brobst's road to k04- 13' CSG 6MT

Adjusted short shifter down to 40% reduction front to back and fixed shifter cables. Smooth throws now. No side to side reductions so I don't miss gears.

Took her out for 1000 mile road trip and it was smooth sailing.

Cabin filter changed at 33400. July 5th 2016. Mann cu/cuk/fp 2939

DV+ installed at 33500 miles. The squealing is gone now at high boost.

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Update 2. Neuspeed has agreed to send me a replacement bracket. [emoji106]
Top notch service on SupremePower and Neuspeed part.


Update. Was definitely the bracket.


So we installed my Neuspeed 25mm fsb back in April and everything seemed alright with the installation. The provided torque specs for the fsb brackets with the 13mm bolt seemed a little low, but we followed the instructions and went with it.
Fast forward to July, I am getting a new sound coming from under the car in the suspension area it sounds.

Alright so I got a new noise I am trying to diagnose. It sounds like a popping noise when taking off in first gear engaging the clutch. The popping is frequent and dies down as you get rolling. I have full mounts so I thought it was the mount but another passenger confirmed the strange sound. You do not hear it once rolling in gear above say 10mph. I do not hear it with clutch disengaged and car rolling as well.
I will try and get a video but the exhaust may mask it.
I thought it sounded like spring popping but this is while going straight in takeoff.
I also have alk and sway bars. Maybe this is coming from the endlink?
I know without hearing it you guys can't confirm, but I was just hoping there would be some specific areas I should check which would be associated with take off and not just rolling.

Click to expand...

Someone suggested I check the fsb brackets. When I went to check the torque on the bolts, which is supposed to be 22ft-lbs, the bolt started spinning in which made me think it was loose. However, it hit the point where it seemed to stop tightening before I hit the torque spec. The bolt is not loose, it is just spinning when you tighten it (I forget which term describes this). This is the driver side. I went to check the passenger side and was reluctant to tighten it for fear of the same issue.

The bracket itself has the painted nut at the top section. My best guess is this is where my issue comes from.


So, under harder turns, I can hear this popping noise still. 90 degree Right turns for example.
What I am wondering is what I should do here? Do I replace the bracket? Is this fine unless I am doing hard turns? Only thing supporting the fsb are the endlinks and the brackets right, so I would imagine a bracket breaking off would be bad. But the 13mm hex bolts are not loose at all, they just don't go to the 22ft-lbs. I was really hoping I was done with the subframe dropping at least for the year.


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Bracket replaced, so the fsb is back in business. 33933 miles. No need to drop subframe either. Could reach it once taking off the wheels only.
Pics for comparison of new and bent one.


Still getting the popping sound with some takeoffs from stop so going to check some other suspension parts ugh.

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Turns out popping noise is coming from the 034 dogbone pendulum. Metal bearing area I'm assuming. I'm going to keep it on for now but may go back to the oem one in the future.

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Installed the stainless steel clutch line and removed the clutch delay valve from the master cylinder. Also did full fluid flush of all 4 corners and clutch. Ate 200 fluid.
Clutch engagement feels more linear, most likely dur to removal of the delay valve. Feels more responsive and I feel more comfortable doing faster shifts.
35k miles 09/10/2016


Picture of removed delay valve. Looks like a mini turbo lol.


Turns out friend finally figured out what this thing was. Vibration damper.
https://www.fte-automotive.com/en/products/clutch-hydraulic/vibration-canceler.html

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Rotors were corroded onto the hubs so I couldn't do the pads and rotors yet. Back in the box they go.

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Removed old rotors finally. Needed a good rubber malleting.
Installed tyrolsport stiffening kit, stoptech 309 pads, and slotted rotors. 35.7k miles.



Here are my old rear rotors for comparison. Scary stuff here.
Drivers side rear


Passenger rear



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That's what your rotors look like after only35k miles? Holy crap balls! What happened to them? Or did they break when you were taking them off?

Curious of your impressions on the brake setup as I am probably going with the same setup at some point.

Squashdaddy said:

That's what your rotors look like after only35k miles? Holy crap balls! What happened to them? Or did they break when you were taking them off?

