I keep fighting the Stage 1/2 urge, and even had 1 tuning shop and 1 dealership advise against it, but threads and videos like these don't help at all.
Aside from the risk of the ECU failing, I'm also not sure I want to pay for the additional maintenance and wear and tear required of going Stage 1/2.
Guess I need to test drive someone local's tuned car to see if it's worth it to me.
Personally im more worried about emissions, highway drone, cold start up noise/smell from a performance downpipe. Stage 2 owners say the top end is much better though. However, ive seen pretty much a 50/50 view on stage 2 actually having a power increase via tune over stage 1 vs just clearing a CEL.
stock to stage 1 is incredibly noticeable, it's like driving a different car all together.
Same here. So itching to get Stage 1. Only stopping me is the clutch. Right now it has 20K miles on it. Don't really know when it will give out.
Stage 1 will not affect your clutch. Anything above stage 1 will start to affect it.
Stage 1 will not affect your clutch. Anything above stage 1 will start to affect it.
'13 CSG Autobahn 6-sp 4-door; APR Stage 1 Flash; Carbonio Stage 1 Intake; HPA Short Shifter; VW Drive Gear Springs; 30% Tints; Black Cherry R LED Tails
Same here. So itching to get Stage 1. Only stopping me is the clutch. Right now it has 20K miles on it. Don't really know when it will give out.
It's hit or miss, that's for sure.
What kind of clutch did you get? Did you have to replace the whole clutch or kept some OEM parts? Reason for asking, I read some threads that some kept certain parts of the clutch like pressure plates and added some drop in clutch.
I had mine warrantied for the clutch noise TSB. They replaced the disk and pressure plate, with "revised" stock parts and kept the flywheel. Revised is in quotes because there's no proof of what was upgraded, but it's what I was told. Feels different and holds stage 1 great, so I'm not complaining, and I'm not going to mess with it.
Many have had success with the drop-in disk. I'm not saying it isn't possible, but to me it seems like the issue is more with clamp force than disk material. Seems like the drop-in disk is a pain to install and can lose it's effectiveness over time. There's a thread around here with people documenting their experience.
If I had to replace the clutch again, I'd be going pressure plate and disk, but that's just me.
It's TSB 2028783. Most people associate it with the TOB, but they replace the clutch assembly (PP and disk). Basically, the clutch starts making a noise on takeoff or under load when cold. I got lucky that my car was showing signs of it right around the time is started slipping. I took it to the dealer with the TSB number and it was fixed the same day. Might be tough to get done if your clutch isn't making noise, but I don't know.
Let's see. My car was tuned at 5K miles, started slipping at 8k. I drove around in stock mode to save the FW, and got the clutch replaced just shy of 10k with my oil change.
I'm at 18k now, no slipping, and I've tried to make it slip. Seem to be holding up really well. If you're just stage 1, the cheapest is probably a drop-in disk, but a new PP and disk isn't a whole lot more, and if you're paying a shop to do it, that's the way to go. Sachs (an OE supplier) makes an upgraded PP and flywheel, that's the way I'd go. There's an aftermarket company too, not sure of the name.
There's no harm in trying out stage 1. If the clutch slips, go back to stock mode, and drive around until you can afford a clutch (or try the warranty). You'd basically be in the same position you're in now (stock) but you can flip a switch and go back to stage 1 at any time.