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TSI Timing issue. Am I screwed?

Gkivoo

Ready to race!
Hey guys,

I need some help here... it’s a P0016 code along with others and after a lot of research and phone calls to some mechanics I’m pressed to make a decision and am in need for guidance.

Some background info on the car itself. It’s a 2012 (Build date 01/2012) GTI CBFA code motor with 68k miles. All maintenance done by me, recently did carbon cleaning, new injectors, R8 coilpacks, and spark plugs. Just did an oil change 3 days ago.

Car has an APR stage 2 tune with a turboback exhaust and an ECS intake. That’s about it as far as engine mods go.

Yesterday I took a 30 mile drive out and when I got to my destination hit a pretty harsh bump in the parking lot. Nothing crazy, just hit the jack point on the passenger side... parked the car and when I started it back up a few minutes after it took a while to actually start and when it finally did it ran like crap. Check engine light flashing and car sputtering bad at idle. Checked under the car, all is good. Checked coil packs, all in place. Tried moving my car to a different part of the lot to take a better look and as I’m driving away I noticed it ran fine at higher RPMs so I decided to try and make it home. I made it 30 miles. Turned the car off and tried starting it again. Same thing.

Codes on my OBDII scanner read P0016, P0300, and P0303. Tried swapping coil packs around, same thing.

Called up my mechanic, tells me tensioner failed and timing is off and warned me not to start or drive the car. VW said the same thing and that I’ll probably need a new motor.

Either way both places told me at best case scenario this will be a VERY expensive repair.

I called VW corporate customer service and they said maybe depending on what it is and being only 6 months and 8k miles out of powertrain warranty they may be able to cover partial costs of the work as the part is known to fail. My question now is do I take it to them and pay the 150 initial diagnostic fee and perhaps more labor for opening up the motor and diagnosing more in hopes that they’ll partially cover the work to repair? Do I try and sell the car as is and hope to get enough money to pay off the remaining balance on my car loan? I don’t know where to tow the car, what to do with it, how to potentially diagnose and explore other possible issues on my own.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance to anyone who chimes in!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

NYCSuits

Go Kart Champion
From the Timing Chain Thread I posted this today...

Figured I'd post this here...my GTI (Build date 12/11) had the updated chain tensioner from the factory, just under 135k miles, and on 02/14 my car shutoff under light throttle and threw a P0341 - Cam position sensor. I had the car towed to the dealership as a precaution but I was almost 100% certain I needed a new cam position sensor and it wasn't a timing issue.

It was a timing issue. The service tech tested the camshaft sensor/signal and it was operating as it should. After a 3 hour partial teardown, compression test, and diagnosis...the tensioner did not fail but the chain was stretched to the point it started causing a timing issue. Long story short...everything related to the timing needs to be replaced (chains, guides, tensioner,), along with the intake camshaft which alone is almost a $760 part at the dealer - 06H109021K. The service tech recommended replacing the intake camshaft while everything is apart because it's a variable timing camshaft and could've experienced wear on the lobes as the timing came out of spec over time and at 135k miles, it was better to be safe than sorry. Otherwise, there was a possibility the timing would still be off if the camshaft wasn't replaced.

I was at a loss and devastated but the VW service guy working on my car put me at ease because he definitely knew what he was talking about and answered all my questions. I knew that stretched timing chains were an issue on the TSI but I thought it came down to maintenance (I do my oil changes every 4k-5k since new). The stretched timing chain is such an issue that they keep all of the parts IN STOCK at the dealership. They also told me I was lucky to have the updated tensioner because that kept the timing from experiencing a complete failure with bent valves, requiring a complete top end rebuild.

Situation sucks but at least I have a loaner from the dealership for the next few days and don't have to pay for a rental (my work commute is 140 miles roundtrip each day). I'll post the end result of the service either Monday or Tuesday evening.

Update

Just received my car from the dealer and total cost after tax was over $3k. Dealer prices for parts were crazy but I had no choice to go the dealer route because my car broke down 80 miles from where I live. I probably could've saved $300-$400 in parts BUT the dealership did provide me a nearly new Jetta loaner for 7 days, which basically offset the cost because I would've needed to rent a car during the down time since I drive 160 miles to and from work each day.

As for the car, the engine is noticeably more responsive. Especially when you tip into the throttle in 5th and 6h gear. It's hard to explain but the engine feels tighter and sounds different as well. My tuned ECU wasn't touch which was a fear I had but it's definitely there.

From the service receipt:

"Towed in, customer stated vehicle has a cam position sensor code and vehicle will run but stalls out...Confirmed code, car running rough, scanned for faults, had timing faults when checked timing with scan tool, was at edge of spec 5 was at 4.38, checked cam actuator for damage none found, timing chain stretched, replaced intake cam and timing chains, tensioner and replaced guided"
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
Hey guys,

I need some help here... it’s a P0016 code along with others and after a lot of research and phone calls to some mechanics I’m pressed to make a decision and am in need for guidance.

