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How do I diagnose a faulty PCV?

havocsrt

havocsrt

Ready to race!
*****2.0t said:
It's most likely your PCV, as that is what the lean code and revving itself would point to. You can pop the saucer thing off on top to see if the diaphragm is torn.

A word of caution though. If you have any indication the PCV is bad, change it sooner than later. If the diaphragm is torn you are pressurizing the crank case, which will leak to rear main seal failure (which is a LOT more expensive and takes a LOT more time to fix than buying a PCV).

FWIW, the oil cap test did nothing for me when mine went. I found like a mm long tear in the diaphragm after I took it apart. RPM would hang around 12-1300 rpm for a little bit before coming down to regular idle every time I touched the throttle.
Click to expand...
Thats exactly what mine is doing. I will take a look at it. Thanks guys for you help

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
L

lilfleck

Go Kart Champion
PCV seems to be fine. I found a hose loose behind the coilpacks when I was taking things apart. I could have knocked it loose when I pulled the coilpacks out of the way, but worth noting.

Did not find any red flags:




IAT sensor for good measure



Next I should take off the cap of the PCV to check the actual diaphragm.
 

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F

FriggenT1

Banned
*****2.0t said:
It's most likely your PCV, as that is what the lean code and revving itself would point to. You can pop the saucer thing off on top to see if the diaphragm is torn.

A word of caution though. If you have any indication the PCV is bad, change it sooner than later. If the diaphragm is torn you are pressurizing the crank case, which will leak to rear main seal failure (which is a LOT more expensive and takes a LOT more time to fix than buying a PCV).

FWIW, the oil cap test did nothing for me when mine went. I found like a mm long tear in the diaphragm after I took it apart. RPM would hang around 12-1300 rpm for a little bit before coming down to regular idle every time I touched the throttle.
Click to expand...

I'm having warm start stalling. Start it up, sometimes it cuts off, then the second time it's ok, so I'm not sure the deal there. I haven't seen anything about that and the pcv.
 
zrickety

zrickety

The Fixer
Sounds like fuel issue.
 
M

Mk6 Steve

Ready to race!
Ha! When I took off the oem pcv it was missing the orange plunger/diaphragm so I replaced it with a 034 catch can kit :thumbsup: It solved my oil consumption and boost problems. In the next hour or so I will be removing my intercooler and plumbing, for the last time, and cleaning it out again due to the oem pcv taking a shit and filling my golf r intercooler with motor oil. I can't say enough about the kit as it works fantastic. :thumbup:
 
N

Natemk6

Passed Driver's Ed
*****2.0t said:
It's most likely your PCV, as that is what the lean code and revving itself would point to. You can pop the saucer thing off on top to see if the diaphragm is torn.



A word of caution though. If you have any indication the PCV is bad, change it sooner than later. If the diaphragm is torn you are pressurizing the crank case, which will leak to rear main seal failure (which is a LOT more expensive and takes a LOT more time to fix than buying a PCV).



FWIW, the oil cap test did nothing for me when mine went. I found like a mm long tear in the diaphragm after I took it apart. RPM would hang around 12-1300 rpm for a little bit before coming down to regular idle every time I touched the throttle.
Click to expand...



I bought my 2012 GTI last year and for as long as I have had it, it will idle around 12-1300 rpm before coming down. I was under the impression that it was just a cold start thing because if I start the car after its already warm it goes right to the normal idle rpms
 
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