So obviously its a bit of a puzzle. If you're lowered, highly recommend running some negative camber or you'll most likely end up hitting your fenders. I've run anywhere from -0.5 to -2.5 with pretty average offsets. I have had several suspension set ups - DG springs on OEM struts and a few different coiler set ups set at different heights. My fenders were completely rolled out - there is no lip on the inside and the mounting tabs are all shaved. We kept the OEM body line and it looks almost OEM but its definitely pulled and rolled + repainted over the years.
I got curious myself so I rolled through some of my own wheel set ups.
Image dumps ahead.
OEM wheels with snow tires - so 18x7.5 et51 with 15/20mm spaces front/rear. Which brings the offset down to ET36/31. Snow tires were OEM sized - 225/40/18 but ran narrow. These were on DG springs/oem struts. I had to do the fender screw and lightly roll fenders front at this point.
19x8.5 ET35 on bilstien pss coilovers w/ 235/35/19 tires that ran pretty average sized. Coils were set on the bottom 1/3rd of adjustability. Required shaved fender liners front and rear, pulled/rolled front fenders and -2.5 camber to run these without rubbing. When I say that, I am referring to driving in anger at full lock and compression without getting any touching components. It took a lot of trial and error to figure that out... you can see it on the tires.
Current is 18x8.5 et41 on 225/40/18 - my tires run a bit large. I'm flush, but with brand new tires I'll definitely hit for the first few hundred miles until it gets shaved down a tiny bit. I could run slightly more camber to fix this and also probably fit a larger tire, but I'm also lowered pretty aggressively for what I want to do.