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Bringing an MK6 back from the grave - My Mk6 Story

flug2012

flug2012

Ready to race!
ToMMyGuN said:
Quick call for help - Could someone with a 4 door DSG take a pic of their fuse box w/ the cover off? I am trying to figure out the fuse/relay locations for a 4dr DSG gti, and would really appreciate some help; Could some one take a picture of the top-down view of the engine bay fuse box, then a pic from front to back showing the wires coming into the fuse junction? Like this:



If you do, I will give you so many virtual cookies/bacon you won't know what to do with all of your new found virtual cookies/bacon.

Thanks all!
Click to expand...

Tom,

Here are pics from my 2012 DSG 4dr. Hope it helps!ImageUploadedByTapatalk1353849021.555267.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1353849049.154801.jpg
 
F

freedomgli

Passed Driver's Ed
I would strongly consider replacing the entire engine room harness. Modern cars are very sensitive to very small differences in resistance due to non-original wiring splices and terminals. Save yourself the grief and do it all now while the car is apart. In fact, the only time most mfrs will allow anything less then a full replacement harness is when they have to do like 150k vehicles as part of a safety recall. Otherwise, for regular warranty stuff, they most often replace the entire harness to avoid repeat failures and dissatisfied customers.
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
freedomgli said:
I would strongly consider replacing the entire engine room harness. Modern cars are very sensitive to very small differences in resistance due to non-original wiring splices and terminals. Save yourself the grief and do it all now while the car is apart. In fact, the only time most mfrs will allow anything less then a full replacement harness is when they have to do like 150k vehicles as part of a safety recall. Otherwise, for regular warranty stuff, they most often replace the entire harness to avoid repeat failures and dissatisfied customers.
Click to expand...

I seriously considered this, but I am going to try splicing for two reasons:

1) because I found a fuse box with an original connector that has the wiring cut ~3" back (perfect for my situation)
2) the wiring harness is much more expensive than I thought it would be.

Most of the harness is actually in decent shape, and we would be talking micro- to milli-ohms of difference with the splice. The difficulty in replacing the entire harness is that I would *probably* have to lift the motor, and remove other things as well even beyond what I have already taken apart.

I am going to give it a shot, but replacing the entire harness is the back up plan!

Sent via tapatalk
 
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flug2012

flug2012

Ready to race!
freedomgli said:
I would strongly consider replacing the entire engine room harness. Modern cars are very sensitive to very small differences in resistance due to non-original wiring splices and terminals. Save yourself the grief and do it all now while the car is apart. In fact, the only time most mfrs will allow anything less then a full replacement harness is when they have to do like 150k vehicles as part of a safety recall. Otherwise, for regular warranty stuff, they most often replace the entire harness to avoid repeat failures and dissatisfied customers.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree with this... I think the wiring is not something to MacGyver on these cars... Your backup plan should be executed from the start IMHO.
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
flug2012 said:
I tend to agree with this... I think the wiring is not something to MacGyver on these cars... Your backup plan should be executed from the start IMHO.
Click to expand...

I won't be "MacGyver-ing" it, just connecting wires with the oem connectors, and only in a few spots. I will keep you guys updated when my fuse box/ 40 pin plug gets here, but right now 95% of the harness is perfect. I just need to reconnect the fuse box and a few other things like the headlight, fog light , etc

Sent via tapatalk
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
Update -

I replaced the master cylinder + brake servo/housing last night. What a pain working under the dash, on my back, with almost no room to wrench!

The issue I ran into is detaching the brake servo from the brake pedal. VW, in their infinite wisdom, makes you use a special (read:$40+) tool to disconnect the ball-end rod of the servo from the pedal. I tried using brute force, I tried making my own tool , and I tried swearing at it, all to no avail. Then I got the idea to just take out the brake pedal, which worked great because I already had the servo disassembled.

So it took about 2 hours of F'ing around with the pedal to get the damn thing out, and then 45 minutes to replace the entire brake servo/master cylinder/brake pedal assembly and put it all back together.

Progress!
 
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ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
Thought I could update with a few pics:

This is the master cylinder/brake servo (booster) that I replaced last night. What a pain, but it had to happen:


Updated pic of the engine bay/front. I put the engine cover back on (it does make me feel like I am moving in the right direction):


Here she is, in all her golfy glory (w/ a propane heater, it is cold in MN!):


Big 'ole parts pile:


My work area, riddled with more broken parts:


I really do like this rim design. I thought I would go for the Detroits for sure, but damn these Serron's have grown on me:


And finally, the beast I am replacing:

What a beauty. :bonk:

I have tomorrow and next monday off, hopefully I will get in all of the parts I need to make this thing run!
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
One more pic - the steering column *somewhat* torn appart:


When I was taking out the airbag, I found out the wiper stalk was also broken, so I dismantled the entire thing to get at the part. Turns out both the blinker/cruise stalk and the wiper stalk are one big assembly that fits around the steering shaft. Once I get the new stalk assembly, the column can finally be put back together.
 
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