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DIY/Review/Comparo: Sub-$1k OEM bi-xenon headlamp upgrade

Q

qbansir

Passed Driver's Ed
great write up man

Dude this is another great write up!!! I just purchase a set of xenon non led housings and i am planning to do exactly what you did. I still need the oem ballasts and bulbs and 14 pin adapters...when everything arrives i hope it goes smooth... I hope after everything and proper vagcom coding, it will work as it should and also have highbeams...

:thumbsup:
 
XGC75

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
qbansir said:
Dude this is another great write up!!! I just purchase a set of xenon non led housings and i am planning to do exactly what you did. I still need the oem ballasts and bulbs and 14 pin adapters...when everything arrives i hope it goes smooth... I hope after everything and proper vagcom coding, it will work as it should and also have highbeams...

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Let me know how it turns out! You'll definitely have high beams. Let us know how coding goes, though. That's the only part of this DIY I can't confirm.

butchered by autocorrecr
 
Z

zsm722

Ready to race!
Thanks for the writeup. i've followed that thread by OEMplus from the beginning, and he's a good friend of mine.

I haven't wired the high beams yet and it's been year, I went with ebay adapters that came with my lights that I purchased used here on the forums and have had no issues.
They even come with pins for grounding the turn signals and city lights. I just need to remove the extra shutter wire pins that route to the CECM.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-Bi-Xe...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f30b20fe2&vxp=mtr



Instead of depinning and repinning all the harnesses, I want to do what they were talking about in the vortex thread, running a separate wire from pin8halogen->pin11xenon to open the shutter.

To keep everything easily reversible, and not modifying the halogen connector, I would need to run a separate wire with those small connectors between the harness from pin 8 to pin 11 correct? (after I remove the extra shutter wires). What gauge do you recommend? I've heard just getting any yellow trigger wire?

EDIT: I overlooked this post it's been a while. If you have anything to add I appreciate it.
Edit2: Post 239
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...enons-Swap&p=80913291&viewfull=1#post80913291

FROM VORTEX:
jpipdw said:
Sorry for the crappy pics, but it's dark out. All it takes to get your high beams working is to make a simple wire. Just unpin the big long wire out of pin 11 and set it aside.

For this wire, you'll need a vw repair wire and the following pins for your adapter harness:

I used 000979134EA for the wire which already comes with a male pin for #8, cut the other end off, and crimped on a smaller terminal pin, part # N10335807

Then you pin number 8 in the halogen harness to pin 11 in the xenon harness like this:



Click to expand...



Thanks man. Again great writeup.

-Zubin
 
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XGC75

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
I actually can't see which specific post you're referring to from the link, but I have a good idea of what you're referring to. Within the Kufatec harness, you'll be wiring from pin 8 of the halogen 10 pin connector to pin 11 of the 14 pin that plugs into your lights (I know you know that but I like to be thorough). Bear in mind that all pins of the 10 pin connector are of the large variety.

What you might do is just use the long wire that would normally run all the way back to the CECM, the one that's plugged into pin 11 of the 14-pin connector, and crimp a large pin onto it to plug into pin 8 of the 10-pin connector. Or do as I did and find a donor lead from a pin that's not being used and fuse them. However you make the connection, though, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge of that wire. The shutter is a pretty small actuator that's likely run using a low-power rectifier. It doesn't need several amps of continuous current like the ballasts. It'd be alright to use 16-20 gauge wire. Just make sure its insulation can withstand the temperature variation between winter and scorching track day heat.

butchered by autocorrecr
 
Z

zsm722

Ready to race!
XGC75 said:
I actually can't see which specific post you're referring to from the link, but I have a good idea of what you're referring to. Within the Kufatec harness, you'll be wiring from pin 8 of the halogen 10 pin connector to pin 11 of the 14 pin that plugs into your lights (I know you know that but I like to be thorough). Bear in mind that all pins of the 10 pin connector are of the large variety.

What you might do is just use the long wire that would normally run all the way back to the CECM, the one that's plugged into pin 11 of the 14-pin connector, and crimp a large pin onto it to plug into pin 8 of the 10-pin connector. Or do as I did and find a donor lead from a pin that's not being used and fuse them. However you make the connection, though, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge of that wire. The shutter is a pretty small actuator that's likely run using a low-power rectifier. It doesn't need several amps of continuous current like the ballasts. It'd be alright to use 16-20 gauge wire. Just make sure its insulation can withstand the temperature variation between winter and scorching track day heat.

butchered by autocorrecr
Click to expand...

I updated my post so you can see the post from VWVortex if you are interested.

I went to my local dealer and they didn't have the connectors or repair wire in stock. While I can just use my own shutter wires as a source wire, they seem smaller thickness than the rest of the wires. I'll just get some 16 gauge wire and order the connectors from KefferVW. Thanks again! :happyanim:
 
WetMoney

WetMoney

Go Kart Champion
amazing DIY!

i did this swap as well. i have been putting off doing the jumper wire for my highbeams. after reading this, i will definitely do that this weekend. :thanks:
 
XGC75

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
You're welcome! I wrote this up to try and ease some nerves about this swap. It's not really as big a deal as I heard everyone saying it was.

If you end up rewiring the harness (either wiring pin 8 to pin 11 in the adapter harness or if you wire it without the adapter harness as I described in the OP), and you have a vag-com cable, let us know if you can code out the bulb-out error with the instructions in the OP. I still haven't had a chance to code my car.
 
