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Sub frame kits-inserts/new bolts/etc

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Galvanic corrosion is a cathodic reaction, with the aluminum being the anode and the other material being the cathode.

With cathodic reactions, the total surface area of each material matters - the larger the cathode is relative to the anode, the faster the reaction happens, and vise versa. Since the total surface area of the anode (subframe) is large compared to the cathode (collars) in this case, the likelihood of any collars welding themselves to the subframe is pretty low unless your car sees extreme amounts of salt water spray (and if it does, subframe collars are the least of your concerns).

The worst that will probably happen is the surface of the collars will discolor a bit, and that'll happen with any kit.
Thanks for the knowledge. Much appreciated :w00t:
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Seems I got distracted and forgot to include my conclusion.

While bronze is technically the best material for the application (and even that still corrodes a bit - mine are a nice sickly brownish green color now), I doubt there's much of a real world difference between any of them.

Tyrol are the ones who came up with the design originally, and that's worth something to me (also, I bought them back when the only other options were almost as expensive). But if you can't justify $225 for that over the ECS or CTS kits at ~$100, I totally get that and those kits should work just as well.
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
Seems I got distracted and forgot to include my conclusion.

While bronze is technically the best material for the application (and even that still corrodes a bit - mine are a nice sickly brownish green color now), I doubt there's much of a real world difference between any of them.

Tyrol are the ones who came up with the design originally, and that's worth something to me (also, I bought them back when the only other options were almost as expensive). But if you can't justify $225 for that over the ECS or CTS kits at ~$100, I totally get that and those kits should work just as well.

I went with the Tyrol kit this year partly because they were the original developers of the solution, partly because of the materials choice, and partly because they made it the easiest to include the ARP and OEM replacement bolts. I wanted to change out all the bolts, and the package made it easy and worth the price of convenience.

The subframe collars and the engine/trans mounts made a pretty big difference in how the car feels on the road, in a positive way. Can't wait to replace the struts next spring.
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
Subframe
Aluminum

Collars
ECS: Aluminum
034: Stainless Steel
CTS: Aluminum
TyrolSport: Bronze

I see the issue of "galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion" brought up quite often when discussing subframe collar kits. As you can see there are subframe collars on the market made from a variety of materials. Feel free to do your own research in the area but theory would say that any collar made from a material OTHER than aluminum would produce MORE galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion than an aluminum collar.

All that theory is fine and dandy but the bottom line is that I haven't seen anyone show pictures/evidence of corrosion occurring at the subframe/collar interface on our cars. Think about what the aluminum subframe mounts to from the factory...the steel body. If that doesn't have any galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion then I don't think you need to worry about throwing a collar into the mix.

I personally purchased and installed an ECS kit solely for the reason that it was cheap, especially when you consider purchasing all of the stretch bolts separately for the kits which don't include them. All of the kits do the job of filling the voids in the subframe just fine.

In summary, my opinion is to buy a cheap kit and not worry about your car rotting away from some tiny pieces of aluminum/bronze/stainless steel.

Materials choice makes another difference beyond just galvanic corrosion.

I agree that the primary purpose of the subframe collars is to fill the voids to provide a tighter coupling between the subframe and the chassis. However, the softness of the collars does make a secondary difference in terms of how well coupled the subframe and frame will be. Ideally, the collars should be a softer material than both surfaces that they are joining together. This way, any surface roughness or dimensional difference between the collars and the voids they are filling (as well as the "flat surfaces" where the collars touch the subframe and frame) will cause the collar to deform into those voids when torqued down, providing an even more solid connection.

The stainless steel collars are almost certainly harder than the aluminum subframe, and the ECS/CTS kits with aluminum collars will probably deform to a degree. The bronze collars are definitely softer than aluminum and will deform into the surface roughness of the mating surfaces. Granted, it is probably a marginal difference in this application, but something to consider.
 

MK6NGT

Ready to race!
So much great and technical information here. Thanks a ton. I feel like I should have done this two months ago as I just had four new tires and an alignment done but I may pop for the ecs kit then get another alignment next time I need to rotate the tires.