Curious of your impressions on the brake setup as I am probably going with the same setup at some point.

Click to expand...

I have no idea. Michigan winters with minimal driving/braking. Kind of annoyed because vw inspects at 30k service and I feel like the don't even bother to look here. Those rotors were terrible. Groved, wavy, and peeling on the inside as shown in the photos. I need some more time on the brakes before I can review. We did a lot of cleaning up so I have to learn how it feels to properly brake again.
Plus may need to flush again, as pedal has a lot of travel in it right now.

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Update on my brakes. So everything feels good I would say. Stopping is stronger, brakes feel more trustworthy than before.
Turns out I didn't need another flush afterall.
Between rotors, pads, and tyrol kit, about $400 upgrade approximately depending on vendor. Rock auto had good prices.
Very happy with my choice...

Post bedding photos.





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:thumbup:

Wipers october 36.2k miles.
Whiteline front end links installed 36.4k miles.
Reserving post for clutch install and review.

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I have now the 250 mile drive back from the HS Tuning shop and about 200 mixed miles around town. I like the pedal feel. It is pretty similar to my friends Southbend stage 2 daily pedal, maybe even a tad lighter than that one. The revs do more quicker than with the stock dmfw. I am still in the break in period, so I am doing a lot of heat cycling and clutch engagements. Taking off in 1st is a little more touchy than it was with the stock clutch. I need to give it some more throttle to come off the line smoothly. Maybe closer to 1500rpms, where I was doing about 1200rpms stock. Can't wait to open it up. Driving around without boost sucks. about 550 more miles to go. I figure 500 highway and 500 city miles is a good place to start opening up the throttle.

Clutch update: at about 600 miles or so, I felt a difference in the take off engagement. I think that was a sign that the clutch was broken in. It became much more snappy. The rest of the gears felt pretty good still, just the take off changed.

Update2: I am at about 1000 miles total driving. I have done some wot pulls at this point. clutch is holding strong in this colder weather. I am pretty impressed. Still have all the good things to say about revs climbing and higher gears. I like the deceleration chatter a lot. Take off engagement is very snappy. And if you slip the clutch more, you can really feel the car shutter on the disk I am assuming.
Takeoff rpms are probably closer to 1500rpm. Unlike the stock case, I actually have to pay attention during engagements from stop. I think this was a good fit for me, but I do think it could be tedious if I was every stuck in stop and go traffic consistently.

Haven't really had any opportunity to test the differential yet. I had one almost test I think taking off on a rock road. I could hear the rocks slipping out under the car, but I was pulling forward still.

Diff Update: since I got the new tires, I have more traction. I have been looking at open road curves with more power to see if I can feel one of the front wheels slip during the turn. I am sure the diff will become very obvious once the snow hits though. For reference, my tires are now conti dws 06.
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What prompted you to remove the clutch delay valve from the master cylinder? I don't see many doing that. Do you have any more info on it? Also how difficult was it to do so?

jay745 said:

What prompted you to remove the clutch delay valve from the master cylinder? I don't see many doing that. Do you have any more info on it? Also how difficult was it to do so?

Click to expand...

It wasn't the original intention. We were trying to just remove the bleeder block restrictor.
My thought process was if there is a delay at the beginning of the line, simply widening the line at the end can only have so much effect.
So I took it out as an experiment. It is very easy to remove. Has the same nipple end like the clutch line. Just something extra to plug into.
No real info in it and what it looks like on its interior.
This is just my thought process: removing the restrictor allows more fluid flow, removing the delay valve allows fluid response to be faster. So then both methods achieve the same end result: slowing the clutch pedal.

Not sure if related, but my clutch pedal started squeaking lately on engagement. I have a new clutch coming in next week, so I will see if the squeak is fixed.

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:thumbsup:

I'm just going to dump photos here from hs tuning while they do the clutch job.

Nice waiting area for me to sleep.


Trans is off, nice view of the clutch on the car.



Clutch oem



Transmission case opened for the differential install.



Trans all apart


Measuring the preload for the proper shim. About 0.9



Shift forks just chillin


Extra clearance needed for this mfactory brand diff


Pictures of the old clutch. Meh, I guess it was bad.




Close ups


Other part

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