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2012 GTI "The Wraith" Build
- Thread starter Thumper
- Start date
Thumper
Autocross Champion
I like emNice pics too.
I want to see what that red jetta looks like with those black wheels also. Must be a pretty nice change.
Ok. Wish granted.
Before, with 18" silver Goals
And now, with the 18" Motegi MR116s
DasAuto1295
Go Kart Champion
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Yeah, we wanted to do a GLI conversion on the front, but the kits out there only work on the sportwagon for some reason as far as I can tell. I could piece together the parts from the dealer, but would be rather costly.
It might get a tune and lowered next year sometime though.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Nope, the Motegis at 18x8 40mm fit flush on the GTI with the super sports. Had a little rub on the front but the fender screw mod would have dealt with that. Remember the lower the measurement for offset the farther out the wheels poke. A spacer would have caused heavy rubbing without rolling the wheel opening. The Nurburgrings at 45mm sit in a bit but they don't look a bad as I thought they would so I am going to wait on spacing them out.
Yup, I may have to use Windows in a virtual machine to run VAGCOM, but the base system is still Linux. Looks cool with my setup with the desktop cube with a transparent desktop.
I'll post a screen of that when I get home too. You'll get a kick out of the wallpaper I use on the virtual XP machine.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
As promised, my VAGCOM setup.
HP DV6 with a quad core i7 and 6GB of RAM, 2GB slaved to the virtual XP install running in Oracle's VirtualBox software. Base system is Linux Mint 11 with the COMPIZ desktop cube with 3d unfold enabled. Four desktops with a main Skydome image (Daft Punk Tron Legacy) and transparent wallpaper (completely see through unless the cube is unfolded as shown below).
Like my wallpaper for the XP machine?
Linux penguin about to swat a Windows logo butterfly. Classic.
HP DV6 with a quad core i7 and 6GB of RAM, 2GB slaved to the virtual XP install running in Oracle's VirtualBox software. Base system is Linux Mint 11 with the COMPIZ desktop cube with 3d unfold enabled. Four desktops with a main Skydome image (Daft Punk Tron Legacy) and transparent wallpaper (completely see through unless the cube is unfolded as shown below).
Like my wallpaper for the XP machine?
Linux penguin about to swat a Windows logo butterfly. Classic.
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fender177
Ready to race!
Linux penguin about to swat a Windows logo butterfly. Classic.
#winning
I rocked that same wallpaper on all of my windows boxes after switching primarily to linux - I think I even ran it on my mac for a while haha.
Compiz is awesome. I remember when it was in it's very very early stages, I had to recompile so much shit just to get it to work (no rpms haha) - but it was 100% worth it as soon as the windows wobbled hahaha.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Been a while, so to make up for it this is a two part post.......
Well, after switching to my new wheels I found a surprise. There is more to wheel fitment than wheel size and offset.
Tires play a role even when they are the same size.
The Motegi's were 18x8 with 40mm backspace, running Pirrelli PZero Neros in 225/40/18.
My new TSW Nurburgrings are 18x8 with 45mm backspace and the Goodyear Eagle GTs from the Jetta were also 225/40/18.
The Motegi's had a light rub only under hard braking while cornering. The Nurburgrings that are set in 5mm farther are rubbing almost all the time. Hit a big bump while going straight and they will rub, hard braking while cornering? You think the tire is being cut (it isn't). The tread design of the Eagle GTs are just that much more blocky and wide....even at the same listed size. That is just amazing to me that the tread on the same size tire can basically account for 5mm+ of space.
Now, part two.
To alleviate the rubbing I decided to do the fender screw mod last night. It was always on my list but since the Motegi's barely rubbed it was not top priority, I have been trying to deal with the DP, my custom exhaust and then got distracted by the SoundaKator.
I got the right fender liner tucked back up inside the fender without too much issue but lots of swearing. I ended up removing the two screws at the rear lower just to get it to flex and then put them back in after it was tucked. The left one was just not going and I started taking off even more screws. To do this I had to turn the wheel all the way out the left and that's when I noticed something bad.
CV grease was hanging off my caliper, strut, and sway bar link. A lot of grease, probably about 1/4-1/3 of what was supposed to be in there.
