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Hesitation w/ Unitronic Stage2

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plac

Guest
So you have a filter on a stick intake right? I remember hearing that these intakes are what Unitronic recommends, despite the fact they swallow a bunch of hot air and for people who know how the system works they understand it's not beneficial to power. I went from a P-Flo to a Carbonio and picked up 9 g/s through the MAF, then to a VWR and the difference was night and day.

did you ever do a review or pics on your VWR intake?
 

MKV727

Go Kart Champion
did you ever do a review or pics on your VWR intake?

It's in my build thread, I'm going to do a proper review by Wednesday.

I have to reset the EMS, do a full maintenance with plugs, OEM rev red coils, Motul oil, fuel filter and a BFI "clean catch" oil separator (aka catch can). I also have an annoying exhaust leak that an incompetent exhaust shop couldn't fix.

I had to cut my BB downpipe to get it to mate to the stock catback, it doesn't fit properly on the APR RSC catback now. The DP doesn't slip into the catback far enough to get a seal, an exhaust shop added some shitty aluminized piping and a cheap ass clamp to extend it for $45, and 5 miles later it's whistling and having the same issue. They said they'll fix it for free but I'm not sure if I want them welding on my BB DP with cheap ass aluminized piping but I'm desperate to have it fixed.

I haven't had a chance to do a lot of WOT runs as I have a slight misfire at upper RPMS at WOT and the car sounds like it has a whistler on my tail pipe. After Wednesday when I have all of the maintenance parts in and my exhaust is fixed I'm going to use fault code erase and let it adapt and take photos of my engine bay and give a review.
 

HK_GTI

Passed Driver's Ed
hi

if it can help , I have similar issues with a Stage 1+ UNI , many hesitations below 3000 rpms , in all gears , DSG mode in D or M . I tried with AWE CCB , MODSHACK and OEM intake and result is the same . I do not have any RPM drops but a lot of hesitation .
My logs show no issue , the VAG diag is perfect , no misfires , car has 18 000 kms on the clock

Uni has my logs and test drives feedback since 3 months now and no solution has been yet found - we could start a Club to discuss about it ....

I am really fed up with the situation as the car is great after 3000 rpms , with sometimes hesiations but running with less efficiency than OEM before ...

if it can help , I do not beleive Intakes are concerned , we all tested many of them
 

PRND[S]

The Lame & The Ludicrous
It is one thing if a tune has a problem with one specific non-OEM intake, but problems with several and the OEM is pretty pathetic.
 

rick1080

New member
There is a fix. I had the exact issue, I contacted uni about this hessitation and tech support made a custom flash file for me and since them it never happened againe
 

carsfeverguy

Go Kart Champion
Will say it again, contact uni and they will help you.
These are are complicated, and uni will help you if you let them help you.

Also, it doesn't help anyone when you have a poor description of your problem...
If you are modded, sorry to tell you but vag com is an essential tool for diagnostics.
 

HK_GTI

Passed Driver's Ed
Thxs Rick , hope they will come back wit a flash file ; they have all in hands since 3 months

same reply as the other thread , feverguy ; contact does not mean results , unfortunatly
 

carsfeverguy

Go Kart Champion
I know I posted most of this in the other thread, but I want to get a point across.

VAG with no codes doesn't mean any issues... You have to run specific readouts of parameters, with precise data-logging "turbo mode" of precise parameters in vagcom which will allow the Unitronic's customer service to figure out what is going on .

So you are telling me that you have done documented pulls, with different parameters, as instructed by Uni??? And have personally sent them the vag com turbo readouts? And have called them every other day to ensure that they are on the ball?

I recall that in one of the threads you posted you mentionned that your local tunner in HongKong was "contacting Uni" for you, and that they had Vagcom, not you...

Don't get me wrong, I understand you have an issue, but you should look into fixing it as opposed as being fed whatever info by your local tunner.
Take things into your hand, log a ticket on the uni's website, and then run logs, and then contact uni with the files, so they can see what is wrong with your car. Then, follow up.

I will tell you that for example, that the symptoms the op described in the other thread :
shifting to fifth and sixth and give it a little throttle, my RPM slightly drops at 3400 RPM back down to 3000-2900 RPM.
IS NOT HESITATION, BUT A SLIPPING CLUTCH --> REALITY CHECK. THE TUNE PUTS TOO MUCH POWER FOR YOUR STOCK CLUTCH!!!:paddle:
The upper gears will slip first, and depending on the weather outside, and how heated the clutch is, this will happen more or less at the beginning. It will eventually get worse as the wear increases. Gotta pay to play

Now because everything on the internet is true, and that the op called it hesitation, it must be hesitation...

If you must know, I had actual hesitation with the Carbonio and Stage 2 Uni.
At first I tried spacers on my carbonio, and other homemade recipies. Then I decided to log everything, send it to UNi, Uni looked into it, they realized what was happenning, I was the first one with a new version of the software which rectified the hesitation. I did my part, and so did they.

After the reflash, my car is a beast for a stage 2. At the wheels: 295 torque and 268 hp. With a conservative 15% drivetrain loss that's more like 308hp and 340 torque at the crank :D

IMG_3832 by tudorior, on Flickr

I hope this issue will be resolved for you, but you have to help yourself. Complaining on the board and will probably not fix your car. Talk to the experts.

Because of this thread there must be quite a few people who think that The Unitronic tune has hesitation issues... which it does not. :fighting0030:
 

HK_GTI

Passed Driver's Ed
noted
we have made 2 logs , doing what UNI requested from us ; VAG + logs sent to John and his team .
I am not a mechanic and I am ready to pay the price to have a car running smoothly ; I went 6 times to the dealer ; 2 logs , 2 checks + VAG , 2 Intakes change , all these being requested by UNI and I remind you in 3 months ; as you said , I think I have pretty done my side

Sliiping clutch , no , I do not think so , I had also a DSG remap by Uni , and that would be a big mess that the Remap did the car working less than OEM

that is rteally good for you that they found the solution , but I am only stage1+ and they don't
Anyway , they always replied to my requests and the dealers' logs sending

my replies are a feedback of my experience , not a conclusion on UNI products ; presently , they don't work on my car , I have issues with different set-ups . Nothing else
 

carsfeverguy

Go Kart Champion
Ok, that sounds like you did do your part. I would still call them repeatedly to check on progress, but that's just me.

For reference, I had no issues with stage 1+ and carbonio, when I had it originally.

I hope this gets fixed soon for you.
 

Arin@APR

GOLFMK7 Official Sponsor
Gtipilot clear all DTCs and all but the cat code should go away. When the car is flashed sometimes it will show soft codes for communication.

Also some times intakes can cause the issues described, my boost was acting up and a small mod cleared it up.

This is completely false. The intake is NOT causing his vehicle to suddenly cut out and is NOT an issue. This clearly looks like a communication issue of some sort as the gauge just drops and EPC/CEL come on as if the engine was turned on and off.



Flash the car back to stock. If that doesn't fix the issue, inspect the ECU for damage and check the vehicle wiring.
 

valj

Ready to race!
Had this cut out issue on Revo Stage 1 together with the High Fuel Rail pressure error when being completely hardware stock.

Flashing to REVO stage 2 of the last revision didn't give out any errors (together with Injen Cal, UR catless downpipe, S3 IC.

I suspect that it could have simply been bad fuel... Who knows.

First of all try changing your gas station of choice, maybe that could solve the problem.
 
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