Some background info on the car itself. It’s a 2012 (Build date 01/2012) GTI CBFA code motor with 68k miles. All maintenance done by me, recently did carbon cleaning, new injectors, R8 coilpacks, and spark plugs. Just did an oil change 3 days ago.

Car has an APR stage 2 tune with a turboback exhaust and an ECS intake. That’s about it as far as engine mods go.

Yesterday I took a 30 mile drive out and when I got to my destination hit a pretty harsh bump in the parking lot. Nothing crazy, just hit the jack point on the passenger side... parked the car and when I started it back up a few minutes after it took a while to actually start and when it finally did it ran like crap. Check engine light flashing and car sputtering bad at idle. Checked under the car, all is good. Checked coil packs, all in place. Tried moving my car to a different part of the lot to take a better look and as I’m driving away I noticed it ran fine at higher RPMs so I decided to try and make it home. I made it 30 miles. Turned the car off and tried starting it again. Same thing.

Codes on my OBDII scanner read P0016, P0300, and P0303. Tried swapping coil packs around, same thing.

Called up my mechanic, tells me tensioner failed and timing is off and warned me not to start or drive the car. VW said the same thing and that I’ll probably need a new motor.

Either way both places told me at best case scenario this will be a VERY expensive repair.

I called VW corporate customer service and they said maybe depending on what it is and being only 6 months and 8k miles out of powertrain warranty they may be able to cover partial costs of the work as the part is known to fail. My question now is do I take it to them and pay the 150 initial diagnostic fee and perhaps more labor for opening up the motor and diagnosing more in hopes that they’ll partially cover the work to repair? Do I try and sell the car as is and hope to get enough money to pay off the remaining balance on my car loan? I don’t know where to tow the car, what to do with it, how to potentially diagnose and explore other possible issues on my own.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance to anyone who chimes in!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you were able to drive the car you probably just jumped 1 tooth and the valves are proooobably ok. Doing the timing chain and everything is a pretty big bill though nonetheless.
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
From the Timing Chain Thread I posted this today...



Update

Just received my car from the dealer and total cost after tax was over $3k. Dealer prices for parts were crazy but I had no choice to go the dealer route because my car broke down 80 miles from where I live. I probably could've saved $300-$400 in parts BUT the dealership did provide me a nearly new Jetta loaner for 7 days, which basically offset the cost because I would've needed to rent a car during the down time since I drive 160 miles to and from work each day.

As for the car, the engine is noticeably more responsive. Especially when you tip into the throttle in 5th and 6h gear. It's hard to explain but the engine feels tighter and sounds different as well. My tuned ECU wasn't touch which was a fear I had but it's definitely there.

From the service receipt:

"Towed in, customer stated vehicle has a cam position sensor code and vehicle will run but stalls out...Confirmed code, car running rough, scanned for faults, had timing faults when checked timing with scan tool, was at edge of spec 5 was at 4.38, checked cam actuator for damage none found, timing chain stretched, replaced intake cam and timing chains, tensioner and replaced guided"

Interesting, makes me glad I had everything replaced proactively at 120k miles when I had the tensioner updated. Makes me feel better about having very recently done the rear main seal and new flywheel. I'll tell you what, replacing the flywheel definitely made the car idle quieter and drive smoother.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
If you were able to drive the car you probably just jumped 1 tooth and the valves are proooobably ok. Doing the timing chain and everything is a pretty big bill though nonetheless.

From what I've seen regarding timing failure I agree with this assessment. If the car still runs there's a good chance you don't have valve damage. That's easy enough to find out by running a compression test.

OP, sounds like you are gonna have to replace timing chains/tensioner/guides (~$570 for parts). Lower timing cover (~$170) has to be replaced after you take it off as well (okay, it is possible to reuse this but mine was hard as hell to get off the block and I definitely wouldn't advise anyone try to reuse it). It's a pretty intensive job and requires a few specialty tools. I believe others here have gotten quotes of $1600-$2000 for all of the above parts and labor from a European indy mechanic. Check out the link in my signature if you'd like more information about what the job entails and some pics since I just did this all to my car in January.

 
Last edited:

sterkrazzy

Autocross Champion
Yeah, shop around for the best price. I provided that link for reference. You have to catch certain sales and whatnot. I got the OEM parts kit from ECS for $451 during a sale.

That's not bad. It's not something I need to do for 6 months or so, so maybe I'll wait for the memorial day sales unless a sale happens before then.
 

Rolling_GTI

Ready to race!
I agree with what most saying here. If you only are one tooth off, can replace timing and be ok. If two, then it's a different story. I jumped one and replaced my tensioner and chain and am still fine. That happened at 90k, I'm over 255k now.
 
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