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ECS Magnetic Drain Plug *Problem*

andylaiphoto

andylaiphoto

Go Kart Champion
I just changed my oil two nights ago. I drove to work yesterday and when I was leaving for home I noticed that there was a leak. It was coming from the drain plug area and the leak left a trail of oil about a foot long and 2.5" wide, the parking space is slanted. I when I got home last night I tightened the plug even more and let it sit overnight. This morning there was an oil spot underneath the same area about 3" in diameter and you can see where the oil was building up right under the plug.

When I installed it I used one of the copper washers that it came with. I know that I didn't install it wrong and the plug is as tight as I can get it without fear of stripping it. I'm going to go back and tighten again in a minute to see if that works. But I don't have a torque wrench yet so I don't want to try to go too much tighter on it.

Two questions.
Is the plug just not tight enough?
Could it be defective?
 
GTIProject

GTIProject

Ready to race!
Unfortunately the 2011 2.0's have issues with drain bolts leaking, especially if they are not OE plugs. 2009-2010 had problems with bolts stripping being removed due to paint buildup on the inside of the pan (oil pan was powerdercoated at the factory with the drain bolt installed). As such there was a TSB for removing and re-tapping the threads, or chasing them. Audi/VW also says you need to replace the original drain plug after chasing the threads.

For late 2011 models they cut a relief in the drain bolt threads so that it would not strip out. Problem is - the drain bolt now needs to seal at the face of the bolt instead of through the threads.

The explaination I got from product support regarding how a multi-billion dollar car company has issues with drain bolts, is that the CCTA/CBFA/CAEB motors are designed the have their oil sucked out, rather than drained that the drain bolt was never designed to be removed on a regular basis. I did my 5k service at my shop and sucked the oil out as to prevent such issues.

To OP, try replacing the drain bolt with your original plug and see if it still leaks. Torque spec is 30nm.
 
P

plac

Guest
great news. seriously, as i was thinking of buying one of those. ill stick with OEM.
 
Gti For Me

Gti For Me

Go Kart Champion
I have done 4 oil changes with the magnetic plug with no issues
 
P

plac

Guest
so since you have the copper washers, maybe the aluminum washer kit is the better choice. maybe thats why it comes with ONE vs 10.... the copper washers must be 1/10th as cheap.
 
Gti For Me

Gti For Me

Go Kart Champion
That's what i think he using the wrong washer
 
Deaks2

Deaks2

Ready to race!
What's the technique for sucking the oil out?
GTIProject said:
Unfortunately the 2011 2.0's have issues with drain bolts leaking, especially if they are not OE plugs. 2009-2010 had problems with bolts stripping being removed due to paint buildup on the inside of the pan (oil pan was powerdercoated at the factory with the drain bolt installed). As such there was a TSB for removing and re-tapping the threads, or chasing them. Audi/VW also says you need to replace the original drain plug after chasing the threads.

For late 2011 models they cut a relief in the drain bolt threads so that it would not strip out. Problem is - the drain bolt now needs to seal at the face of the bolt instead of through the threads.

The explaination I got from product support regarding how a multi-billion dollar car company has issues with drain bolts, is that the CCTA/CBFA/CAEB motors are designed the have their oil sucked out, rather than drained that the drain bolt was never designed to be removed on a regular basis. I did my 5k service at my shop and sucked the oil out as to prevent such issues.

To OP, try replacing the drain bolt with your original plug and see if it still leaks. Torque spec is 30nm.
Click to expand...
 
GTIProject

GTIProject

Ready to race!
Remove dipstick, insert oil suck tube, remove oil. We use large industrial grade tools at work, but hand powered or pneumatic extraction devices can be bought for little to no money.
 
JoeVDub

JoeVDub

Go Kart Champion
I have the aluminum washer and have had no problems since I've had my car back in October. Changed the oil at 1k with MOTUL and the ECS plug.

Edit: I'm at 25k miles now and change my oil every 5k.
 
Bender1

Bender1

Banned
GTIProject said:
Remove dipstick, insert oil suck tube, remove oil. We use large industrial grade tools at work, but hand powered or pneumatic extraction devices can be bought for little to no money.
Click to expand...

this doesn't leave junk in the pan?
 
omgturbo!

omgturbo!

Go Kart Champion
well, there should be rather large magnets in the pan. i used to work for mercedes, who have been using the "suck it out" method described above, for many years now. if you were to remove one of their pans (or bmw, or recent audi, etc) they all have very large magnets in the pan already. a 100k service for a benz includes removing the pan and cleaning the magnets. but idk if we have a factory magnet or two in our pans, could someone verify? if not, then i will just get a few magnets and out them on the outside of the pan and leave them for eternity. once on the magnets, the teeny tiny little bits will get stuck to it and never, i repeat NEVER come off, unless the magnet is removed. which will be very hard during any type of driving.
 
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