15k and coolant low

Okay so since I've had this car I have read multiple stories in the water pump failure in these TSI's. Mines a 2014 and just hit 15k. Noticed this morning my low coolant light came on and it was below the minimum line. Took it to VW and they topped it off to see what happens after I drive it and to check in the morning. After it sat for 5hrs it was at the min line again. I swear I can smell coolant but can't see any anywhere. My main question is should I take off my FMIC To avoid warranty problems or not? It shouldn't effect my coolant I would think.

Got a 6hr drive next weekend and really don't wanna have to worry about my car overheating or worse breaking down....

Your water pump is most likely toast. Mine (also a 2014) died at 14k miles just about a month ago. MFI randomly started flipping out and beeping at me with text saying low coolant etc. just as I started accelerating onto a highway. Eventually pulled over and found my coolant level an inch below the "LOW" mark. Decided to gently drive it to my dealership while keeping an eye on the temp gauge (which luckily didn't go above the halfway mark). Confirmed at the dealership my water pump was kaput. Since it was late afternoon the dealership had to hold onto my car overnight to do the repairs. Fun times.

So yeah... have your dealership look over your water pump. Specifically mention the water pump, since it's a very common problem. If you do end up getting it replaced, make sure that the part number on the invoice ends in "BG". The revision that came with my 2014 was "BB" (older).

Yeah I mentioned water pump and he said his tech who has been working on VW for 30yrs said it would've been gone by now if it was my water pump...

U said the car sat for 5 hrs not driven and it was low? Water pumps usually leak with the car running not sitting still not running. Did u ask the tech if he bleed the coolant system? If not when the coolant gets low air gets in the system and if he just tipped it off then as u drive it the air worked its way out and made the coolant drop back down. When bleeding you have to let run at idle with no ac on and the blower turned to cold until the fans come on and t stat opens up. After that u then switch climate to heat on full blower speed to also bleed the heater core. Ask your tech if he just topped off or actually did a diagnostic. Diagnotic would include filling coolant pressure check system if no leaks then bleed. If he didn't do these steps then he didn't really do anything other then top of exp tank which you could have done yourself. If he didn't, u should ask why they didn't do this!

No the service manager just topped it off as I stood there. Started the car and it dropped a little as well. Then once the car cooled it went to the minimum line...

Ok so basically no check for a leak or coolant bleed. Maybe try another dealer or ask for a real mechanic when u go back. You told them your coolant is low and all they did was top it off and said maybe there's a leak or maybe the water pump is bad?! I'd get it checked before you have problems

Yeah basically...after I call them today and if I don't get any better help I'll have to try the other dealer an hr away [emoji37]

Man just tell them the deal. That's there job you shouldn't be inconvenienced because the mechanic is either lazy or dumb. I'm just saying if u think you have a potential leak you should have it fixed sooner then later. I understand your frustration. Good luck

They took it in and are gonna look at it and see what's the problem.

Ok good post back to let us know the results!

my water pump took crap when my car was bone stock, fmic does nothing to the pump itself.

07stuntin6r said:

Yeah I mentioned water pump and he said his tech who has been working on VW for 30yrs said it would've been gone by now if it was my water pump...

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Not always true. I'm on my fourth water pump, all the others were diagnosed as bad before they shit the bed. Symptoms were consistently weird squealing from engine bay, and continually low coolant, all were replaced under warranty. All three were confirmed as BAD via a pressure test before all hell broke loose.

07stuntin6r said:

They took it in and are gonna look at it and see what's the problem.

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Tell them you want a pressure test done.

They'll piss, moan, bitch, and bellyache...then say you'll have to pay for the diagnosis if the pressure test doesn't reveal anything, they don't like to do anything that will cost VW money, cause it's easier to do that, than, you know, actually do something.

You get a pressure test done, and it reveals the water pump is ready to shit the bed, their should be NO charge for it.

Jerseynoob said:

Tell them you want a pressure test done.

They'll piss, moan, bitch, and bellyache...then say you'll have to pay for the diagnosis if the pressure test doesn't reveal anything, they don't like to do anything that will cost VW money, cause it's easier to do that, than, you know, actually do something.

You get a pressure test done, and it reveals the water pump is ready to shit the bed, their should be NO charge for it.

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You're talking about a pressure test on new pump before install correct? Or whole system when installed?

Umm both a pressure check takes literally 10 mins With car cold unscrew exp cap screw in adaptor and pump system to a few psi above spec. If pressure drops within 15 mins you have a leak and it should be visible. Sometimes water pumps can slightly leak but should still be visible I find them to leak easier with pressure applied and car running this way they tend to leak more so leak is easier to find. Yes once the part, wether it's the pump hose or whatever, should then be refilled with coolant and same test procedure repeated. With leaks the biggest leak shows first but that doesn't mean it's the only one. The largest leak will leak first. So smaller and more minor leaks will not be found until initial larger leak is repaired. Once problem is found and repaired make sure it is re pressure checked for any other leaks. If all else ok then bleed coolant system and your done. Chilton lists the labor rate for a coolant check at .3 of an hour which means if the labor rate is 100 per hour the nose it should cost is 30 bucks. At my shop I charge 35 for coolant system check this includes topping and bleeding coolant system, pressure checking system, diagnosing the leak, telling customer the problem and giving estimate for the repair