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What did you do to your MK6 today?

Speeddemon691

Go Kart Champion
Love it! The sounds are great, and the car is hitting higher peak boosts and holding boost much better. The butt dyno says it's pulling harder, too. Drove around for a while to give the ECU time to adjust to the higher flow rates.



Install was really easy, the only real problem I had was getting the damn stock turbo coupling hose off. I swear, that damned clamp was the bane of my existence. It didn't help that I dropped the damned hose clamp pliers while trying to get the thing off and had to fish them out from deep in the engine bay! :mad0259:







But I laughed my ass off and managed to fish them out after a while with a straightened wire hanger.



The instructions say you need an 8mm triple square to remove the stock pipe from the heat shield, but that was wrong on my car - it was a T25 bolt.



One thing that would have helped to know beforehand is that once the bolt is off connecting the stage two intake pipe to the heat shield, you can easily twist and rotate the pipe toward the front of the car which makes it way easier to get to those rear hose clamps. Also, the IE directions say to just remove the lower clamp and take the whole thing out at once - I found it easier to remove the upper clamp and the pipe first, giving you way more room to get to the lower clamp on the coupler that goes to the turbo inlet.



I managed to get the PCV breather off without breaking it - you can use the plac method of putting toothpicks under each side so they don't clamp down, or you can just be patient. I used a small flat screwdriver to loosen the alternating sides and just slowly released it with very small movements. It took about ten minutes to do, but it can be done without damaging the clips.



Also, IE says to put the reducing coupler on the pipe before attaching it to the turbo. Again, I found it MUCH easier to attach the reducing coupler to the turbo and clamp that down before connecting the intake pipe and clamping it down. It also allows you to visually see that the reducing coupler is seated well, since you can see the turbo inlet coming up inside the hose.


one install tip that I came up with was remove coil pack #3 and unscrew the one bolt that connects the Pcv hose to the Pcv system that slides into the Pcv, with that out I was able to remove the stock intake pipe with the Pcv hose still attached to the intake pipe. From there it's easier to remove when completely out of the car. It's only two sides that holds the Pcv pipe to the intake. I used two picks and pulled it right off.

And I also installed the coupler to the turbo first and then the intake pipe into that, that let's you see if your doing it right or not.

For me the bolt that holds the stock intake to the heat shield was a torx 30.

And yes I did it with the hose clamp pliers below. If not I would of probably been swearing and breaking shit trying to remove the stock rubber coupler from the turbo.





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uglybastard

Autocross Champion
one install tip that I came up with was remove coil pack #3 and unscrew the one bolt that connects the Pcv hose to the Pcv system that slides into the Pcv, with that out I was able to remove the stock intake pipe with the Pcv hose still attached to the intake pipe. From there it's easier to remove when completely out of the car. It's only two sides that holds the Pcv pipe to the intake. I used two picks and pulled it right off.

And I also installed the coupler to the turbo first and then the intake pipe into that, that let's you see if your doing it right or not.

For me the bolt that holds the stock intake to the heat shield was a torx 30.

And yes I did it with the hose clamp pliers below. If not I would of probably been swearing and breaking shit trying to remove the stock rubber coupler from the turbo.





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i used channel lock pliers
 

Brunkel

Go Kart Champion
one install tip that I came up with was remove coil pack #3 and unscrew the one bolt that connects the Pcv hose to the Pcv system that slides into the Pcv, with that out I was able to remove the stock intake pipe with the Pcv hose still attached to the intake pipe. From there it's easier to remove when completely out of the car. It's only two sides that holds the Pcv pipe to the intake. I used two picks and pulled it right off.

And I also installed the coupler to the turbo first and then the intake pipe into that, that let's you see if your doing it right or not.

For me the bolt that holds the stock intake to the heat shield was a torx 30.

And yes I did it with the hose clamp pliers below. If not I would of probably been swearing and breaking shit trying to remove the stock rubber coupler from the turbo.





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Dang't. This forum not only makes me blow money on car parts...but tools as well! Well, and Amazon prime doesn't make it any easier too...just added these pliers to the cart.


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zrickety

The Fixer
I do the clamps in the order you just described with my channel locks. Those are tempting though.
 

Speeddemon691

Go Kart Champion
While those work, it can get a little sketchy if the ring slips off & flies out



I finally tried using those hose clamp pliers, and they made life A LOT easier


Yes I total agree with you. I've had that happen and it's not pretty. And if it doesn't go flying to your face it'll get you in the hand and let me tell you, your going to feel it.

Dang't. This forum not only makes me blow money on car parts...but tools as well! Well, and Amazon prime doesn't make it any easier too...just added these pliers to the cart.


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Lol same thing happens to me. Damn Prime makes you just want to buy random stuff sometimes lol.

Yeah last time I removed my intake I used channel locks and it was fine. That's why I'm saying this forum is bad news! Lol.


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While it maybe fine there is nothing better for safety and time and cursing than using the right tool.




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SELA_MK6GTI

Go Kart Champion
Went WOT today lol





Eurodyne stage 2 tune|Autotech dogbone insert|FK street lines coilovers|Rev D dv|Manzo eBay Dp|custom 3" catback|P-flo intake|R8 coils
 
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