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My GTI, Rocco

Cole2999

Cole2999

Autocross Champion
Got my invoice back from the shop. $3500, incl 200 for the battery, to be deducted when I bring mine back for warranty repair... Except it's out of warranty. I wanted to save for a decent lithium battery, but I don't really think I can afford more than $400 right now. I'm gonna keep researching it, hopefully I can find something I like for less.

http://imgur.com/a5rnDAv

Shop also forgot to torque my axles to the transmission-axle flange. Maybe also the axle nut, but I didn't have the tools to check that. 750 miles on hand-tightened axles. I'm going to have them recheck all the hardware I asked them to torque to spec. That's the axles and all rear suspension (toe arm, rear trailing arm, lower control arm, and upper control arm, specifically), some of which I had already done. The axles also need to be repaired at the least, if not replaced, as I only noticed when I saw all the axle grease splatter (which I'm also going to ask them to clean).

PXL_20230520_164916364.jpg


Also I broke the thread off the transmission shift tower because I'm really stupid so now that's $450 + labor, and I have to be very gentle going side to side (no more wiggles to make sure I'm in neutral 😨).

PXL_20230520_174136340.jpg


Installed the ECS panzer plate, tightened the shifter cables up and fixed my driver side-marker. Have to figure out what's up with my fog lights, should be bad plugs. Passenger side-marker has a missing terminal and is corroded.

I think I'll commit next weekend to replacing some necessary plugs: throttle sensor, coils, fog lights, side marker, MAF sensor, and whatever plug is causing my car to say it has no oil. RR wheel speed sensor, too.
 
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Cole2999

Cole2999

Autocross Champion
Shift tower got replaced, but now my shifter is mad outta wack. All the way to the left doesn't line up with first or second; I have to shift left, then up and to the right to get into first. Second is down and wiggle a bit. I'll try and get it adjusted tomorrow after F1.

PXL_20230527_224556881.jpg


Height was adjusted. I went for a reverse rake, I asked for 25⅜ in front and 25¼ in back. Haven't double checked it, but after I took the tools and parts out of the hatch the rear rubbing has stopped on wall but the harsher bumps. Front still rubs on bumpy turns but I don't think I'll be able to fix that without flares.

Tried a new wire tap for my radar detector and it still won't work 🙄 my biggest problem is all the options for a hardwired power cord get rid of the inline mute button, and I don't want to do that. I think I'll have to do a DIY harness and I'm not looking forward to it.

STG this car hates me. It hasn't passed inspection since I first got it in 2019. Every sticker I've had on it was a 3mo fix-it sticker, and it wasn't running more than half my ownership. Last weekend I put 200 miles on with no CEL then it flips the morning I dropped it off at the shop. Back to 3mo stickers 🙃

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Lastly, it does this weird thing during warmup. It'll reach operating temp, then plummet a couple minutes later. What's even weirder is this has happened over multiple engines and the cooling system was completely drained in between. It's not a great deal, once it warms back up it's good to go, but I frequently find myself waiting for operating temp, then getting on throttle just to look down and see cold temps.
 
GolNat

GolNat

Autocross Champion
The temp thing is due to the temp sensor being in the water pump housing ( from what I have read). When the t-stat opens the cooler water hits the sensor making the temp read low. It’s normal.

Hardwired radar detector is nice. Maybe buy a different model.
 
S

Saabingti

Autocross Champion
Can you not use a fuse tap for the radar detector?
 
Cole2999

Cole2999

Autocross Champion
Saabingti said:
Can you not use a fuse tap for the radar detector?
Click to expand...
So I am using one. I've tried a couple different ones, and none are delivering power, though I think it's for varying reasons. There are larger problems at play though.
I discovered the cable I was using wasn't made for my Escort iX, so I'm thinking that's why the mute button won't work. I'm going to try cracking open my broken original power cord and splicing then into the cord that's installed in my car.
I really like the button/light setup of the new cord, but the mute button has always been plagued by phantom presses. Then my fuse tap that came with it stopped working, despite the 15a fuse still appearing intact. I swapped in a 5a I had on hand and it worked, so I unplugged it and got a fuse kit with a 15a... Which stopped working after a day. Also appearing intact. It came on twice after that randomly.
Then I bought a new fuse tap pack from Amazon, but I'm a dummy and got the wrong size, so I'm pretty sure that's why it doesn't work despite me managing to jam it in.
So I'll probably still do a fuse tap, but I need to get the right one and I'll still have to modify the cable
 
Cole2999

Cole2999

Autocross Champion
GolNat said:
The temp thing is due to the temp sensor being in the water pump housing ( from what I have read). When the t-stat opens the cooler water hits the sensor making the temp read low. It’s normal.

Hardwired radar detector is nice. Maybe buy a different model.
Click to expand...
Also that's interesting about the temp sensor, thanks for the answer 👍 I do like my radar detector and I don't think it's the problem here; my fucking with the power cord has been ongoing for about a year and a half, when my 12v cable stopped working. I considered buying another but they're $40-50 and I had wanted to hardwire anyway.
Plus the gf hates the beep so she's not too upset it's broken 😅
 
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