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APR Presents the 2.0 TSI ECU Update (Version 2.0!)

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
Sounds a lot like the issue I had, couple other people have posted about it as well. My fix for it was to switch tunes. APR will tell you to put in a support ticket. I'm not sure if APR has actually fixed this issue for anybody yet though. There's at least a couple people that posted in this thread that have the issue, are still running APR, and put in a ticket, but I haven't seen anybody saying their surgey 2.4 tune is now smooth or even that APR is working with them to fix it.

Not everybody has this issue, but if you do I'm pretty confident in saying it's an issue with the tune so you need to either get APR to fix it or move on from APR.

Just to confirm, switching to Stratified 100% cleared up the issue? So there's no sense trying stuff like replacing N75 or whatever?

edit: I hope the company that just bought APR can recognize what's going on and direct a bunch of resources into support and actively managing user issues.
 
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sterkrazzy

Autocross Champion
Just to confirm, switching to Stratified 100% cleared up the issue?

Yup, I didn't change a single thing except the tune and it cleared up all the issues I was having with the throttle. When I went WOT from cruising all of a sudden it would surge, you'd feel a couple pulses, and then it would pull hard. Just like you mentioned in your post. I had another issue where the throttle was really touchy at idle so it would make for some pretty jerky accelerating unless I really danced with the throttle and clutch.

I switched to stratified and everything was cleared up instantly.
 

peluconan

New member
Jerky v2.4 suffering owners, try next:

Do 3-4 runs from 1500 to redline at WOT, 3rd or 4th gear (as if you were datalogging) and check again.

I'm running v2.4 version, 93 high torque file (DSG transmission with 1.6 TCU APR software) on a Seat Leon TSI (same engine as Golf GTI VI). Today I was datalogging to send logs to APR support trying to find the issue. Previous to pulls, I checked the jerky behavior as usual (fast full throttle between 3000-5000rpm and...yes, hesitation was very present there). I did five different datalog runs as APR say, and when I was reading n75, boost, load around max. torque engine zone (custom log trying to see how n75 goes crazy trying to stabilize boost)....hesitation was gone!

Now car runs as v2.4 update day! smooth and strong at partial or full loads.

Maybe if you drive eco-friendly mode during days, with sporadic WOTS, ECU gones crazy with adaptation?

Km and days will say.

Boost control issue.

When rapidly going from cruise to WOT in gears 3 and higher, I'm still seeing a significant boost oscillation coupled by a surging feeling in acceleration. The needle on my boost gauge will spike to ~15 psi, come back to 12 psi, shoot up to 18 psi, the come back to 15 psi, then finally climb to or past 20 psi all in the space of 1.5 seconds or so, which makes the car feel incredibly laggy even at >3500 RPM.

It seems like there's way too much derivative gain on the boost PID control system. Excessive derivative gain can cause any control system to repeatedly undershoot and oscillate until steady-state is reached.

Anyone else observe something similar?

Try this :thumbsup:
 

[Old User]

Go Kart Champion
Getting a weird dip in power at 1/3 throttle around 3k rpm... feels like a sudden loss of boost then 200 rpm later it's back...

I agree it feels laggy/ boggy below 3500.


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Chatchie

Ready to race!
Getting a weird dip in power at 1/3 throttle around 3k rpm... feels like a sudden loss of boost then 200 rpm later it's back...

I agree it feels laggy/ boggy below 3500.


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This is what I've had since the beginning. People keep blaming the intake but it's not. It's cutting boost then bringing it back right away. I can hear the diverter valve let go when it surges.
 

Mk6 Steve

Ready to race!
I also have the same problem, the tune is fubar and I'm convinced no hardware upgrades will fix this. Hopefully APR can resolve this but I won't hold my breath....
 

thatspsychotic

Ready to race!
Try this :thumbsup:

I tried this when you first posted it, and it did make drivability better for about 2 days. Every time, it just goes back to the same shit. This tune just adapts incredibly poorly, and the boost control strategy is a gong show and was never addressed by what you suggested.

I've tried to stay positive and look for signs of hardware origins for the issues, or hold out hope for some recognition of remaining issues or another possible update. I also held out hope that maybe it was just my box code, but 1.) the boost oscillation is pretty clearly a poorly tuned PID control strategy, and 2.) even if there was a specific box code issue, the chances that it will be identified and addressed, without having to put down a bunch of money on APR Mobile or VAGCOM to get logs to prove the issues, are slim to none.

I used to advocate for APR and sing their praises, and at the very least give them the benefit of the doubt. But my patience has just about expired.
 

Noodle1

Ready to race!
So I got a reply from justin at apr saying

You're still the only person that’s sent in a ticket from that thread. If they don’t get an automated confirmation email from*support@goapr.com*then for some reason we did not get it. We cannot fix this without data, please have the others reach out

Everyone please reach out to apr, they didn't reply to me for a minute because my email was somehow mixed up. Thanks to Arin for helping me out too.

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2012TP

Drag Racing Champion
You're still the only person that’s sent in a ticket from that thread.
LOL.

Lets all complain on the forums that APR's tune is so bad and their customer service is non-existent, yet not even address the problem directly on their support system. Sounds about right :rolleyes:
 

Noodle1

Ready to race!
LOL.

Lets all complain on the forums that APR's tune is so bad and their customer service is non-existent, yet not even address the problem directly on their support system. Sounds about right :rolleyes:

Lol, I thought, how tf am I the only one with a support ticket. Idk, I would spam them untill i got a response
 

ahard48

Ready to race!
I bought the car used with APR stage 1 already loaded in April 2016, no idea what version I'm on. Could get the mobile dongle and check I suppose, but don't want to pay $150 to transfer into my name until I see some positive feedback because frankly this "old" tune seems okay at the moment...
 

tofuD01

Ready to race!
I don't seem to have much issues with my tune anymore per se, but it would be nice if the latest flash sent me details of which map is the high or low setting.

I'll just give my tuner a ring.

Wanting the pops and crackles can't constitute a support ticket right?
 

Noodle1

Ready to race!
I don't seem to have much issues with my tune anymore per se, but it would be nice if the latest flash sent me details of which map is the high or low setting.

I'll just give my tuner a ring.

Wanting the pops and crackles can't constitute a support ticket right?
I would and I did, it's a long shot but if enough of us send requests for crackles they might come through with it

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FF_animal

Ready to race!
I bought the car used with APR stage 1 already loaded in April 2016, no idea what version I'm on. Could get the mobile dongle and check I suppose, but don't want to pay $150 to transfer into my name until I see some positive feedback because frankly this "old" tune seems okay at the moment...



Call apr and provide them with your vin they will tell you which version and if you are high or low output.


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ahard48

Ready to race!
Call apr and provide them with your vin they will tell you which version and if you are high or low output.


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I did and they mentioned they only could see if the car was tuned or not. I'd have to go to an APR dealer and they would be able to tell me.
 
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