Called Roadside and they towed it in to the dealer. The replacement boot is stuck in NJ so I won't have my car back until Monday!! Yes, it is being handled under warranty. As I have always said, mods do not void your warranty.
Sucks because I was going to bite the bullet and take it up to Reno this weekend and have the DP installed. My custom catback will be completed next month (got the tip ordered this week and finally decided on the muffler!!) at the latest and I wanted the DP on there before I had it done.
As for the screw mod.....I never got the left one done since I was distracted by the blown CV boot. But I think I will use a hairdryer to heat the plastic on the liner up. That should make it a lot easier.
Well, after switching to my new wheels I found a surprise. There is more to wheel fitment than wheel size and offset.
Tires play a role even when they are the same size.
The Motegi's were 18x8 with 40mm backspace, running Pirrelli PZero Neros in 225/40/18.
My new TSW Nurburgrings are 18x8 with 45mm backspace and the Goodyear Eagle GTs from the Jetta were also 225/40/18.
The Motegi's had a light rub only under hard braking while cornering. The Nurburgrings that are set in 5mm farther are rubbing almost all the time. Hit a big bump while going straight and they will rub, hard braking while cornering? You think the tire is being cut (it isn't). The tread design of the Eagle GTs are just that much more blocky and wide....even at the same listed size. That is just amazing to me that the tread on the same size tire can basically account for 5mm+ of space.
Now, part two.
To alleviate the rubbing I decided to do the fender screw mod last night. It was always on my list but since the Motegi's barely rubbed it was not top priority, I have been trying to deal with the DP, my custom exhaust and then got distracted by the SoundaKator.
I got the right fender liner tucked back up inside the fender without too much issue but lots of swearing. I ended up removing the two screws at the rear lower just to get it to flex and then put them back in after it was tucked. The left one was just not going and I started taking off even more screws. To do this I had to turn the wheel all the way out the left and that's when I noticed something bad.
CV grease was hanging off my caliper, strut, and sway bar link. A lot of grease, probably about 1/4-1/3 of what was supposed to be in there.
Called Roadside and they towed it in to the dealer. The replacement boot is stuck in NJ so I won't have my car back until Monday!! Yes, it is being handled under warranty. As I have always said, mods do not void your warranty.
Sucks because I was going to bite the bullet and take it up to Reno this weekend and have the DP installed. My custom catback will be completed next month (got the tip
As for the screw mod.....I never got the left one done since I was distracted by the blown CV boot. But I think I will use a hairdryer to heat the plastic on the liner up. That should make it a lot easier.
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Thumper
Autocross Champion
***UPDATE***
Been a while, been really busy with school and work.
I have two weeks off school now (although I am being sent to lovely Bakersfield all week so that cramps my schedule) and I am back on the modding project.
I finally crawled under my car (and into the engine bay) and removed my downpipe. I will install the 42dd one tomorrow as I have dinner plans tonight, have to clean up and go.
Guys (and gals), this is really simple. Simple thanks in no small part to plac and his DIY video and many posts on this subject. All I needed was his condensed video found here.
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26614
I was apprehensive, I fully expected to run into an issue or not be able to manage it (epic pessimist). But with my wife holding the flashlight and spotter mirror getting the front most top bolt on the turbo was almost a breeze. All the others are a cake walk. If you have any mechanical aptitude and know how to use a wrench this mod is easy to do with simple tools. 2-3 hours your first time, no problem.
Took me about an hour to remove the OEM pipe, you DO have to remove the battery and the battery tray to have room to fit the socket wrench and yes you need a LONG extension (around 10-12") and a swivel socket or swivel adapter. The nuts on the turbo end were tight, had to use several blasts of BP Fabulous Blaster I grabbed at O'Rielly (Link) to keep them from binding and breaking.
Install was fairly simply, just reversing the steps. And I already had all the right tools spread out LOL To make my life easy I only assembled the front two pieces of the 42dd downpipe off the car. Bolted it up to the turbo than installed the rear section on the car. One fitment issue, the rear section would not line up perfect, I had to really torque the bolts down to force the flanges to mate up and seal. After doing this I noticed the rear pipe was stretched on the hangers due to this mis-fitment. I will just have the exhaust shop realign the new pipes on my custom exhaust so the hangers are not stretched. Here's a picture of what I am talking about.
