Must-do's for K04 reinstall?

[vermontmk6]

After over a year of problems, I pulled the k04 on my 2013 Mk6 MT Autobahn to get the car inspected. Two shops did some things right and a lot of things wrong during the install process, have posted a few times about this. Went through three DV's, blown coils, boost leaks, busted COBB CAI intake mounts, lots of little issues. As much as I'd like to work my way through a build like Hyde16's, I simply want the k04 sorted out so I can enjoy it.

I have an estimate from ECS in Connecticut to do the reinstall and put a tune on with their in-house dyno. I have a COBB turbo-back exhaust, RSR Clutch Kit w/ Sachs flywheel good to 480 ft/lbs, fresh brakes and tires. I've had every turbo/boost/intake-related engine code in the book, replaced the PCV and intake manifold, and carbon cleaned. I do not want a LSD at this time, new motor mounts, or other non-essential hardware.

I would appreciate recommendations on what I should do to the car while they are doing the following.

Reinstalling: IE k04 turbo, 3bar sensor, Neuspeed turbo outlet pipe.
New parts install: Remove OEM and install AWE intercooler, IE cold-air intake, GFB DV+, plugs (gapped to .26?), R8 coils.

What other parts should I upgrade? Turbo Inlet Pipe?

How difficult is it to check timing chain revision? I'm not sure if 2013 model even needs to be checked?

I'm asking ECS to deliver the car inspectable in Vermont. Not sure what that is going to entail but what a PITA it was to mess around with spacers that never worked.

You have all been so helpful the last few years, and I'd appreciate if you could take a few minutes and respond. I'd love to get the car down to ECS in the next week or so.

 

[GolNat]

2013 should have the updated tensioning but I’d check. I have a 13 built in Nov/12 and it had an updated tensioner. I’d check for chain stretch tho.

 

[BudgetPhoenix]

Couldn't you have left the k04 on originally to fix those issues? It's not like it would have got in the way of fixing any of them.

 

[GIACUser]

After over a year of problems, I pulled the k04 on my 2013 Mk6 MT Autobahn to get the car inspected. Two shops did some things right and a lot of things wrong during the install process, have posted a few times about this. Went through three DV's, blown coils, boost leaks, busted COBB CAI intake mounts, lots of little issues. As much as I'd like to work my way through a build like Hyde16's, I simply want the k04 sorted out so I can enjoy it.

I have an estimate from ECS in Connecticut to do the reinstall and put a tune on with their in-house dyno. I have a COBB turbo-back exhaust, RSR Clutch Kit w/ Sachs flywheel good to 480 ft/lbs, fresh brakes and tires. I've had every turbo/boost/intake-related engine code in the book, replaced the PCV and intake manifold, and carbon cleaned. I do not want a LSD at this time, new motor mounts, or other non-essential hardware.

I would appreciate recommendations on what I should do to the car while they are doing the following.

Reinstalling: IE k04 turbo, 3bar sensor, Neuspeed turbo outlet pipe.
New parts install: Remove OEM and install AWE intercooler, IE cold-air intake, GFB DV+, plugs (gapped to .26?), R8 coils.

What other parts should I upgrade? Turbo Inlet Pipe?

How difficult is it to check timing chain revision? I'm not sure if 2013 model even needs to be checked?

I'm asking ECS to deliver the car inspectable in Vermont. Not sure what that is going to entail but what a PITA it was to mess around with spacers that never worked.

You have all been so helpful the last few years, and I'd appreciate if you could take a few minutes and respond. I'd love to get the car down to ECS in the next week or so.

Couple comments based on my first hand experience with K04 on FSI motor (not TSI) but all still applies
1. Don't do a custom dyno tune. Just buy one from APR, Unitronic, GIAC and do your build based on the tune and tune requirements for best outcome. They have tunes with tons more development, they just work, least hassle. Note - I personally like GIAC and Unitronic because you can for a small amount, purchase their loader, which allows you to load your own tune without going to shop. I ran GIAC tune and it was solid.
2. Nothing but problems with aftermarket DV, just stay oem. Worked perfectly on my 336whp K04 setup.

Again, choose your tune first, look at what hardware requirements they list and do your build accordingly. Adding upgraded piping between turbo and intake manifold is recommended for best top end performance but most tunes don't require it. This is all for best, most reliable outcome.

 

[Joe_Mama]

How difficult is it to check timing chain revision? I'm not sure if 2013 model even needs to be checked?

Not hard at all, you just gotta take off the front right wheel and there is a little rubber gasket plugging a viewing port. You use a pick to remove that and then you can visually inspect the tensioner.

2013 you should be good, im 2012 and i have the new tensioner. You can call the dealer, give your vin and they will tell you as well.

 

[vermontmk6]

Your build is great and you did the bottom end, awesome! I've run OTS COBB and Stratified tunes as well as custom Stratified tunes (no dyno) on the stock motor, and a Stratified base tune on the K04, which was just starting to wake the engine up. I own the COBB Access Port. I'm absolutely getting a custom dyno tune. ECS just did a Stage 3+ setup on a VW on their dyno that rips.I'm a Stratified guy, I like what their maps have done to the stock car, how they deal with boost and timing, and they can make a torque curve exactly how I want it. I understand and hear your point, absolutely a good idea for most people to buy an OTS tune. Part of why I'm choosing ECS is that they can finish the work and tune it right in the shop. Later on, when things settle down with the car, Stratified will have a go at it.

Good point about the stock DV. Shop likes the GFB DV+, which was my first upgrade on the car. Improper installation led to a lot of problems. Then the next DV I tried threw a code that the shop never found. I'll see what they say about staying with stock DV. I honestly don't know about stock DV at 23-ish lbs of boost but it does work for people. Off to look into that, thanks. I was going to start right off with WMI, sure glad I didn't and gives me something to look forward to.

 

[vermontmk6]

Couldn't you have left the k04 on originally to fix those issues? It's not like it would have got in the way of fixing any of them.

Probably, but an inspection sticker and a fresh start at a new shop with a dyno is what works for me right now. In hindsight, I could have gone to the dealer and had them APR Stage 3+ it in a week, pay too much, and be done with it back in 2018. Live and learn.