WetMoney

WetMoney

Go Kart Champion
XGC75 said:
You're welcome! I wrote this up to try and ease some nerves about this swap. It's not really as big a deal as I heard everyone saying it was.

If you end up rewiring the harness (either wiring pin 8 to pin 11 in the adapter harness or if you wire it without the adapter harness as I described in the OP), and you have a vag-com cable, let us know if you can code out the bulb-out error with the instructions in the OP. I still haven't had a chance to code my car.
Click to expand...

i have the Kufatec adapters.. so im going to just run a trigger wire, from 8 pin to 11 pin.
i see u modified your stock harness... mine is alittle more straight forward i believe. also, i dont have to run a Ground wire like you did for pin 7.

i have to order the wire and pin adapters.

EDIT: do you happen to know the pin size for the 10 pin connector? i know the 14 pin is part# N10335807


EDIT after EDIT:
the part number is 000979134, this is a trigger wire with a flat end connector.

so if anyone has this swap and using Kufatec adapters...to run Highbeams, all you need is:
000979134 (2) Halogen side (10 Pin connector)
N10335807 (2) Xenon side (14 pin connector)

*NOTE*
The 000979134 trigger wire comes with both flat end connectors. you may only need to buy one. just cut the wire in half (hence now 2 wires!) because you have to crimp the N10335807 pins on anyway. i will see when i go to the dealer and update if 1 or 2 wires are needed.
 
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WetMoney

WetMoney

Go Kart Champion
Ok so I have High Beams now!

It's was very simple. Simple enough, that I should have done this sooner.

I only needed the 000979134 wire since I have the Kufatec harness. There is already an existing wire in the 11 slot on the 14 pin connector. Those wires are used to tap into the highline cecm. Since I have a midline, I just electrical taped the wires to the harness for the "just incase factor"

So I only bought one OEM trigger wire (000979134) and cut it in half. I then plugged it into the 8-pin on the 10 pin connector. Then soldered that wire to the wire in the 11 pin slot on 14 pin connector.
Now the harness is complete.

The last step is to vagcom
Note: I did get a check main beam out warning at first. Then I was able to correct it.

How I coded and now I'm good to go.

Central elec 09
Byte 25 (84)
Bit 2 High Beam via Shutter active/installed (check)

Byte 17 (05)
Bit 2 Bi-xenon without additional High Beam (check)


If you don't check byte 17, you will get a Main light out warning. That was my initial problem, adding byte 25 is needed also.

I am now happy. Afs isn't something I really need. This is a great write up. I hope my contribution helps others as well.
 
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zrickety

zrickety

The Fixer
XGC75 said:
So has anyone with OEM housings had trouble with the projector assembly teeter-tottering around while driving? I think it's fallen off an up/down adjustment worm screw or something
Click to expand...
If these are similar to the MK5 bi-xenon, then yes you probably have one adjustment that popped off the worm screw ball. If you can get a couple fingers or a tool in there you can pull it toward you and pop it back on.
 
mycrors7

mycrors7

Go Kart Champion
There are two adjustments. Up down and side to side

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
XGC75

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
WetMoney said:
Ok so I have High Beams now!

It's was very simple. Simple enough, that I should have done this sooner.

I only needed the 000979134 wire since I have the Kufatec harness. There is already an existing wire in the 11 slot on the 14 pin connector. Those wires are used to tap into the highline cecm. Since I have a midline, I just electrical taped the wires to the harness for the "just incase factor"

So I only bought one OEM trigger wire (000979134) and cut it in half. I then plugged it into the 8-pin on the 10 pin connector. Then soldered that wire to the wire in the 11 pin slot on 14 pin connector.
Now the harness is complete.

The last step is to vagcom
Note: I did get a check main beam out warning at first. Then I was able to correct it.

How I coded and now I'm good to go.

Central elec 09
Byte 25 (84)
Bit 2 High Beam via Shutter active/installed (check)

Byte 17 (05)
Bit 2 Bi-xenon without additional High Beam (check)


If you don't check byte 17, you will get a Main light out warning. That was my initial problem, adding byte 25 is needed also.

I am now happy. Afs isn't something I really need. This is a great write up. I hope my contribution helps others as well.
Click to expand...

Nice! I'll have to add this to the OP.


zrickety said:
If these are similar to the MK5 bi-xenon, then yes you probably have one adjustment that popped off the worm screw ball. If you can get a couple fingers or a tool in there you can pull it toward you and pop it back on.
Click to expand...

That's what ended up happening. See next post...

butchered by autocorrecr
 
XGC75

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
XGC75 said:
Also, I figured out my broken passenger headlight. The whole projector assembly inside the housing was moving around. Whenever I accelerated it would tip the beam right up into the sky and when I braked it would fall back onto the ground. Fortunately I didn't need to drive at night these past few weeks.

Just yesterday I got the light out and was able to fix it. Turns out that the projector assembly had been jostled severely enough that it fell out of both a fulcrum fitting and the up/down adjustment guide.

The up/down adjustment guide is a ball and socket system, though the socket is more like a track in which the ball can slide around in. By pressing firmly enough on the right parts, I was able to get the ball back into the socket.

The fulcrum point was harder to reach but I managed to clip that back in there as well.

Here is the fulcrum point. It's hard to see but that black circular cutout is supposed to be on the white clip.


Reattached:


And here is the socket of the up/down adjustment guide, looking into the side of the turn signal bulb cover. It's a nice soft white plastic. Easy to pop back in with a bit of force.


Looking in from the HID bulb cover, that cylinder is the adjustment motor that has the ball on the end. It's been popped back in.


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Click to expand...

.

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