I'd keep it. You'll also lose the failsafe by removing the Aquamist kit won't you? I like to actually know my kit is working, along with the low level lights and failsafes and stuff. Just my opinion.
Thanks for looking out Nick. I wrestled with this decision for a while, but after having electrical issues for the past few years (randomly blown multiple 3 bar and 2.5bar MAP sensors, one N75, one bank 1 02 sensor) I’m left with the Aquamist connections to the ECU wiring harness and/or the second, newer ECU only flashed with an APR K04 file and more recently the Eurodyne BT file. There’s nothing else I can think of that could fry MAP sensors other than the wiring job we did years ago to install Aquamist.
Last night I disconnected the Aquamist wiring harness connections and power and I’ll install a new MAP sensor since the only code remaining before starting the engine is a boost sensor signal too low code. I think this means that it’s bad but we had a MAP sensor go bad when it was in the shop before I picked it up. I have a feeling it has to do with the Aquamist wiring or ECU as they did take the ECU out which could have shifted some wires around or shorted something if the Aquamist connections were not secure. With this troubleshooting, I’ll be removing the dash and glove box to remove the remaining Aquamist wiring and gauge which will then allow me access to the passenger side firewall to feed the Torqbyte wiring through easier.
In terms of water meth, I decided to try simplifying the fuel control and have the two Bosch twin spray port injectors and Aquamist water meth pump controlled by my Torqbyte CM5-LT unit (up to 4 PWM outputs). I’ll be re-using the Aquamist FAV to maintain a constant pump pressure but will lose the Aquamist flow sensor and level sensor in the gauge. I never let me meth tank run low as I have the Aquamist 5qt twin tank in the trunk so the level light on the Aquamist gauge is not a major loss. As for the failsaife, the Aquamist system was tied into the N75 but would not do anything since I’m using the Greddy Profec boost controller. The flow sensor or visual flow gauge is a loss but I’ve been looking at the AEM H20 flow gauge (shows up to 1,000cc/min) or the AEM failsafe H20 flow gauge thanks to Eric. If I go with the failsafe version I’ll figure out how to tie it into the Greddy wiring to dump boost but to be honest, with the two Bosch twin spray port injectors I should have more than enough fuel volume needed for the EFR 7163 turbo. At that point methanol would strictly be a conditioning agent for octane and cooling and the failsafe would be irrelevant.