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Understanding Heatsoak

GTIwannagofast

Ready to race!
This will never happen unless the ambient air temperature was the same as the compressor outlet , 200+ degrees. Then we'd have bigger problems :eek:

couldn't agree more. that is how i define the term "heat soak"... up until that point, it is a loss in cooling effectiveness.
 

Modshack1

Go Kart Champion
Just read this. Nice explination on intercoolers.

However this does not explain heat soak really or how that effects the the actual cooling. When you heat soak what is actually soaking? Is it the actual air? The metal of the cooling fins in the intercooler? Is it like a spongue soaking up to much water and just cant take any more in? Heat being the water and whatever medium being the spunge.

What is happening is the IAT's increase...Higher temps at the manifold (measured by the IAT sensor just past the TB) means the ECU dials back timing to keep the engine in a safe range and minimize the potential for detonation. A large part of the difference between 93 and 100 Octane programs is Timing adjustment..because, as opposed to cooling, higher octane serves to cool the combustion chamber some and reduce detonation potential. The Timing can then be advanced for more power.

On the external cooling, I've tried a few systems...Fan cooling, External water mist etc. Both are relatively ineffective for a Daily driver. A CO2 ring may be great for the drag racers because it will instantly supercool the IC just before a run. Effects are very transient though and the cost to feed it would be high. My water mist system would drop IAT's about 10 degrees but only for a brief period. You can't carry enough water to have this run all the time. W/M seems the most effective from my experience as it is relatively effective and efficient for a DD..It doesn't Deal with the IC heat soak (only movement and flow over the IC will do that) but it does act as supplementary cooling after the IC until it can stabilize after overheating ..

Water mist set-up on my old TT:
 
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A_Bowers

Moderator
With the C02 setup I was thinking it would be able to operate like a window switch for WOT applications. If you can drop your charge temps below ambient because of the intercooler and the c02 combo, that would allow you to have the computer adjust timing more for a lower temp entering into the manifold.


My thinking at least.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD
 

Modshack1

Go Kart Champion
With the C02 setup I was thinking it would be able to operate like a window switch for WOT applications. If you can drop your charge temps below ambient because of the intercooler and the c02 combo, that would allow you to have the computer adjust timing more for a lower temp entering into the manifold.


My thinking at least.

IMO, Better results with W/M in my experience. Cheaper to put a system together, Cheaper to feed (@$4-5/gallon), and equally effective in dropping IAT's to close to ambient...

I've got mine to trigger at 5 psi... and only use 1/2 gallon/ tank of fuel. I can adjust IATs pretty effectively just by triggering the W/M system. I have a turn on light and my boost curve has been adjusted so I can trigger at will by just leaning on the throttle a little. It works well..

Combine W/M with a properly sized IC (I have the GS V1 Twintercooler clone) and it keeps things in a good place for maximizing power day to day even in hot climates like here..

You guys wonder why I haven't gotten a tune....This is one of the reasons.
 
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A_Bowers

Moderator
I'm looking st below ambient temps though. WMI isn't my route.

My intercooler now will get me to ambients and hold there no problem, but when the weather turns hot, and my ambients are reaching 103ish it would be nice to have something that could drop my IAT temps without injecting anything into the motor.

I guess that's what my plan is.

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A_Bowers

Moderator
you reach ambient IAT??? or close to....

Yes. See my logs from my 1st post. Its the blue line on the first log. It was 74-75 degrees that morning when running logs.

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