1ashchuckton
Autocross Champion
Thanks for the reply. I think I'll be tackling this in the near future.
6
What did you do to your MK6 today?
- Thread starter LightningRhod
- Start date
Cole2999
Autocross Champion
Let's play my favorite game. It's called "What's that clunking sound?" Today's mystery noise:
I'll give ya a minute...
For all those who said engine mounts, you're right! My first thought was engine mount but uhhh... Didn't expect this tbh:
Two of the three bolts are missing. But wait, there's more!
The whole mount is clocked about 15° out.
Called my mechanic, hopefully I can get it in ASAP because I'm not driving it. Shit, I'm scared it's gonna fail just sitting there. I'll have them check every bolt on all 3 mounts and torque any that are out, but I used all new hardware so none should need replacing.
I'll give ya a minute...
For all those who said engine mounts, you're right! My first thought was engine mount but uhhh... Didn't expect this tbh:
Two of the three bolts are missing. But wait, there's more!
The whole mount is clocked about 15° out.
Called my mechanic, hopefully I can get it in ASAP because I'm not driving it. Shit, I'm scared it's gonna fail just sitting there. I'll have them check every bolt on all 3 mounts and torque any that are out, but I used all new hardware so none should need replacing.
jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
Holy shit, hope you don't ever go back to the shop that worked on it recently and forgot them. Could have caused a ton of damage
Cole2999
Autocross Champion
Linked the wrong thing lol, correct video is in. Also I don't think it was the shop because there's no reason they should've unbolted the mounts at any point. It's very likely I snugged them and intended to have the shop torque them down but neglected to tell them. I definitely installed them though. I suppose I'll find a sheared bolt in the frame rail, which is why I'm gonna let them take care of it.
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supreme_gti
Go Kart Champion
woah.... thank god you found this fault... second, tell the shop that LAST worked on your car (I write it down in my notes so I'm not breaking my brain trying to remember) about this and have them buy you NEW engine mount and hardware... this is unacceptable... just woah... THANK THE CAR GODS!!!
Ok, so not the shop's fault, but still, the shop should be catching these things regardless. the motor mounts on the mk6's are exposed to the human eye... easy to catch by just anyone looking under the hood.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
This has inspired me to check my mount torques this weekend. LOL
This (and my increasing age) is part of the reason I have started writing out a checklist on larger projects. I still do a verbal one after simple stuff like an oil change as well. Just talking to myself "Oil is in, drain plug torqued (if extractor wasn't used and was removed), filter replaced and housing torqued......"
This (and my increasing age) is part of the reason I have started writing out a checklist on larger projects. I still do a verbal one after simple stuff like an oil change as well. Just talking to myself "Oil is in, drain plug torqued (if extractor wasn't used and was removed), filter replaced and housing torqued......"
speeding_ant
Go Kart Newbie
Suspension refreshed with a very subtle drop. DCC shocks are a pain. Spent a while recalibrating things. DCC controller for the new springs and shocks, headlight levelling, steering angle sensor... drives nicely now though!
spacecity.gti
Sortaflush
The engine mounts are torqued then given an extra 90° turn since they're stretch bolts. Not sure how that works with you trying to check the torque.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Set my torque wrench to a little over the base spec, if it's at least that it means they aren't about to fall out?
I was just making a reference to having them fly out of the holes, not to check that the torque was "accurate" with the 90degree additional turn which is impossible.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
So yesterday I changed my trans fluid AGAIN not by choice but because the magnetic ECS plugs I got the first time I did it last year were leaking. They were leaking a little bit since I did the change last year but more of seeping really. After I changed the fluid in April they were full on leaking. This is my undershield after 5 laps on track, sitting in the driveway for 2 months and about 90 miles of street driving.
The good news is I had to reuse the plugs on the bevel box and rear diff (ordered new washers but the washers on the oem plugs are non-removable, I'm going with 034 magnetic plugs next time and due to track use will probably be doing that next year) and they are both dry. So relived, changing the bevel box fluid is a pain.
The ECS trans fill and drain pluigs came with washers, but they were 27mm washers and the plugs are 22mm. The first change I just didn't use them (factory doesn't use washers) and as I said they seeped. So when I changed fluid again in April I ordered some washers from FCP but when I went to install they were wrong size too so I put the ECS ones on since they came with them right?......and see above, leaked like a mother.
So this time I ordered copper 22mm sealing washers from McMaster, they fit perfectly so let's cross our fingers.
On an aside, I was thinking about those metal shavings I found at the change. This time the fill plug magnet was clean and the drain plug magnet only had a thin layer. So hopefully the rest washed out with the fluid dump (another reason I spent $60 more dollars for new fluid instead of reusing the fluid with only 90 miles on it) and it's pretty clean in there. But I was thinking, I didn't measure the fluid that came out last time and while some did leak out it wasn't like it was empty or even super low, so having that much damage would be odd. But what I did think about was I used MOTUL in the first change which states it is GL4 / GL5. I know the trans calls for only GL4 and I am wondering if that was the issue. The AMSOIL I put in last time and this time is 100% GL4 only.
The only other thing I can think of is the torque, now there are two torque specs listed with the difference being the head style of the bolt; multi-point or hex. I am 99% sure my OEM plugs were the hex I need to find them in my garage to check but 99%. So I am using that spec which is 30nm, but the ECS plugs are standard 17mm socket although they mention replacing the allen (hex) style so......... Since I was using washers that would spread the load more evenly (and because I left my small torque wrench at home, doing the service at my shop on my lunch and had to borrow a torque wrench that only went down to 25ft lbs) I went to 35nm this time.
