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Adjusting Mk6 negative camber in rear

zee

Go Kart Champion



so this is the correct bolt to adjust right?

and for an 1.5 rear drop should i max it out... where both bolts are facing in?

thanks


oh yeah... I have a 2010 MKVI.... is the same right?


You do not have to adjust the camber with a 1.5" drop. It depends on your wheel spec. Mine was 18x9.5ET45 and I did not max out my camber on a ~2" drop.

To answer your question, Yes it is the correct bolt for camber on a MY2010. Be aware that adjusting it without a proper alignment will wear your tires way too fast because the toe will be off spec too.

I adjusted it only to get myself to the alignment shop without ruining my fenders and I succeded.:D
 

Modshack1

Go Kart Champion
You do not have to adjust the camber with a 1.5" drop. It depends on your wheel spec. Mine was 18x9.5ET45 and I did not max out my camber on a ~2" drop.

Looks like this came back from the dead...

Gonna disagree a bit here..... I just installed DG springs (3/4" drop). wheels are 8x18 with a 45 ET.

My starting camber from the factory was off (before install)
LR: -1.8 degrees
RR: -1.5

After springs:
LR: -2.0
RR: -1.7

So even a modest drop changed camber -.2 degrees..
I brought the LR back to -1.7 to even things out.

Having the right tools helps...:)



On Cambered tire wear, regular rotation tends to even things out and extend tire life. Here's a shot of some So3's at 20K miles on my old Audi TT which was cambered at -1.7 degrees. Rotate every 5K and you'll be good...:thumbsup:

 

zee

Go Kart Champion
His post indicated that he wants to max out his camber not correct it back to spec.

I probably should have posted "You do not have to max the camber with a 1.5" drop". Since an alignment to correct the camber is still needed after going lower.
 

Modshack1

Go Kart Champion
His post indicated that he wants to max out his camber not correct it back to spec.

I probably should have posted "You do not have to max the camber with a 1.5" drop". Since an alignment to correct the camber is still needed after going lower.

Ah...OK...I see now. He wants to Foook up his handling for the sake of cosmetics

Nevermind then.....:(
 
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zee

Go Kart Champion
THREAD REVIVED:p

Just thought I should update this thread as I received a PM asking how my tires held out.

I'll try to scan and post my alignment spec. I initially tried -2.5°(front) and -2.8°(rear) and but I was rubbing in front and the rear wheel was not fully tucking so I ended up with -3.0° all round and I am now able to fully tuck all four wheels when the car is loaded.

Front camber is -3.0° (stock is -0.3°, Euro is -0.4°).
Rear camber is -3.0° (stock is -1.3°, Euro is -1.45°).

My front tires started showing signs of cupping. At 8,000miles, I could not see it but would feel it if I run my fingers backwards on the inner edge. By 12,000miles, I could see the cupping on the inner edge a little. My guess is the caster and toe angles in front(when turning) since my rear is also cambered -3.0°....rears were fine visually at 12,000miles.

I sold the Sumo Akina tires(South Korean) for ~70% of what I paid and bought new tires(Sumitomo - parent company of Falken). Maybe the Japanese can do a better job prolonging a cambered tire since they love camber.

For next year my plan is to remove the camber in front and leave the rear cambered. We'll see...
 

Moxie1

Ready to race!
I was running -3ish degrees (a bit less, more like -2.75 I think) on my R56 MCS. Never had any issues with abnormal tread wear. I ran Yoko Paradas for a while, and switched to Neogens (better for street, IMO) on this setup.

I know plenty of folks who are -2.5+ with no real issues. That said, I rotated like crazy. Every 3k or so, and after long trips on the highway.
 

zee

Go Kart Champion
Good to hear Moxie, there might still be hope for my front setup. I should add that I did not end up rotating my tires but they could have fared alot better.
 

smrtypants44

Go Kart Champion
Front camber can't be changed with stock hardware. I am using ksport camber plates.

Actually it can be slightly adjusted by adjusting the subframe bolts (although it cant be brought as far out as your specs are).



(i just got my front camber fixed by the previously mentioned method)
 

zee

Go Kart Champion
;) it's only slight wiggle room of the strut though, which is why our front camber dffers from the euro spec, but not noticable for moderate tracking or wrong fitment wheels:D.
 

Tiggy1

Go Kart Champion
still not sure how to do this. i see the bolt. but is that the only one i loosen? and how do i know where im at without that handy tool
 

v-dug

Go Kart Champion
This thread KEEPS coming back from the dead! I'll throw in my opinion on camber based on my lowered Forester. It does not always eat tread. It can if not done right, or it the car is not balanced in other aspects. I ran -2.0F and -1.6R on my Forester. Looking at pictures at autocross, I realized what probably happens to a lot of people running high camber that makes them blame camber. Coming out of a corner, the inside front tire would lift enough to spin, and only the inside shoulder was making contact. Therefore only the inside shoulder would wear in that situation. And I did that a lot, on the street too. I upgraded swaybars (29F, 31R) which reduced my body roll, kept my wheels better planted coming out of a turn, and guess what? ZERO camber wear, perfectly even tire wear across the whole tire.

GRANTED, the VW is a completely different car and engineered differently, so I can't say it would be the same. My point is, I don't think everyone who reads this thread should walk away thinking "I'll never mess with camber b/c it will kill my tires." It depends. It all depends.

I am interested in adding more negative camber to the GTI, but I'm disappointed there's not a lot you can do for the front from the factory. I mean, it is beautifully balanced from the factory, but I'd like a little more grip in the corners while still running stock class at autocross. I'm going to research some more on the 'wiggle' for the front.
 
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