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Dude's R Build

2013R

Drag Race Newbie
I'm finding so many awesome features in this thing... like the digital boost gauge on the infotainment display! So rad... although who knows how accurate it is... says I hit over 32PSI in 3rd.

you have to subtract the normal 14.7 or something.. its so dumb they didnt do that from the factory.
 

thedude4bides

Go Kart Champion
The R is alive again! An awesome dubber from NY had a used transfer case laying around that came with a rebuilt transmission he needed. Got a great deal at $550 vs $3,000 new. Had my dealer install and they also replaced the control arm damaged from the tow company (of course they won't own up to it...).

Anyway, I'm super stoked to have her back on the road. She'll be on weekend and possibly some snow duty from here on out.

I already ordered some mods for my daily mk7 GTI with the 42DD shifter bushings and the APR Short Shifter/relay lever. I'll do the clutch bleeder and spring mods as well. As soon as I get under the car to get a look at the dogbone type I'll order the 034 billet insert. As for tune, I plan to do nothing just yet as I'm not looking forward to a clutch job so soon after the ordeal with the R. Who knows if I'll stick to that... either way, guess I'll need to make an account on golfmk7 for that ;)

Btw- when I picked my R back up I noticed the DRL's were not on. All the wiring was fine and they came on with the headlights but would turn off without headlights on. I searched deep and wide for what could be the problem and someone in Australia made a video about a sequence of shutting the car off, putting parking brake on, turning on power (no ignition yet) pulling the blinker stalk down, high beams back, then start the car and release parking brake... after 5 seconds a chime comes on and you shut off the DRL's. Do the same except push the blinker stalk up to turn them back on. One of the three tows or two dealers who looked at the car since she went down must have inadvertently done the sequence to shut off the DRL's... (this is all from memory so if you have this issue and it doesn't work try to search for the correct sequence).
 

2013R

Drag Race Newbie
Live the dream
 

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2013R

Drag Race Newbie
The Dude abides ;)

Been watching your vids... and thanks to you I'll be ordering the 034 doggy insert. If there's a way to let them know you were the reason and that helps your sponsorship with them let me know... but soon because I want to order ?

naw, it wont do anything for me, but thanks.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Keep on keeping on, Dude!
 

joeyfrost

Ready to race!
The R is alive again! An awesome dubber from NY had a used transfer case laying around that came with a rebuilt transmission he needed. Got a great deal at $550 vs $3,000 new. Had my dealer install and they also replaced the control arm damaged from the tow company (of course they won't own up to it...).

Anyway, I'm super stoked to have her back on the road. She'll be on weekend and possibly some snow duty from here on out.

I already ordered some mods for my daily mk7 GTI with the 42DD shifter bushings and the APR Short Shifter/relay lever. I'll do the clutch bleeder and spring mods as well. As soon as I get under the car to get a look at the dogbone type I'll order the 034 billet insert. As for tune, I plan to do nothing just yet as I'm not looking forward to a clutch job so soon after the ordeal with the R. Who knows if I'll stick to that... either way, guess I'll need to make an account on golfmk7 for that ;)

Btw- when I picked my R back up I noticed the DRL's were not on. All the wiring was fine and they came on with the headlights but would turn off without headlights on. I searched deep and wide for what could be the problem and someone in Australia made a video about a sequence of shutting the car off, putting parking brake on, turning on power (no ignition yet) pulling the blinker stalk down, high beams back, then start the car and release parking brake... after 5 seconds a chime comes on and you shut off the DRL's. Do the same except push the blinker stalk up to turn them back on. One of the three tows or two dealers who looked at the car since she went down must have inadvertently done the sequence to shut off the DRL's... (this is all from memory so if you have this issue and it doesn't work try to search for the correct sequence).


I know this is an old post but curious what your symptoms were as I think my xfr case or gearbox may be shot.
 

thedude4bides

Go Kart Champion
I know this is an old post but curious what your symptoms were as I think my xfr case or gearbox may be shot.
Bad noises in low rpm's at first and then clunk!

So, I'll put my theory out there as to how this happened. About a year prior my backend spun out in a snow storm and the rear passenger wheel hit a curb which destroyed the control arm and wheel. It also bent the subframe slightly. Insurance wouldn't cover the subframe because the car was close enough to alignment according to them. The car pulled right and I was not happy about this. I was ready to put up a big fight to have them do it but then all of the wind behind my sails just collapsed when I had a high speed ski crash that fractured my shoulder. I was on heavy pain killers and couldn't drive manual for months. Did 10 months of tortuous physical therapy and by now a new ski season was here and I wasn't going to miss any of it. It was that early season trip to VT from PA when it happened. I think the subframe was bent enough and wore the wheels unevenly enough such that it became an issue. Somewhere in NY I started feeling a slight vibration in the steering wheel indicating as much. Then in VT the bad noises happened and clunk!

How is your car now? What have you been experiencing?
 
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