Here is a shot of the whole thing installed, the black finish with the copper gaskets is awesome. Of course only the techs at the dealer will ever see it LOL
I just installed the 42dd spacer and one non-fouler on the 3rd O2 sensor for now, I'll need to order another angle spacer for the #2 sensor and then see if I can't tune out the CEL.
I took some video of the stock exhaust sound and will take some after just changing the DP as well and post later. I got a worm drive clamp for the turbo pipe as suggested by plac and took the clamp off the intake as well to do the same, but couldn't find a clamp to fit and don't have the right type of vise grips to put the old one back on. LOL So, I won't be able to put the intake back on and start the car until next weekend when I get back.
Now I just need to make my appointment to get flashed to Stage 2 and then have APR build me a non-testpipe file because I want to try to work out the kinks of CEL free CBFA downpipe setups. I have lots of data logs of the O2 sensor readings at stock so we shall see.
But, Stage 2, here I come!!!!!! :burnrubber:
Been a while, been really busy with school and work.
I have two weeks off school now (although I am being sent to lovely Bakersfield all week so that cramps my schedule) and I am back on the modding project.
I finally crawled under my car (and into the engine bay) and removed my downpipe. I will install the 42dd one tomorrow as I have dinner plans tonight, have to clean up and go.
Guys (and gals), this is really simple. Simple thanks in no small part to plac and his DIY video and many posts on this subject. All I needed was his condensed video found here.
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26614
I was apprehensive, I fully expected to run into an issue or not be able to manage it (epic pessimist). But with my wife holding the flashlight and spotter mirror getting the front most top bolt on the turbo was almost a breeze. All the others are a cake walk. If you have any mechanical aptitude and know how to use a wrench this mod is easy to do with simple tools. 2-3 hours your first time, no problem.
Took me about an hour to remove the OEM pipe, you DO have to remove the battery and the battery tray to have room to fit the socket wrench and yes you need a LONG extension (around 10-12") and a swivel socket or swivel adapter. The nuts on the turbo end were tight, had to use several blasts of BP Fabulous Blaster I grabbed at O'Rielly (Link) to keep them from binding and breaking.
Install was fairly simply, just reversing the steps. And I already had all the right tools spread out LOL To make my life easy I only assembled the front two pieces of the 42dd downpipe off the car. Bolted it up to the turbo than installed the rear section on the car. One fitment issue, the rear section would not line up perfect, I had to really torque the bolts down to force the flanges to mate up and seal. After doing this I noticed the rear pipe was stretched on the hangers due to this mis-fitment. I will just have the exhaust shop realign the new pipes on my custom exhaust so the hangers are not stretched. Here's a picture of what I am talking about.
Here is a shot of the whole thing installed, the black finish with the copper gaskets is awesome. Of course only the techs at the dealer will ever see it LOL
I just installed the 42dd spacer and one non-fouler on the 3rd O2 sensor for now, I'll need to order another angle spacer for the #2 sensor and then see if I can't tune out the CEL.
I took some video of the stock exhaust sound and will take some after just changing the DP as well and post later. I got a worm drive clamp for the turbo pipe as suggested by plac and took the clamp off the intake as well to do the same, but couldn't find a clamp to fit and don't have the right type of vise grips to put the old one back on. LOL So, I won't be able to put the intake back on and start the car until next weekend when I get back.
Now I just need to make my appointment to get flashed to Stage 2 and then have APR build me a non-testpipe file because I want to try to work out the kinks of CEL free CBFA downpipe setups. I have lots of data logs of the O2 sensor readings at stock so we shall see.
But, Stage 2, here I come!!!!!! :burnrubber:
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BangMangler
Ready to race!
Nice! I've found Plac's video guides to be extremely helpful. He's quite a selfless person. Great quality to have.
razr390
Go Kart Champion
this bitchass troll called you a ricer... -.-
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25581&page=17
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25581&page=17
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Yeah, but since he commented on another thread that he thought bright red painted intake tubing with an oversized open cone filter was "good", I take his opinion with about a pound of pickling salt. LOL That and in the same post ridiculing me he shows a car with factory mudguards and calls it ricer too.......so........I think someone needs a helmet. Precious few brain cells there.
Man, I can't wait to get home and complete the reassembly of my car and test out the new DP!!!!!