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Transmission fluid recommendations

FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
Hi everyone, I'm planning to change my transmission fluid for my 5MT and I'm looking for recommendations, what brand do you recommend me ? I have heard about some GM fluid. I'm looking for something which offer smooth shift on cold and high temp, I hate how it shift when it's cold outside...

Also, how many liters of fluid do I need ? For the fluid change, I just have to loosen the fill plug, then I remove the drain plug, once all the fluid is drained, I put back the drain plug, I remove the fill plug and I pump the new fluid, then I put back the fill plug and it should be done ? Do I forget something? :)

Thanks for your help,
Kind regards.
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
I use the VW manuel transmission fluid, IMO they made it so they should know whats best for it. I drained and filled mine last year but didn't get quite as much out as I though so I intend on doing another drain an fill again this summer.

After the change the shifting was smoother but on really cold days the the shifting is a bit notcher than normal until things warm up a bit. Manuel transmissions don't have pumps so I normally drive in first gear as much as I can but keep it under 3K, first gear does a great job spreading the fluid around even when it's thicker.

EDIT: You only need 2 litres. If you never changed the fluid before, ever, you should wake up the fill and drain plugs by striking them with a heavy hammer several times, that makes it easier to remove the plugs.
 
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FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
MLue1 said:
I use the VW manuel transmission fluid, IMO they made it so they should know whats best for it. I drained and filled mine last year but didn't get quite as much out as I though so I intend on doing another drain an fill again this summer.

After the change the shifting was smoother but on really cold days the the shifting is a bit notcher than normal until things warm up a bit. Manuel transmissions don't have pumps so I normally drive in first gear as much as I can but keep it under 3K, first gear does a great job spreading the fluid around even when it's thicker.

EDIT: You only need 2 litres. If you never changed the fluid before, ever, you should wake up the fill and drain plugs by striking them with a heavy hammer several times, that makes it easier to remove the plugs.
Click to expand...

For how much time did you run on 1st gear ? Does it takes a lot time for the fluid to spread ? And did your car was as level when you drained / filled ? Do you know where I coud buy OEM fluid in a Canadian store ?

What do you think of this: http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Volks...uid/Red-Line-Synthetic-Oil-75W90-1-Quart.html ?

I will probably go with VW fluid if I don't find something better ;)
 
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M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
Nice find, I actually have 4 litres of the Red Line Synthetic Oil - 75W90 floating around in my garage, I've been using it in my vintage Porsche for years.

The site says that is for our VWs but I'm NOT convinced. The friction modifiers in the oil can make the shifting smoother on the synchros but it may not be good for the gear surfaces, that is the same case for the GM Synchromesh Fluid with friction modifiers. I have buddies using the GM Fluid in their Mazdas, smooth shifting but when you take the tranny apart you see the wear on the gear surfaces.

I'm not saying the Redline won't work just cautious thats all.

EDIT: I used to buy the Redline Oil through Special order at Canadian Tire store near me, I had bought a case so that has lasted a long while. Check around you don't have to buy it from the US.

Cheers
 
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FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
Finally I bought 3L of OEM fluid, cost like 17$ / 1L, pretty cheap ;)



And I bought a transfert pump at Canadian Tire for about 20$





Yesterday when I was about to change the fluid, I discovered that I needed a huge allen key / hex bit socket about 17mm or 18mm.

Also I read that you have to lock the shifter and then remove the shifter bearing pin because oil will also come out from there.



The shifter bearing pin is the blue arrow. The torque spec for the draing and the fill plug is 22ft lb, is it really important to toque it by the spec ?

Source: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/manual-transmission-gear-oil-change-mk5-mk6-tdi/ It's for a Jetta MK5 5spd but it looks the same for our golf 2.5 5spd;
 
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Saabstory

Saabstory

.:R32 OG Member # 002
Ouch, I have 6 quarts of Redline MT-90 I am selling; could have cut you a deal :D

Torque spec is reasonably important to ensure no leaks; but as long as you replace the washer with a new one and get close you should be fine
 
FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
VR6Growl said:
Ouch, I have 6 quarts of Redline MT-90 I am selling; could have cut you a deal :D

Torque spec is reasonably important to ensure no leaks; but as long as you replace the washer with a new one and get close you should be fine
Click to expand...

