TimNeedsCoffee10's Build Thread -

Had my windshield replaced today at Safelite Auto Glass in Massena NY. Had an outstanding experience with them, too.

Pictures of the cracked windshield are here: http://golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57634

My old windshield was part #: 5K0 845 011N NVB
My new windshield is part #: 5K0 845 011N

I think the difference is that my new windshield doesn't have the couple inches of tint along the top... that doesn't really bother me, though - I'm usually wearing sunglasses when I drive anyway, so I won't miss it.

They were pretty cool at the shop, let me hang out and take pictures, and explained everything they were doing and how some of the removal process works! Very professional, and attentive to detail. Here's some pictures of the process:

Setting up the cutting wire to remove the existing seal:


Plastic barriers to protect the dash from tool marks:


The ratchet device that pulls the cutting wire around the windshield:


And viola - no more windshield!


New urethane sealant all around (after cleaning and removing residue from the old one, of course)



New windshield in place:


They washed all my windows, and vacuumed the carpets!


And she looks good as ever, with her shiny new glass:


For what it's worth, here's what they invoiced back to my insurance company:
Windshield: $294.25
Parts: $40
Labor: $140.00
--------------------
Sub Total: 474.25
Tax: 33.20

Total: $507.45

The guy said if I used safelite glass instead, it would have been $75-$100 cheaper.

Good. i need to get my wife's car's windshield replaced soon...BIG ole crack in it. Sounds like safelite is the way to go.

My Optima Red 35 came in today - so I popped that in this afternoon. Fit pretty well ... my stock battery dimensions are 9.5" W x 6.5" D x 7.5" H. The Optima 35 is up to half an inch smaller in all dimensions, so I wasn't worried about it fitting in stock battery tray, anyway.

What threw it off a bit was the placement of the notches along the bottom edge for the battery hold-down plate. If I scooted the battery all the way back, the negative terminal cable was blocking the upper lid from it's rear latches, and if I scooted it one notch forward, the positive terminal cable did the same for the front latches! So I just snugged her down good 'n tight right in the middle. We'll see how she does.

Fit's well and everything closes up like stock, though!

Well the Unibrace Group Buy is on.... damnit! So that put my RB on the list of things to do this Spring; which has me thinking about suspension mods ahead of schedule.

I'm not really a suspension guy. I'm thrilled with the handling improvements I've gotten from my SPM Mounts and Unibrace XB+UB combo. The RB will round out the Unibrace chassis stiffening.

But now I'm wondering if I should bump springs up in the schedule too?

I'm leaning towards those fancy looking SPM springs. Not a lot of info floating around about them, so I'm happy to be a guinnea pig; but I expect similar results to those running VWR and DriveGear.

Not sure what else I should do while I'm there, though -- so I want to be sure I do my research before I make any impulse buys... Strut mounts and bearings are a must, of course.

Must ... restrain ... close ... wallet ...

Updated my build plan stages in the OP... started calling them "phases" to avoid confusion with tune stages.

I think a flow for the build has started to come into place, so I've labelled my phases as "experimenting", "getting serious", "power" and "handling" to highlight their objectives. Also, with the RB all but a done deal, I formalized my phase 4 (handling) list, and will update/modify it as I research things.

update 04/15: these are spoken for! Thanks for the interest

edit: damn group buys. OK - so now I'm serious, someone buy these. I'll post it in the classifieds once the group buy completes, and I have those boxes to package these up in. But they're for sale.

I want the red Unibrace setup but currently have the black XB and UB. Will sell them, with nutsert tool (used) and all install hardware (new), for $475 shipped (group buy price is $280 XB, $280 UB, $35 Nutsert = $595 shipped)

The deal would be that I'll buy the red ones in the group buy. As soon as they arrive, I swap out my black braces for the red braces, throw in my nutsert tool, close em up, and ship em out to you. So you get the used XB and UB, with all new install hardware, and a nutsert tool for the XB, for less than the group buy!

Swapped out my BKR7EIX plugs for PFR7B's this afternoon -- what an incredible difference that makes. Engine is smoother, idles better, and pulls harder. I think my old plugs were at the end of useful life anyway (which is surprising, because it's only been 20k miles), but I'm still shocked at the difference in drivability. I'm sure a lot of it has to do with matching it to the APR K04 tune, as well - Arin has said these are the plugs they tune against, and the plugs they ship in their kits...

