6
Stage 1 tune vs stock youtube video breakdown
- Thread starter BoostedVW11
- Start date
BoostedVW11
Drag Racing Champion
Personally im more worried about emissions, highway drone, cold start up noise/smell from a performance downpipe. Stage 2 owners say the top end is much better though. However, ive seen pretty much a 50/50 view on stage 2 actually having a power increase via tune over stage 1 vs just clearing a CEL.
Oh it's definitely stronger up top. And the cold start up isn't bad at all. And it Lasts a whole 15 -30 seconds? Drone is mostly from the aftermarket cat backs. If you stick to just aftermarket downpipe you won't have to worry about that.
But regardless of what anyone says in a forum, the best advice is to go to local meets. Or arrange meet ups with people in your area. You need to see, hear, feel all the things you care about. What is fast to me might not be to you. What's drone to one might not be to another. Internet clips and forum threads only tell you so much.
spiker369
on air, don't care
This.. I actually put mine into stock mode yesterday when driving to school just to see if there really was that big of a noticeable difference (it's been a while with the tune) and I felt like the stock gti is very sluggish compared to stage 1. Especially when needing to pass someone.
Needless to say, I switched it back to 93 mode when I got to campus..
hcappie
Passed Driver's Ed
Stage 1 will not affect your clutch. Anything above stage 1 will start to affect it.
'13 CSG Autobahn 6-sp 4-door; APR Stage 1 Flash; Carbonio Stage 1 Intake; HPA Short Shifter; VW Drive Gear Springs; 30% Tints; Black Cherry R LED Tails
PetrolHead
When's the next track day
Unfortunately, no. Stage 1 has made a lot of our clutches slip (mine included).
This isn't correct. There are plenty cases of clutches slipping at stage 1, myself included. He's DSG anyways, there is no wear or tear going stage 1/2 for them.
aimalick
Ready to race!
i put stage one on a 50k mile clutch, no slip.
PetrolHead
When's the next track day
It's hit or miss, that's for sure.
POPSMK61
Ready to race!
What kind of clutch did you get? Did you have to replace the whole clutch or kept some OEM parts? Reason for asking, I read some threads that some kept certain parts of the clutch like pressure plates and added some drop in clutch.
PetrolHead
When's the next track day
I had mine warrantied for the clutch noise TSB. They replaced the disk and pressure plate, with "revised" stock parts and kept the flywheel. Revised is in quotes because there's no proof of what was upgraded, but it's what I was told. Feels different and holds stage 1 great, so I'm not complaining, and I'm not going to mess with it.
Many have had success with the drop-in disk. I'm not saying it isn't possible, but to me it seems like the issue is more with clamp force than disk material. Seems like the drop-in disk is a pain to install and can lose it's effectiveness over time. There's a thread around here with people documenting their experience.
If I had to replace the clutch again, I'd be going pressure plate and disk, but that's just me.
POPSMK61
Ready to race!
Was the noise due to the tune? If so, that's awesome they did a warranty. And it sounds like your clutch is holding up. What was your mileage when you got the tune and how long did your clutch start slipping? What's your mileage now. Reason why I'm asking is I really want to pull the trigger on getting tuned and I'm just weighing my options budget wise. And if my clutch starts slipping I need to know what route to go, replace the whole clutch assembly or just certain parts. Basically, what would be the most inexpensive way to do this. I understand it's "Pay to Play" but just need to get an idea how much to pay.
PetrolHead
When's the next track day
It's TSB 2028783. Most people associate it with the TOB, but they replace the clutch assembly (PP and disk). Basically, the clutch starts making a noise on takeoff or under load when cold. I got lucky that my car was showing signs of it right around the time is started slipping. I took it to the dealer with the TSB number and it was fixed the same day. Might be tough to get done if your clutch isn't making noise, but I don't know.
Let's see. My car was tuned at 5K miles, started slipping at 8k. I drove around in stock mode to save the FW, and got the clutch replaced just shy of 10k with my oil change.
I'm at 18k now, no slipping, and I've tried to make it slip. Seem to be holding up really well. If you're just stage 1, the cheapest is probably a drop-in disk, but a new PP and disk isn't a whole lot more, and if you're paying a shop to do it, that's the way to go. Sachs (an OE supplier) makes an upgraded PP and flywheel, that's the way I'd go. There's an aftermarket company too, not sure of the name.
There's no harm in trying out stage 1. If the clutch slips, go back to stock mode, and drive around until you can afford a clutch (or try the warranty). You'd basically be in the same position you're in now (stock) but you can flip a switch and go back to stage 1 at any time.
Let's see. My car was tuned at 5K miles, started slipping at 8k. I drove around in stock mode to save the FW, and got the clutch replaced just shy of 10k with my oil change.
I'm at 18k now, no slipping, and I've tried to make it slip. Seem to be holding up really well. If you're just stage 1, the cheapest is probably a drop-in disk, but a new PP and disk isn't a whole lot more, and if you're paying a shop to do it, that's the way to go. Sachs (an OE supplier) makes an upgraded PP and flywheel, that's the way I'd go. There's an aftermarket company too, not sure of the name.
There's no harm in trying out stage 1. If the clutch slips, go back to stock mode, and drive around until you can afford a clutch (or try the warranty). You'd basically be in the same position you're in now (stock) but you can flip a switch and go back to stage 1 at any time.
POPSMK61
Ready to race!
Ok, I'm about 90% pulling the trigger. Thanks for the info. Still getting cold feet.