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CTS K04 Coolant Return Line Issue?

Bruh Man

Bruh Man

Go Kart Champion
EDIT: The CTS K04 kit does not include all of the necessary hardware to install as advertised. You will need to purchase a 15.3 Oetiker clamp and one thicker coolant line washer p/n N0138144.

I'm in the process of installing a CTS K04 kit. I was told the kit included everything needed for install, but had to buy a 15.3 Oetiker clamp for the vacuum line and now I'm thinking I should have bought one of the thicker washers as outlined in Grambles' APR DIY. The coolant return line is hitting in a few spots that can't be right. Even though Clay confirmed I received the right washers included in my kit it seems I need the thicker washer to clear the plug underneath...



Also, the line would not bolt back up without the rounded head between the washers resting against whatever you call that clamp...



Can any other CTS K04 users confirm if they had the same issue?
 
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2013R

2013R

Drag Race Newbie
correct on both counts. The thick washer fixes the exact issue in your first pic. don't even install it until you have that, the coolant will drip. hmm your 2nd pic is showing contact on the side? no way to really fix that if its the banjo circle itself. i wouldnt want to loosen that clamp and tap it away, pretty risky.
 
Bruh Man

Bruh Man

Go Kart Champion
2013R said:
correct on both counts. The thick washer fixes the exact issue in your first pic. don't even install it until you have that, the coolant will drip. hmm your 2nd pic is showing contact on the side? no way to really fix that if its the banjo circle itself. i wouldnt want to loosen that clamp and tap it away, pretty risky.
Click to expand...

Thanks, need to stop by the dealer for a few other things, will pick up the thicker washer.

GTI_likeurmom said:
is it hitting the clamp that holds the compressor housing together?
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Yes, I even had to dremel a tiny bit of the edge of the clamp off to thread the banjo bolt. Now that it's in, they're touching.
 
2013R

2013R

Drag Race Newbie
dont think its a real problem. both pieces should not be moving independently of each other anyway. The banjo bolt is so tight that it will be locked together forever.
 
U

U-20T

Go Kart Champion
You could have used the bottom port and been fine or spun the clamp an little bit or bend the line ever so slightly.

The return line is better on top so I would spin the hotside vband clamp a little bit and the when you tighten the line backup bend it so the it doesn't touch the lower plug you only need a 1/16th gap. The line could vibrate so you don't want it to actually touch.
 
grambles423

grambles423

Automotive Engineer
Getting the thicker washer (Or even just stacking two OEM Washers) will do the trick. Essentially, you are CRUSHING the coolant line against that plug. NVH over time will crack the line and cause leaks.

Stacking will cause more concerns for leaks, but shouldnt be an issue initially. By accident, I ran almost 35K miles with two washers stacked against each other on the front position coolant line with no leaks. Just FYI. Found out about it when I was uninstalling
 
Djunited1

Djunited1

Go Kart Champion
When you say leak, you mean a boost leak or something else? This issue doesnt affect performance right?
 
grambles423

grambles423

Automotive Engineer
Coolant leak.
 
Bruh Man

Bruh Man

Go Kart Champion
Thanks for the input everyone!

U-20T said:
You could have used the bottom port and been fine or spun the clamp an little bit or bend the line ever so slightly.

The return line is better on top so I would spin the hotside vband clamp a little bit and the when you tighten the line backup bend it so the it doesn't touch the lower plug you only need a 1/16th gap. The line could vibrate so you don't want it to actually touch.
Click to expand...

Can I spin the hot side clamp with the turbo bolted down to the manifold? Will anything shift once that clamp is loosened? Just want to make sure I don't damage anything.
 
Bruh Man

Bruh Man

Go Kart Champion
grambles423 said:
Getting the thicker washer (Or even just stacking two OEM Washers) will do the trick. Essentially, you are CRUSHING the coolant line against that plug. NVH over time will crack the line and cause leaks.
Click to expand...

How about where the round part is hitting the hot side clamp?
 
grambles423

grambles423

Automotive Engineer
Bruh Man said:
How about where the round part is hitting the hot side clamp?
Click to expand...

It should place the apex of the banjo bolt within the GAP between the end of the compression clamp. I never had an issue and my clamp was within the same area.
 
U

U-20T

Go Kart Champion
Bruh Man said:
Thanks for the input everyone!



Can I spin the hot side clamp with the turbo bolted down to the manifold? Will anything shift once that clamp is loosened? Just want to make sure I don't damage anything.
Click to expand...

If you can get to it to losen you should be good, you would only loosen enough to tap with a screwdriver to spin it, if you are careful no problem.

Bruh Man said:
How about where the round part is hitting the hot side clamp?
Click to expand...

That should not be as much as an issue and the line on the plug, you can try the method above if you are comfortable doing it, like I said you have it bend the line just a tad since its installed already.
 
HSTuning

HSTuning

Ready to race!
Bruh Man,

If you can't find that washer, let me know. We stock them for the APR kits, just give me your address and I'll shoot one out to you no charge.
 
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