PSA: P2015 after getting flashed/tuned fix (without getting a new manifold)

So within the past year I've had two or three people come to me with a P2015 code. All of these people I now remember saying that the code came up around the time they got flashed, if not immediately after. I would replace the manifold, code would go away, no problem. I didn't flash the cars, so I never really put together how quickly the two happened.

Fast forward to last week. I flashed my own car with a different file. Within like 5 minutes of driving I got a CEL with a P2015 code. I thought no way could the manifold be bad and found it eerily coincidental that it happened right after the flash, and then remembered the other people saying the code came up after flashing.

Anyway, I messed with the solenoid on the driver side, took everything apart over there, cycled the flapper arm, etc. Cleared the code like 10 times, and it would immediately come back as pending within seconds of driving. Always around 2000RPM, and around 33% load, which I'm assuming is when the flappers are supposed to be opening. Even though the code kept coming back, I still wasn't convinced the manifold was bad.

Found something through Ross-Tech's website (Vag-Com) on adapting the flappers.
Link HERE.

Went through the adaptation process, and BOOM. Fixed. No CEL, readiness set, and I've driven around with the basic setting block open and you can see the flappers go to 100% and back to 0 when they are supposed to.

There is a voltage constant that I'm assuming gets skewed during the flashing process, and the adaptation resets it. I've driven quite a bit since doing this and still no pending and solid CEL. Just figured I'd give everyone a heads up before you waste time buying/changing a manifold.

LONG STORY SHORT:
-CEL for P2015 after flashing?
-Go to VAG-COM, open engine, basic settings, block 142.
-With the engine idling, hit the ON button up top to start the process
-You'll see the flappers cycle, and it will say ADT OK
-Turn the engine off, wait 60 seconds, start the car and clear the codes
-Problem should be fixed

Thanks for the heads up. Is this something that tuning shops are possibly aware off? Does APR know about this?

I'm not sure who is aware of what. The manifolds I replaced were people that had gotten flashed at a shop (both APR and Uni), the P2015 code came up, and the shop then told them they needed a manifold. Needing a manifold isn't hard to believe since they are under an extended warranty as they tend to fail, but I'm just now figuring out that if the code comes up immediately after the flash it is adaptation related and not the actual manifold.

So safe to say, if you get that code Try adaptation first, then replace the manifold if needed.

When you re-flash do you leave a battery charger connected?
Every time I will re-flash I leave a battery charger or jump box connected and have never experienced the p2015 code.

jettaglis said:

When you re-flash do you leave a battery charger connected?
Every time I will re-flash I leave a battery charger or jump box connected and have never experienced the p2015 code.

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When I first got into this I used to use a battery charger while I flashed. With the being said, I've probably flashed my car 50+ times (not even kidding), with at least 45 of them without a charger and this is the first time I've personally had it happen.

Not sure what it is like with other tuners, but with Eurodyne the first time you flash takes ~15-20 minutes. Every subsequent flash takes less than a minute (aka I've had 1 20 minute flash, and 49+ 1 minute flashes). So, unless you have a dud of a battery, a 1 minute flash shouldn't kill the battery.

Either way, you do have a good theory! Could be part of it.

Do you know what box codes you have been able to do this on?
The AM box code on my car will not run runner flap adaptation with the k04 software. That,was true with v2.x and the v3.1 production and beta variants. Only time it would work is with stock software and the first v3 k04 release that was all hosed up with the "porting errors".
Tech support from the tuner was less than helpful.
Just a heads up in case you see one.

My box code is the only one I've tried it on, and it did work. The others I wish I would have known about this adaptation or I would have tried this first before changing the manifold.

My box code is 1K0907115AQ 0020 if it helps.

Well damn, good find man! Guess I may hang on to that manifold I brought home with me.... Quick note, I did not tender my battery while I was flashing that new stage 2 file prior to getting the p2015.

adamnapes said:

Well damn, good find man! Guess I may hang on to that manifold I brought home with me.... Quick note, I did not tender my battery while I was flashing that new stage 2 file prior to getting the p2015.

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Yea man I can't believe it. Crazy that is happened literally a week or two after yours. I wonder how many hundreds of manifolds have been replaced when they could have just been adapted.

Hm. I wonder if this would help my p2008 error.. I just replaced my intake because of a p2015, and did a valve cleaning, and now I have a p2008 error about intake runner bank1

Cryptic1911 said:

Hm. I wonder if this would help my p2008 error.. I just replaced my intake because of a p2015, and did a valve cleaning, and now I have a p2008 error about intake runner bank1

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Worth a shot. The process takes all of 30 seconds. Just remember to turn the car off afterwards.


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*****2.0t said:

Worth a shot. The process takes all of 30 seconds. Just remember to turn the car off afterwards.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Well, I went there and hit the on/off/whatever button, and it just sat at 2.4-2.7% on the flap act and the one on the right (sensor?) showed 0.0% and that it failed

I'm assuming the left box with the % is a sensor in the flapper actuator on the drivers side, and the % on the right is the sensor in the end of the intake that has the short harness stuffed behind the oil filter. I've always read that you can't change the sensors to fix the intake, but that little sensor is held in with 3 bolts?

Have you checked the wiring going between the ecu and the sensor on the manifold near the oil filter? I would bet you have a melted or broken wire there near the oil filter.

Cryptic1911 said:

Well, I went there and hit the on/off/whatever button, and it just sat at 2.4-2.7% on the flap act and the one on the right (sensor?) showed 0.0% and that it failed

I'm assuming the left box with the % is a sensor in the flapper actuator on the drivers side, and the % on the right is the sensor in the end of the intake that has the short harness stuffed behind the oil filter. I've always read that you can't change the sensors to fix the intake, but that little sensor is held in with 3 bolts?

Click to expand...

Did you do it with the car running? And what was the voltage in the (IIRC) 3rd box?

Mine, the left two boxes the numbers went up and back down and then it said ADT OK on the right. And the voltage constant changed from where it was when I first opened the block.

You can also leave that screen up while driving and when you go WOT and start to build boost you should see Actual and Requested go to 100% (opening the flaps).

You can change the sensor's independently, the passenger side sensor has three small torx screws. The issue is, you can't buy the sensors independently, so unless you have a spare manifold with a sensor you know is good you're out of luck.