There is a washer on the drain plug and the fill plug ? Also my torque wrench starts at 25ft lb, I can go lower, is it that bad if it's torque at 25 instead of 22 ?
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
FlowMK6 said:
There is a washer on the drain plug and the fill plug ? Also my torque wrench starts at 25ft lb, I can go lower, is it that bad if it's torque at 25 instead of 22 ?
Click to expand...
25 is fine

See why I use the VW stuff, some places list the Redline MT90 others list the Redline 75W90.
 
FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
Well, waste of time and money to me, changed the fluid and I don't notice a huger difference, transition from 4 to 5 is more smooth but other than that, nothing really changed... The old oil was way more black than the new one.

Anyway, I think it's a waste of time / money, 60$ for the fluid and believe me with 2L you have enough to fill it (buy a extra bottle for nothing), 20$ for the pomp, 80$ for a set of hex bit socket, because they don't sell the 17mm alone, you have to buy the whole set, I will probably not use it again ^^

And for the torque spec, I don't understand the 20ft lb for drain and fill plug, they are like endless screw, you can't torque that...

Finally, I won't recommended to change your fluid, if you lost some fluid for somewhat reason, this would be recommended but otherwise, VW said it's lifetime and I'm pretty sure it can last for 10 years +, so why would change it, deal with the cold ;)
 
Saabstory

Saabstory

.:R32 OG Member # 002
FlowMK6 said:
There is a washer on the drain plug and the fill plug ? Also my torque wrench starts at 25ft lb, I can go lower, is it that bad if it's torque at 25 instead of 22 ?
Click to expand...

Oops; went back and double-checked my write-up and they don't have washers. Mine were not endless, however; they were torx head bolts with a wide head, like this
 
FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
Mine is exactly like that (I found the mfg part number on ETKA, VW calls that Sealing Plug) :



How do you torque that ^^ I think that in my case, there is no torque spec based on that VW document: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/pdf/a5translevel.pdf

Anyway, the fluid change might help the gears, but I don't think it's a most nor an upgrade, just some kind of maintenance stuff that you shouldn't worry about, it's made to last ;)
 
Saabstory

Saabstory

.:R32 OG Member # 002
What you posted and what I posted are not the same bolt style, mine had a "lip" on it where yours does not. ;) I agree, there is no way to torque what you have unless it "hits" against something on the inner end.

I don't know how many miles are on your car, but VW defines "lifetime" as 100,000 miles, so it really isn't "lifetime" at all. I changed mine at 80k miles and it did make a difference in how it shifted and felt. That may have been because it "needed" it, or it may have been simply due to the different fluid I used (Redline MTL); probably a bit of both really.

However, I agree that doing it too early would probably have minimal effect.

I would have changed mine again at 160k; but dieselgate meant I quit bothering with any other maintenance until I traded it in :thumbsup:
 
FlowMK6

FlowMK6

Ready to race!
VR6Growl said:
What you posted and what I posted are not the same bolt style, mine had a "lip" on it where yours does not. ;) I agree, there is no way to torque what you have unless it "hits" against something on the inner end.

I don't know how many miles are on your car, but VW defines "lifetime" as 100,000 miles, so it really isn't "lifetime" at all. I changed mine at 80k miles and it did make a difference in how it shifted and felt. That may have been because it "needed" it, or it may have been simply due to the different fluid I used (Redline MTL); probably a bit of both really.

However, I agree that doing it too early would probably have minimal effect.

I would have changed mine again at 160k; but dieselgate meant I quit bothering with any other maintenance until I traded it in :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I am at 160 000 km which is 100 000 milles and I'm pretty sure the fluid have never been changed due to the dark tint of the old fluid.

I decided to replace the fluid, because on cold morning, the sifting was everything except smooth. This morning it was better, it did feel more normal even if it was cold outside. And it's nice for dieselgate, you got a tdi ?
 
Saabstory

Saabstory

.:R32 OG Member # 002
I had a 2012 Golf TDI yeah; sold it back to VW on February 8th and bought a CPO 2014 BMW diesel (328 xDrive) to replace it :D
 
M

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
FlowMK6 said:
I am at 160 000 km which is 100 000 milles and I'm pretty sure the fluid have never been changed due to the dark tint of the old fluid.

I decided to replace the fluid, because on cold morning, the sifting was everything except smooth. This morning it was better, it did feel more normal even if it was cold outside.
Click to expand...
Life Time is a phrase first coined by the manufactures to sell more cars and put off expensive maintenance for the next unsuspecting buyer of the car.
 
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