Defeating the sensor takes no more than 5mins:Not crazy about the fact that the Stop Techs don't come with the sensor so I would have to deal with the proverbial idiot light on the dash.
Electronic sensors are part of the front pads, well a single pad actually. If you want to retain that function you must buy pads that have the electronic pigtail hanging out of one pad. It is not transferable from old to new pads. If you don't care about that functionality you can just cut the pigtail off the old brake pad, twist the 2 wires together, tape it up, and plug it back in. This will keep the light from coming on the dash.
Rear brakes have no electronic sensor.
Defeating the sensor takes no more than 5mins:
If it eases your mind at all, the sensor is extremely basic. Just a connected wire loop (closed circuit condition / no dummy light) that gets broken apart when the friction material wears down far enough (open circuit condition / dummy light illuminates). It's nothing fancy and won't necessarily help you if you are experiencing uneven pad wear between inside/outside pads.I hear ya, Tony and I saw your earlier post. Ideally though, if a sensor exists, I'd rather take advantage of it than bypass it. Just how my mind works...weird, I know.
As to the rotors (and this is coming from someone that handles just basic maintenance on their vehicles), WTF is there such a price disparity for rotors on this car? I mean, I get the differences between standard, drilled, slotted, high performance, F1 products,etc., but how can one be $20 or $25 bucks and another seemingly similar product be $110? What sort of wizardry or magic powers exist in the more expensive ones that cause you to stop quicker thus justifying the higher cost?
Is it all just a smokescreen?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Oh, and as to the rotors, if they're smooth with no gouges or cracks, they still need to be replaced? There's a slight lip on the edge from wear, but it's not significant. Is any edge lip a cause for replacement?
IMO If you don't know what fitment you need you should be purchasing from somewhere that specializes in these vehicles so they can set you straight. ECS Tuning, FCP Euro, eEuroParts, etc are all good euro-specific sites to order from.Bueller?
Also, input on these rotor/pad packages?
Rear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAZOJPS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1O3FVCQXGMIO5&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAZQBNQ/ref=psdc_46244011_t1_B00YAZOJPS
Front
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAZK5DI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1COIXT69Y8KR&psc=1
Amazon claims that the 11.3in and 10.7in both fit rear of my 2012. True? How would I know which is best fit?
I feel like this should go in the stupid questions thread...
Bueller?
Also, input on these rotor/pad packages?
Rear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAZOJPS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1O3FVCQXGMIO5&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAZQBNQ/ref=psdc_46244011_t1_B00YAZOJPS
Front
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAZK5DI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1COIXT69Y8KR&psc=1
Amazon claims that the 11.3in and 10.7in both fit rear of my 2012. True? How would I know which is best fit?
I feel like this should go in the stupid questions thread...