How should I fix my downpipe install mistake?

[SJC1309]

So even though I read every downpipe install thread I could find, I stupidly thought I could get the turbo nuts off without pb blaster because my car only has 2,XXX miles on it...

Well one came off fine, two came out with the stud, and I'm still having issues with that top one. I feel like I'm working on a different car, because I have no freaking clue how all these people got all four bolts from the bottom.

My question is though, is what I should do with the two studs that came out. They're not stripped, but the nut is stuck about half way off on both. I thought about spraying the turbo end with pb and then just putting it back in using the stuck nut, and then spraying the nut so I can tighten it to the flange. Does anyone think this will work, or should I try a different approach?

 

[jay745]

So even though I read every downpipe install thread I could find, I stupidly thought I could get the turbo nuts off without pb blaster because my car only has 2,XXX miles on it...

Well one came off fine, two came out with the stud, and I'm still having issues with that top one. I feel like I'm working on a different car, because I have no freaking clue how all these people got all four bolts from the bottom.

My question is though, is what I should do with the two studs that came out. They're not stripped, but the nut is stuck about half way off on both. I thought about spraying the turbo end with pb and then just putting it back in using the stuck nut, and then spraying the nut so I can tighten it to the flange. Does anyone think this will work, or should I try a different approach?

You could try that, or just buy some new studs. They are relatively cheap.

Also its much much easier to get the top bolt off from the top. Remove your intake and use a long extension with a swivel head and you should be able to get it. Use plenty of PB on jobs like this in the future.

 

[SJC1309]

You could try that, or just buy some new studs. They are relatively cheap.

Also its much much easier to get the top bolt off from the top. Remove your intake and use a long extension with a swivel head and you should be able to get it. Use plenty of PB on jobs like this in the future.

Yeah, I thought about that too, but I'll need a special tool to get the studs in right?

And yeah, I am going from the top now, but I took the battery out instead of the intake. Even if I had taken the intake out, I feel like that shield would still be in my way. I got the top one started, but I sprayed it and letting it sit overnight. I ended up running out of daylight and it'll have to wait till after work tomorrow anyways.

I'm just praying this top stud doesn't come out because I don't know how in the hell I'm going to get a new one in that tight spot.

 

[KittehKinsMK6]

When I first did my DP (when I had one) I had issues getting new studs in the turbo flange and getting new nuts on the old studs.... So I just reused the old stud/bolt combo when they came out all at once and never had an issue
Also with my experience just take the battery out with the tray you don't haav to remove all of the intake just the main box. And it was easier to attach the socket/extension to the top bolt from the bottom then go to the top and get on it. Good luck witth your ventures!

 

[GoodTimesIndeed]

Yeah, I thought about that too, but I'll need a special tool to get the studs in right?

And yeah, I am going from the top now, but I took the battery out instead of the intake. Even if I had taken the intake out, I feel like that shield would still be in my way. I got the top one started, but I sprayed it and letting it sit overnight. I ended up running out of daylight and it'll have to wait till after work tomorrow anyways.

I'm just praying this top stud doesn't come out because I don't know how in the hell I'm going to get a new one in that tight spot.

No special tool is needed to put new studs in. If I were you I would buy new studs and nuts and replace them. With the downpipe out of the car it will give you some room to work. Add some copper anti-seize to the stud thread and start by hand so that its not cross-threaded. Place a nut on the stud and tighten down till the stud is fully tight. Now, if you try to loosen that nut you'll probably just loosen the stud so what you do is add a SECOND nut onto the stud and tighten it down till its just about tight against the first. Place a wrench on that second nut to hold steady and a wrench on the first nut and loosen. You might need to loosen the second one or tighten it depending on how tight the stud is in there. Sounds confusing but works great.

Good luck!

 

[Cryptic19111]

You should be able to just put them back in and tighten, or just use some vice grips to clamp the center unthreaded section, and then take the nut off.. or buy new ones. I picked up a set at an audi dealer for like $10

 

[steemax]

I had two of my 4 come out with the stud... when it came time to re-install the new down pipe I just threaded it all back in together. No issues here after 5k miles.

As for the top bolt, it was the easiest one for me, took all of 10 minutes from removing the battery/intake to having the bolt out in my hand. I used a socket extension/swivel attachment along with a dental mirror to see what I was doing. (Placs method found in his DIY video).

Just take a breather and take your time with it, you'll get it. Working under stress will just make the job a whole lot harder for no reason.

 

[Avdigigeek]

You could try that, or just buy some new studs. They are relatively cheap.

Also its much much easier to get the top bolt off from the top. Remove your intake and use a long extension with a swivel head and you should be able to get it. Use plenty of PB on jobs like this in the future.

truth

 

[SJC1309]

Thanks for all the suggestions guy, I ended up finishing when I got home today from work and just putting the studs/nuts back in like they were bolts. It went alright, couple concerns though...

This is the first one:

A tiny gap that just won't close up, I'm not sure if this is going to be a problem. The stud is all the way in, and I sprayed the nut to try and tighten that end, but she won't close up anymore. I honestly don't think the flange was straight...

My other concern is a light metal rattling sound when I press the gas from a full stop, but there is no rattling if I'm in neutral and hit the throttle. Looks like I'll be jacking it back up tomorrow to poke around unless someone has any ideas.

Thanks again.

 

[GoodTimesIndeed]

After a few heat cycles maybe that gap will close up a bit more. Or hit it with a hammer LOL. Its always a good idea to recheck those flange nuts after a little while and retighten anyways.

The light rattle might be your flex pipe vibrating under load. The downpipe could be twisting a bit due to torque causing the noise which could explain why you don't hear it in neutral.

 

[Letus]

I just used a couple of old turbo nuts to install the studs on my turbo.

I did have to clear the threads on the nuts with a tap first as they are lock nuts.

 

[SJC1309]

After a few heat cycles maybe that gap will close up a bit more. Or hit it with a hammer LOL. Its always a good idea to recheck those flange nuts after a little while and retighten anyways.

The light rattle might be your flex pipe vibrating under load. The downpipe could be twisting a bit due to torque causing the noise which could explain why you don't hear it in neutral.

It seems like it's intermittent now... earlier this morning I could produce the noise while revving the engine in park, but when I got home I couldn't. It also doesn't seem to happen after 3rd gear.

I've been searching all morning, and almost everything that's coming up is wastegate rattle, does this sound plausible?

 

[steemax]

Sounds like either it's rattling against the heat shield or one of the pegs from the sub-frame support brace popped out (has happened to me).

 

[SJC1309]

Sounds like either it's rattling against the heat shield or one of the pegs from the sub-frame support brace popped out (has happened to me).

So I just saw your original post as I was searching around and saw your picture of that bracket. When I installed mine, it didn't line up quite right either, but it's a eurojet, so the connection was a little different. It's two pieces, one straight piece coming straight down from the pipe, then another piece with the pegs. The straight down part was too close to the subframe, so I had to put that bracket on last by stuffing it in there and just tightening it. I'll go take a look at how it looks when I get a chance later to see if mine looks like yours did...

 

[SJC1309]

So the rattling has stopped....but I think I know why...

Bolt snapped off.

Fitment issue...