stoptech pads and cryo-treated slotted rotors

[[Old User]]

Hi all,

My new brakes are going in tomorrow!! Super stoked the brake wear light is definitely getting annoying . I got them from tire rack for an awesome deal so thanks to those guys they know how to get shit done. And it was beautifully packaged might I add. Heres some pics, there are a lot so be patient





don't mind the thigh







a friend that you guys probably know (*****2.0t) is doing the install for me tomorrow, I can't wait! full impressions to come in a few days.

 

[[Old User]]

Thanks nick!! super cool dude & really knows his stuff! also he showed me what his catless downpipe into magnaflow catback sounded like... it sounded nasty!!!!

these brakes feel amazing. I bedded them in today and will post impressions in a few days.

 

[Blaznjoe]

Awesome man! Good pics :thumbsup:

Hope you bled your lines for optimal performance

I have a similar set up but opted to install the Tyrolsport brake bushing kit as well. Over improvement over OEM is noticeable, however, increase of brake pad dust is noticeable as well. Let us know your results.

 

[GoodTimesIndeed]

Nice, looks good! In for reviews. Can't wait to get mine done.

 

[[Old User]]

thank you gentleman

they feel better everytime I drive it :thumbup:

@blaznjoe do you think I need to bleed the lines? they weren't disconnected or messed with at all & seem to be working fine but I'm all for learning something new

 

[Blaznjoe]

The manual recommends brake/clutch fluid change at the 3 year mark. Also said it is included, once, in the care-free program up 36K miles. (I did not know this until now.) Then it recommends changing fluid every 2 years after this.
StopTech website, which is very informative, provides general guidelines which varies on how you drive/track your rig.
http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-brakes

Honestly, I think you're fine unless you race your car at the track a couple times a year. If you do, follow the StopTech guidelines. Otherwise, consider the VW manual recommendations.

It's not a difficult job with a brake pressure bleeder (like the Motive Products bleeder kit). I used a friend's "vacuum" bleeder and that was really easy as well. I flushed about 2 500ml cans of OEM fluid through my lines. For me the PITA part is lifting my car to the wheels off. I just hate the fact that there are only four lifting points. :bonk:
I also had my local tuner bleed the brakes and with a lift they didn't even take off the wheels to do the job. They are able to get to each bleeder screw from the inner side of each wheel. (I'm thinking I might try this myself next time.) One final note, do not over tighten the bleed screws. I believe PandaGTI stated on another thread that he did and the screw failed.

 

[vwgti2.0t]

Glad you like the brakes Harris! As for bleeding the lines...I've done probably 500 brake jobs and you definitely don't need to bleed lines when changing pads.

He is correct though, the fluid "should" be changed every 36k or so. Not a huge deal, as I've seen cars with 200k who've never changed their fluid.

Either way, I have a Motive power bleeder and could flush the fluid in a short amount of time if you're interested. I did a flush on GoodTimes's (who posted above) car last summer so maybe he could comment.

FYI, for a daily driver I wouldn't do anything other than OEM fluid. I used to run Motul and it ran havok on my clutch line seals. I've seen no problems with OEM, and 98% of people would never get their brakes hot enough to come close to boiling the stock fluid.


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[IVVVIKris]

I'm interested in this brake setup as well. I'm running the stoptech pads now, which were a significant improvement over stock, and was looking at doing the cryo slotted rotors later down the road.

 

[[Old User]]

Thanks nick :thumbup: I didn't think they needed to be bled but hey I'm no mechanic.

@IVVVIkris
They are great rotors so far but I don't know how huge of a difference in stopping power they make. I think the improvement is mainly from the pads with a small amount of benefit from the discs. But they look sweet and the cryo treatment should extend the life significantly. We will see

 

[nvturbo]

Thanks nick :thumbup: I didn't think they needed to be bled but hey I'm no mechanic.

@IVVVIkris
They are great rotors so far but I don't know how huge of a difference in stopping power they make. I think the improvement is mainly from the pads with a small amount of benefit from the discs. But they look sweet and the cryo treatment should extend the life significantly. We will see

The caliper pistons were pressed in during replacement. It wouldn't hurt to bleed the system. I always bleed the brake system every time I do a brake/rotor job.

 

[vwgti2.0t]

Bubbles form at the top. When you press the piston in you're forcing fluid UP. When you press the brakes after you are pulling fluid down. There's is absolutely no way you would create air in the lines from depressing the piston. Absolutely no way.

I've been around cars my entire life, and have build and modified some pretty ridiculous cars. Never in my life have I ever heard of bleeding brakes after a pad change until today.

 

[nvturbo]

Bubbles form at the top. When you press the piston in you're forcing fluid UP. When you press the brakes after you are pulling fluid down. There's is absolutely no way you would create air in the lines from depressing the piston. Absolutely no way.

I've been around cars my entire life, and have build and modified some pretty ridiculous cars. Never in my life have I ever heard of bleeding brakes after a pad change until today.

That's what I used to think but then again, that's up to you. Not my car so I could care less. This isn't the first car I replaced brake pads/rotors BTW. I've worked on various other cars besides these "SUPERIOR" VWs.

 

[mattkosem1]

I've been around cars my entire life, and have build and modified some pretty ridiculous cars. Never in my life have I ever heard of bleeding brakes after a pad change until today.

Same here. If you have fluid in the system that is within it's specified life span, there's not really a need. Cars using DOT4 fluid should be getting a full replacement every two years, or even more frequently with high perf fluid, so you really shouldn't have cruddy fluid in there unless you haven't kept up with it or have over heated it.

--Matt

 

[[Old User]]

awesome thanks for the info guys, I think my fluid was replaced sometimes last year but I can't remember. I'll post a full review tonight, car needs a wash first

 

[JT641]

Change your brake fluid, As the saying goes "Better Safe Than Sorry" Always did it as part of any brake job I did.





How is everything performing?? Any squealing vibration when braking??