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It happened again! Help!

K

kenveen21

New member
So I purchased my vehicle towards the end of summer and its starting to give me issues. This is the list of the codes.

P0300
P0302
P2187
P0301
P0303
P0300
P2187
P0301
P0303
P0304
P0300
P0302
P2187
P0301

Now most of these are the same code. The one causing all of these is the P2187. This means that the air fuel mixture is bad and that is causing the other codes (Misfires). Now I know that the Inlet Manifold gasket has not been replaced and that may be all there is. I do not have a warranty on the vehicle and honestly I am lost. Any help is very much appreciated, thank you.
 
GoodTimesIndeed

GoodTimesIndeed

Go Kart Champion
Just taking a guess here but it could be your first 02 sensor. If your stock turbo it would be the one that plugs in there. This sensor is responsible for a/f readings.
 
Carlosfandang0

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
I’ve seen this before and in that case it was the MAF sensor, it could be that all it needs is a clean using EGR cleaner or switch contact cleaner, the MAF is delicate so be careful and check online for methods if you choose to try cleaning, this link may be of help also,

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18619/P2187/008583


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gtibrad

gtibrad

ZUM DIS
I wouldn't just start replacing every bit that could be the cause. It could be the 1st O2...but usually, if bad, it doesn't come with misfire codes.

Do not drive heavy on the throttle until resolved.

Check the PCV first...you know how? Not always best by doing an oil filler cap removal, but blow through it. Resistance is good...able to blow through it is bad.
Next, is your fuel correction way off? What are your LT fuel trims doing? What is data, at idle, in group 032 block 1? If it's a high positive value, you have a new leak. Have you ever smoked an engine to test for leaks? If unsure, find someone to help with this in doing a complete and thorough inducement.

I highly doubt it is all of your plugs and/or coils, but you can check if coils are bad by installing one...note the cylinder and drive again. If it only misfires in all the other cylinders, then yes...coils are bad. My guess is that it will still misfire in all of them because rare to impossible that they all have gone bad at once. You should keep a new coil handy to test a single cylinder misfires regardless.
 
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K

kenveen21

New member
I am completely lost on what you are saying, Is there a video on this or a step by step list so that I can know exactly what I am doing? Props to you for knowing so much about this but I am completely lost.
 
gtibrad

gtibrad

ZUM DIS
Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vroCKFZDo8

or this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQEciqR1ST8

You could remove the PCV tubes at either the intake tube or intake manifold and try blowing through them. There's an anti-return valve at each end. So you shouldn't be able to blow into either of them because the PCV routes vapors to the intake @ Idle and the Turbo inlet when crankcase pressure is present.

If you want to understand the system more...there's this on Doc. pages 25 and 26: http://www.tyrolsport.com/files/forumpics1/PDF/20tsi.pdf
 
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K

kenveen21

New member
So I did the test as shown in the video and it doesn't create the popping noise like he shows. I am going to get the MAS cleaner today so I will try that as well. Then I will erase the codes and try again. Any other tips you have? you have been a tremendous help.
 
gtibrad

gtibrad

ZUM DIS
Sorry for posting that oil filler cap vid...I cannot even tell a difference in the before and after sound.
 
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K

kenveen21

New member
I also have been doing some research and I have seen a lot of seafoam cleaning tutorials. Does anybody know what that is? Would that help me with my issues?
 
Carlosfandang0

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
If it does indeed turn out to be the PCV that is at fault this is the very latest revision part number, 06H103495AH

[EDIT] I’ve just noticed that the part number is shown at the end of the first video, as mentioned be sure to only use a brand new original PCV if you change it.

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Carlosfandang0

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
kenveen21 said:
So I did the test as shown in the video and it doesn't create the popping noise like he shows. I am going to get the MAS cleaner today so I will try that as well. Then I will erase the codes and try again. Any other tips you have? you have been a tremendous help.
Click to expand...



The PCV can fail in several ways, There wouldn’t necessarily be a popping sound (I’ve never known it to do that) the correct way to check it is as mentioned earlier is to try blowing through the pipes toward the PCV (best done when the PCV has been removed but not essential) or the easiest way (at idle) is to remove the oil cap and the engine should start running rough if the PCV is OK or it’ll stay virtually the same if it’s broken, if you rest the removed cap back on its opening and it sucks it back hard then it’s broken, if the cap is able to bounce around it’s OK, a little suction is normal.
My feeling is that it’s the MAF that’s the issue though but the Ross tech wiki page linked earlier shows the best things to check.

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gtibrad

gtibrad

ZUM DIS
↑ This ↑
I just never trust the 'oil filler cap test'...for me, because this doesn't isolate the test to the PCV alone.
Best to test the anti-reverse valves that they only allow flow one way.
 
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