragm and the spring. The old diaphragm had a tear, which was causing the oil to get into the intake manifold, and map sensor.

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk
 
W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
v1nn1e said:
I actually reused the original cover, didn't break it obviously. Then replaced the diaphragm and the spring. The old diaphragm had a tear, which was causing the oil to get into the intake manifold, and map sensor.

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Well more oil than usual anyway.
 
N

Naffy

Passed Driver's Ed
Thanks! It definitely sounds awesome and feels even better :)

Yes, I went stage 2 tune as well!

And for the vacuum line all I used was the large barbed fitting to a catch can. There was nothing else going to manifold on the OE one for me but YMMV.

Also, I hacked up a USP intake I had previously. With the change of the throttle body position there was no easy way of making that fit with my limited tools. I'll also prevent hydrolock later anyway, as it is now basically a few inches of that intake piping directly to the Bay in front of the battery and fuse box. If someone could tell me best way to link photos I'll post my setup!
 
W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
I know exactly what you're talking about as I have the same intake. I am going to keep it in the same spot though. I bought another silicon coupler and am just going to take out a section the same length as the difference between the old intake and the new. Should work in theory. Hydrolock is not reality a concern as I live in So. Cal. In really you would have to be driving in water half a few inches deeper than the bottom of your door. That's a lot of water.
 
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