Shooting For The Best DynoJet Numbers

HYDE16 said:

As some of you may know I'm preparing for a DynoJet shootout between two different tunes (will remain unnamed as it's irrelevant to my question) on the same car, same day, same dyno. My goal is to ensure that the dyno results are 100% legit without trying to downplay results due to the typically uncontrolled variables. The goal of this thread is to CONTROL these variables and make sure everything is taken into account before I put two tunes to the test.

Here is the list of controlled variables for my DynoJet preparations, what else am I missing?

DYNO PREPARATION:
-New TSI engine with 10,000 miles on it (Checked and cleaned at 5,000 miles, NO carbon build-up)
-New intake manifold (NO carbon build-up, no flapper issues)
-TOP and TBP checked and clean (intercooler clean, no blow-by)
-New fuel filter (6.6 bar)
-New air intake filter
-New NGK BKR8EIX Iridium (2668) Spark Plugs @ 0.026” (recently tested for best spark plug combo)
-New coil packs
-MAF/MAP/IAT sensors cleaned (best readings possible)
-Smoke test recently performed and passed (no boost leaks)
-Cold tire pressure is set to OEM recommendations from the door jam sticker on my car
-VagCom throttle body alignment

FUELING:
-Gas tank run to empty
-Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner added
-Gas tank filled with 93 Octane Top Tier Gas (either Exxon, Mobil, or Shell)
-Gas tank run to empty
-Gas tank filled with the SAME 93 Octane Top Tier Gas as above (either Exxon, Mobil, or Shell) for DynoJet

AT THE DYNO:
-Same car on the DynoJet with hardware listed in my build thread (see signature)
-Vehicle will stay strapped the exact same way during all testing without any changes to the straps AT ALL.
-Two different ECU's pre-loaded with two different tunes
-Morning appointment for coolest temperatures
-Aquamist water methanol system disabled
-4th gear runs starting at 2,000RPM
-Identical IAT’s at the beginning of each pull (this will be done by free-revving the engine in ‘blips’ to allow the quick gasps of air to wick away the absorbed heat in the intake manifold)
-Proper cool down time between runs for heatsoaking to normalize
-Tire pressure will be checked between sessions and adjust as necessary)

ECU SWAPPING / ADAPTATION:
-Battery pulled and ECU removed
-ECU #1 with 93 Octane MAP, battery connected, 3 dyno runs for "adaptation", 3 runs for final numbers (highest independent HP & TQ, then averages)
-Battery pulled and ECU removed
-ECU #2 with 93 Octane MAP, battery connected, 3 dyno runs for "adaptation", 3 runs for final numbers (highest independent HP & TQ, then averages)

DYNO GRAPHS:
CF = current J1349 JUN93
Smoothing = 5

Click to expand...

GIACUser said:

When we did dyno comparisons on other cars we also used heat sensors in key areas associated with performance so that each run is "fair". Exhaust manifold and hot side of turbo most important but also block temp. Doing just timed cool downs did not work out.... starting all dyno runs from the same temp is important to properly compare runs. Otherwise the later runs where the turbo has built up more heat will have an advantage for the very same reason you have it coated and run a blanket on it.

Click to expand...

GIACUser said:

When we did dyno comparisons on other cars we also used heat sensors in key areas associated with performance so that each run is "fair". Exhaust manifold and hot side of turbo most important but also block temp. Doing just timed cool downs did not work out.... starting all dyno runs from the same temp is important to properly compare runs. Otherwise the later runs where the turbo has built up more heat will have an advantage for the very same reason you have it coated and run a blanket on it.

Click to expand...

U-20T said:

This, he can use an infrared temp gun to make it as fair as possible.

Click to expand...

HYDE16 said:

As some of you may know I'm preparing for a DynoJet shootout between two different tunes (will remain unnamed as it's irrelevant to my question) on the same car, same day, same dyno. My goal is to ensure that the dyno results are 100% legit without trying to downplay results due to the typically uncontrolled variables. The goal of this thread is to CONTROL these variables and make sure everything is taken into account before I put two tunes to the test.

Here is the list of controlled variables for my DynoJet preparations, what else am I missing?

DYNO PREPARATION:
-New TSI engine with 10,000 miles on it (Checked and cleaned at 5,000 miles, NO carbon build-up)
-New intake manifold (NO carbon build-up, no flapper issues)
-TOP and TBP checked and clean (intercooler clean, no blow-by)
-New fuel filter (6.6 bar)
-New air intake filter
-New NGK BKR8EIX Iridium (2668) Spark Plugs @ 0.026” (recently tested for best spark plug combo)
-New coil packs
-MAF/MAP/IAT sensors cleaned (best readings possible)
-Smoke test recently performed and passed (no boost leaks)
-Cold tire pressure is set to OEM recommendations from the door jam sticker on my car
-VagCom throttle body alignment

FUELING:
-Gas tank run to empty
-Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner added
-Gas tank filled with 93 Octane Top Tier Gas (either Exxon, Mobil, or Shell)
-Gas tank run to empty
-Gas tank filled with the SAME 93 Octane Top Tier Gas as above (either Exxon, Mobil, or Shell) for DynoJet

AT THE DYNO:
-Same car on the DynoJet with hardware listed in my build thread (see signature)
-Vehicle will stay strapped the exact same way during all testing without any changes to the straps AT ALL.
-Two different ECU's pre-loaded with two different tunes
-Morning appointment for coolest temperatures
-Aquamist water methanol system disabled
-4th gear runs starting at 2,000RPM
-Identical IAT’s at the beginning of each pull (this will be done by free-revving the engine in ‘blips’ to allow the quick gasps of air to wick away the absorbed heat in the intake manifold)
-Proper cool down time between runs for heatsoaking to normalize
-Temp gun used to measure consistent temperatures at various engine points
-Tire pressure will be checked between sessions and adjust as necessary)

ECU SWAPPING / ADAPTATION:
-Battery pulled and ECU removed
-ECU #1 with 93 Octane MAP, battery connected, 3 dyno runs for "adaptation", 3 runs for final numbers (highest independent HP & TQ, then averages)
-Battery pulled and ECU removed
-ECU #2 with 93 Octane MAP, battery connected, 3 dyno runs for "adaptation", 3 runs for final numbers (highest independent HP & TQ, then averages)

DYNO GRAPHS:
CF = current J1349 JUN93
Smoothing = 5

Click to expand...

hockeystar17mnj said:

Be greatful guys, his numbers will be ideal & fair for both tunes. HYDE is so hardcore he got a brand new motor just for the dyno run!

Click to expand...

HYDE16 said:

Yea, I'm not taking any BS about carbon build up, valve float, etc. New engine, bolt on mods, 2 tunes.

Click to expand...