Anyway - here's what my old BKR7EIX's looked like after 20k on APR Stage 2

Welp... It's official. Phase 4 is underway! My RB will ship soon, and I just ordered the SPM springs. I'm going to pick up the 034 strut mounts, and do all that at the same time.

Anyone have thoughts on struts? Is it with getting a mild upgrade to something like Koni Yellows?

Want to make sure this is a one-time project

I've heard the bilsteins are where its at.

I looked at Grambles setup before he sold it and they are a work of art.

If you need damping control go.konis.

If you just want to set and forget it, bilsteins.

A_Bowers said:

I've heard the bilsteins are where its at.

I looked at Grambles setup before he sold it and they are a work of art.

If you need damping control go.konis.

If you just want to set and forget it, bilsteins.

Click to expand...

"Set and forget" sounds like coil overs? Not looking for super low; just better damping control with the SPM springs over stock. This is a functional, not aesthetic project... And looking to keep costs under control of course .

timneedscoffee10 said:

"Set and forget" sounds like coil overs? Not looking for super low; just better damping control with the SPM springs over stock. This is a functional, not aesthetic project... And looking to keep costs under control of course .

Click to expand...

Yeah, the bilstein struts are just uprated dampers geared towards mildy dropped vehicles. With the SPM springs, they would work great.

There is no fiddling with ride height, or damping or stuff like that. Bolt it together, and done.

I guess that is what i was saying when i said "Set and forget"

A_Bowers said:

Yeah, the bilstein struts are just uprated dampers geared towards mildy dropped vehicles. With the SPM springs, they would work great.

There is no fiddling with ride height, or damping or stuff like that. Bolt it together, and done.

I guess that is what i was saying when i said "Set and forget"

Click to expand...

Gotchya - I'll check 'em out!

Met up with Issam @ INA Engineering in Ottawa, ON today to make plans for the car -- I'm leaving it with him the week of 4/28-5/4 while I'm away on business. Here's the to-do list:

• SouthBend Stage 3 Daily Silent w/ SMFW
• Timing chain tensioner
• Timing chain guide rails (upper and lower)
• Throw out bearing

So after that, not only should I have all my K04 power at the ready (after the requisite break-in period, of course), but I won't have a lot of worry left for common failure points moving forward. I'm not terribly concerned about the timing chain guides, but for the amount of work he's doing, we might as well while we're in there for the extra $83 in parts its going to cost.

Walking into his shop and seeing a stack of SB clutches going into a variety of cars, and then walking up stairs to his office which is occupied by a TSI engine just sort of hanging around, was all quite comforting and amusing . Issam will be the first person other than me to do any mechanical and/or maintenance work on this car since I took delivery ... leaving her in good hands

Had an overboost today, and entered limp-mode with no CEL. There were also misfires on cylinders 3 and 4, but I believe those are unrelated (misfires were at idle, overboost at cruising speed under low-load but high rpms 20 minutes later).

After doing a bunch of research most of the night, I'm thinking there are two likely scenarios, here - in order of plausibility:

1. Gremlin; likely won't recur. Car could still be adjusting values for the new, properly gapped plugs or still figuring out its new abilities.
2. N75 valve -- I bought and installed a used K04, it's been packaged and shipped twice, and already had 7k miles on it. Could have damaged the N75 valve. Easy fix - will have it swapped out while the engine is out of the car in two weeks anyway
3. DV Valve - unlikely, as Bruh Man (who I bought it from) was running this DV valve until he pulled it to ship to me with the K04 he never installed... so it was working fine (presumably)

I posted about it originally, here, but I'm going to let that thread die -- I'll save talking-to-myself for this thread instead .

A_Bowers said:

Yeah, the bilstein struts are just uprated dampers geared towards mildy dropped vehicles. With the SPM springs, they would work great.

There is no fiddling with ride height, or damping or stuff like that. Bolt it together, and done.

I guess that is what i was saying when i said "Set and forget"

Click to expand...

So the more I read - I'm getting concerned that Bilstein will be too rough for DD... looks like the Koni Yellows are going to be a good upgrade and retain more ride comfort. Leaning towards those at the moment. The Bilsteins are very well reviewed and seem to be generally considered "better" - but better performance is harsher ride quality .

So I'm thinking: Koni Yellow, TT Strut Mounts, and SPM Springs (already ordered). If I need better handling/cornering after that, I'll start thinking sway bars.