sticksabuser
Ready to race!
in 4 pics
in 4 pics
Looking for a good DIY with working pictures also.
Great DIY! The picture links are broken though anyone have the pics to go with this?
In4pics
Pictures are back up ... for whatever help they are .
Pictures are back up ... for whatever help they are .
I understand that our clutch uses the brake fluid reservoir. Should we flush the clutch line at the clutch bleeder also? And if so, where in the order would it fall?
I have a power bleeder that I'll be using. Not sure what it mean about a separate chamber in the rear. So, open the clutch bleeder nipple and wait for clean fluid to come throgh, then LF RF LR RR, correct? Generally I've heard to always start farthest away from the master cylinder but our cars are opposite? Has anyone actually confirmed this with a mechanic or tech?
Fluid flush
Now that your new lines are installed, your brake lines are full of air. Time to bleed. The process is documented plenty - so I won't go into it too much here. I used ATE Super Blue, which makes it very very simple to tell when your line is fully flushed through.
The steps I followed are:
- Unhook the brake fluid level sensor from the brake reservoir cap
- Remove the brake reservoir cap (have some paper towels handy, it'll drop fluid when you remove it)
- Connect your pressure bleeder to the reservoir
- Pressure test your system to make sure you have a tight seal. I brought mine up to 5psi and heard a whistle from the reservoir... tightened up the pressure-bleeder cap, and went to 10psi and it held steady)
- Fill your pressure bleeder with your new brake fluid (you can do this 1L at a time... I used about 1.25L for the full flush)
- Bring the bleeder up to 10PSI
- Bleed the clutch line until you see clean, new fluid coming through. The clutch bleeder nipple is 9mm, and is immediately infront of your shifter assembly on the transmission, attached to a small black plastic assembly)
- Bleed each brake caliper by opening the 11mm bleed nipple. You'll identify the nipple by the black rubber dust cap on it. In order, do: LF, RF, LR, RR
- I had plenty of fluid still in my bleeder, so I repeated clutch, LF, RF, LR, RR again for good measure
Note: if you don't have a pressure bleeder, just do a quick search... there's plenty of info on bleeding the brakes with a friend to pump the pedal for you.
Edit: Detailed brake bleeding info in post #11 here http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33302
Finishing up
Now that the lines are installed and bled, it's time to clean up and put things back together.
Release the pressure from the bleeder by slowly loosening the pump from the bleeder-reservoir (not the car's brake-fluid reservoir). You'll hear the air hiss out. Do this slowly to avoid overspray.
Disconnect your pressure bleeder from the fill-reservoir, and use a turkey baster to remove the excess fluid until it's filled only to the MAX line. Reinstall the cap and reattach the fluid level sensor.
Reinstall your intake.
I sprayed down each wheel well with Simple Green and washed it out using a large brush (same one I use for cleaning the engine bay) to clean up the spilled brake fluid. I also hosed out the engine bay, and give it a quick rinse with some Engine Bright Foamy to remove spilled brake fluid
When putting my wheels back on, I also went ahead and rotated them - since I was at a 10K interval anyway.
Get the car back on the ground and go for a test drive! Get home safe and have a beer.