Oh, and also fun....while I had it on the lift and at eye level........I saw rust creeping out from under the side skirt on the driver lower quarter panel........the part showing now does not look bad and I can easily remove it and treat the area.........but I am now really worried about what it looks like underneath. So that is a project for next weekend...........
The good news is I had to reuse the plugs on the bevel box and rear diff (ordered new washers but the washers on the oem plugs are non-removable, I'm going with 034 magnetic plugs next time and due to track use will probably be doing that next year) and they are both dry. So relived, changing the bevel box fluid is a pain.
The ECS trans fill and drain pluigs came with washers, but they were 27mm washers and the plugs are 22mm. The first change I just didn't use them (factory doesn't use washers) and as I said they seeped. So when I changed fluid again in April I ordered some washers from FCP but when I went to install they were wrong size too so I put the ECS ones on since they came with them right?......and see above, leaked like a mother.
So this time I ordered copper 22mm sealing washers from McMaster, they fit perfectly so let's cross our fingers.
On an aside, I was thinking about those metal shavings I found at the change. This time the fill plug magnet was clean and the drain plug magnet only had a thin layer. So hopefully the rest washed out with the fluid dump (another reason I spent $60 more dollars for new fluid instead of reusing the fluid with only 90 miles on it) and it's pretty clean in there. But I was thinking, I didn't measure the fluid that came out last time and while some did leak out it wasn't like it was empty or even super low, so having that much damage would be odd. But what I did think about was I used MOTUL in the first change which states it is GL4 / GL5. I know the trans calls for only GL4 and I am wondering if that was the issue. The AMSOIL I put in last time and this time is 100% GL4 only.
The only other thing I can think of is the torque, now there are two torque specs listed with the difference being the head style of the bolt; multi-point or hex. I am 99% sure my OEM plugs were the hex I need to find them in my garage to check but 99%. So I am using that spec which is 30nm, but the ECS plugs are standard 17mm socket although they mention replacing the allen (hex) style so......... Since I was using washers that would spread the load more evenly (and because I left my small torque wrench at home, doing the service at my shop on my lunch and had to borrow a torque wrench that only went down to 25ft lbs) I went to 35nm this time.
Oh, and also fun....while I had it on the lift and at eye level........I saw rust creeping out from under the side skirt on the driver lower quarter panel........the part showing now does not look bad and I can easily remove it and treat the area.........but I am now really worried about what it looks like underneath. So that is a project for next weekend...........
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jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
Dimple magnetic plugs are much higher quality than 034So yesterday I changed my trans fluid AGAIN not by choice but because the magnetic ECS plugs I got the first time I did it last year were leaking. They were leaking a little bit since I did the change last year but more of seeping really. After I changed the fluid in April they were full on leaking. This is my undershield after 5 laps on track, sitting in the driveway for 2 months and about 90 miles of street driving.
The good news is I had to reuse the plugs on the bevel box and rear diff (ordered new washers but the washers on the oem plugs are non-removable, I'm going with 034 magnetic plugs next time and due to track use will probably be doing that next year) and they are both dry. So relived, changing the bevel box fluid is a pain.
The ECS trans fill and drain pluigs came with washers, but they were 27mm washers and the plugs are 22mm. The first change I just didn't use them (factory doesn't use washers) and as I said they seeped. So when I changed fluid again in April I ordered some washers from FCP but when I went to install they were wrong size too so I put the ECS ones on since they came with them right?......and see above, leaked like a mother.
So this time I ordered copper 22mm sealing washers from McMaster, they fit perfectly so let's cross our fingers.
The only other thing I can think of is the torque, now there are two torque specs listed with the difference being the head style of the bolt; multi-point or hex. I am 99% sure my OEM plugs were the hex I need to find them in my garage to check but 99%. So I am using that spec which is 30nm, but the ECS plugs are standard 17mm socket although they mention replacing the allen (hex) style so......... Since I was using washers that would spread the load more evenly (and because I left my small torque wrench at home, doing the service at my shop on my lunch and had to borrow a torque wrench that only went down to 25ft lbs) I went to 35nm this time.
Oh, and also fun....while I had it on the lift and at eye level........I saw rust creeping out from under the side skirt on the driver lower quarter panel........the part showing now does not look bad and I can easily remove it and treat the area.........but I am now really worried about what it looks like underneath. So that is a project for next weekend...........
https://drainplugmagnets.com/
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Cool, thanks. I'll reach out to them when I am ready as they don't list anything for the diffs. Will plan to get plugs for the trans at least from them eventually.
mistaleungg
Go Kart Newbie
Second to this!
Mine has been used for 7 years without any leak
Installed gloss black side mirror covers yesterday;
Post in thread 'MK6 GTI OEM+ Build'
https://golfmk6.com/forums/index.php?threads/mk6-gti-oem-build.311722/post-7976231
Post in thread 'MK6 GTI OEM+ Build'
https://golfmk6.com/forums/index.php?threads/mk6-gti-oem-build.311722/post-7976231
spacecity.gti
Sortaflush
Had this lovely experience on my way home from work yesterday. I didn't even see what I hit but I heard a loud bang and pulled off to the side of the road and shut off the car. I'm hoping I acted fast enough to not cause any damage to the engine. Waiting on some parts so I can replace the oil pan. FML.