Really though, thanks a ton for the feedback.
 

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
I went with the Tyrol kit this year partly because they were the original developers of the solution, partly because of the materials choice, and partly because they made it the easiest to include the ARP and OEM replacement bolts. I wanted to change out all the bolts, and the package made it easy and worth the price of convenience.

The subframe collars and the engine/trans mounts made a pretty big difference in how the car feels on the road, in a positive way. Can't wait to replace the struts next spring.

What are your thoughts on the value of the ARP bolts?

It looks as though the primary feature that ups the price on these kits are those bolts.
 

snobrdrdan

former GTI owner
What are your thoughts on the value of the ARP bolts?

It looks as though the primary feature that ups the price on these kits are those bolts.

They're nice

Tyrol also machines the head of (4 of) the collars to locate/center & recess the flange on the bolt as well for 100% locked down fitment (IMO)

 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
What are your thoughts on the value of the ARP bolts?

It looks as though the primary feature that ups the price on these kits are those bolts.

There's nothing magical about them, they're most likely just hardened 301 stainless*. But, that's an expensive bolt to make to begin with, and the fact that these are custom made for these kits in small volumes really drives the price up. The ARP branding definitely helps sell the kit - "ARP bolts included" is a lot more concise and relatable to most car guys than industry jargon.

*I don't know for sure that's what they are, but that's what ARP's published mechanical properties line up most closely with.
 

tkelly0727

Ready to race!
i went with the tyrolsport kit mostly because or the reputation and the so many positive reviews and they were on sale when i got them. still havn't installed them yet because im trying to decide if i should get a front sway bar and replace the upper subframe mount, due to the wear and tear (114K)
 

postbox

New member
Any recommendations on 110mm bolts? I have 034 collar kit (works great!) but will be dropping my subframe soon and would like to replace 4 90mm and 2 110mm bolts which came with the kit.

I'm thinking of buying two N10141003 12x1.5x110 which are meant for our lower control arms. Torque specs for those match specs for those longer subframe bolts on the rear.
Original (black) bolt partnumber is WHT000431A and I don't want to buy it since all collar kits come with bolt design different from this one.

Tyrolsport kits seems to feature ARP bolts but I can't find them.
 

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TimS

Go Kart Newbie
As far as I know, the only way to get the Tyrol ARP bolts is with the Tyrol collar kit.

That N10141003 is what 034 includes with their collar kit to replace the WHT000431A, so you should be fine using those.
 

AceZX

Passed Driver's Ed
Any recommendations on 110mm bolts? I have 034 collar kit (works great!) but will be dropping my subframe soon and would like to replace 4 90mm and 2 110mm bolts which came with the kit.

I'm thinking of buying two N10141003 12x1.5x110 which are meant for our lower control arms. Torque specs for those match specs for those longer subframe bolts on the rear.
Original (black) bolt partnumber is WHT000431A and I don't want to buy it since all collar kits come with bolt design different from this one.

Tyrolsport kits seems to feature ARP bolts but I can't find them.
Hey, how did those 2 replacement bolts work? Do you by chance have a part number for the 4 90mm bolts? I am getting conflicting numbers.
 

postbox

New member
@AceZX, didn't drop my subframe yet - have to do flywheel fairly soon and will swap my front swaybar at the same time wo dropping it.

90mm subframe to body (top) bolts are N91039802
 

AceZX

Passed Driver's Ed
I don't have a choice, i'm changing the dmf on dsg, along with having to replace the dogbone mounts in the subframe and new sway bar bushings. Dropping the subframe, makes it all much easier. I have the Tyrolsport collar kit, but i can't find replacement ARP bolts anywhere, and getting them from Tyrolsport themselves, is just too expensive. Thanks.
 

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
I have the Tyrolsport collar kit, but i can't find replacement ARP bolts anywhere, and getting them from Tyrolsport themselves, is just too expensive. Thanks.

Check out AllensFasteners.com

They sell a lot of ARP bolt sizes individually. ARP bolts aren't cheap but they are really nice.

I have the kit with ARP bolts waiting to go in as well.
 
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