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master water/meth discussion thread

Sauce118

Ready to race!
my aquamist hfs4 just arrived and I have next week planned for the install. Once the installation is complete, the complexity begins.... What does everyone recommend as a starting mixture? can I just throw in boost juice (50/50) to start out to get a general idea of the logs/numbers?? Thanks in advance for the help and I'm sure in the next few weeks to come I will have many more questions.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
^listen to this man. I run 80/20

Okay. I get 93 here in PA or in DC, the two places I drive most. . Would you still recommend the same?
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
Also,

What size jets are you guys running in the manifold? As you can see in my signature I am k04 w/ stock intake manifold. I am planning on tapping into the stock manifold, although the IE manifold did jump at me, but I didn't pull the trigger on that one.

And if any of you have any advice or pointers as far as the install goes, I'm open ears(eyes).
 
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HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
Also,

What size jets are you guys running in the manifold? As you can see in my signature I am k04 w/ stock intake manifold. I am planning on tapping into the stock manifold, although the IE manifold did jump at me, but I didn't pull the trigger on that one.

And if any of you have any advice or pointers as far as the install goes, I'm open ears(eyes).

I run 80/20 with 93 pump, always run the best gas available with or without methanol.

K04 I ran 0.6mm direct port jets and ran the APR V3.2 100 octane file daily without any CF/timing correction.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
I run 80/20 with 93 pump, always run the best gas available with or without methanol.

K04 I ran 0.6mm direct port jets and ran the APR V3.2 100 octane file daily without any CF/timing correction.[/QUOTE

Nice, that's exactly what I'm planning on doing. I am pretty confident on the install process, more worried about the tuning/setup process of the system. I have always used off the shelf tunes (APR) so although I have logged several times, I would still consider myself a novice for sure. So that part will be challenging for me I'm sure. I am trying to do as much research as possible before even getting started.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
So everything installed and loosely dialed in. I was like 2 inches too short so I had to search all around the city for a piece of plastic fuel line. So you can see in the pictures the line with the yellow heat shrink will be replaced as soon as the additional 4mm line I ordered from aquamist. I ran the line from the pump in the trunk under the car right next to the fuel line (there's even an open spot along most of the way in the clamp). I put my controller in the glove box. I know most people install it inside the passenger fuse panel but I ran my wires through there and into the glove box, which works better for me. Overall I couldn't be happier with the quality, customer service, research, and results from the HFS-4. It is a fairly extensive install, but I did it in 4 days about 10 hrs a day. I also cleaned my valves. Had to wait for dealer to open to purchase injector overhaul kit and a bunch of other repairs/PM. I am still in the very beginning stages of dialing in the system and logging results. I have logged several times before but I still consider myself a novice in that dept. so I will be doing a lot of research. Thanks U20T for posting the CCTA ECU plug pin #s. I was not 100% sure and I saw what u posted and it confirmed. And HYDEs YouTube video of his set up pointed me in the right direction for the settings on the board to start from ground zero.

CLICK ON "MY OUT-DATED BUILD" LINK IN MY SIGNATIRE TO SEE THE PICTURES. . I can never get these freakin pictures to show in the post.
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
So everything installed and loosely dialed in. I was like 2 inches too short so I had to search all around the city for a piece of plastic fuel line. So you can see in the pictures the line with the yellow heat shrink will be replaced as soon as the additional 4mm line I ordered from aquamist. I ran the line from the pump in the trunk under the car right next to the fuel line (there's even an open spot along most of the way in the clamp). I put my controller in the glove box. I know most people install it inside the passenger fuse panel but I ran my wires through there and into the glove box, which works better for me. Overall I couldn't be happier with the quality, customer service, research, and results from the HFS-4. It is a fairly extensive install, but I did it in 4 days about 10 hrs a day. I also cleaned my valves. Had to wait for dealer to open to purchase injector overhaul kit and a bunch of other repairs/PM. I am still in the very beginning stages of dialing in the system and logging results. I have logged several times before but I still consider myself a novice in that dept. so I will be doing a lot of research. Thanks U20T for posting the CCTA ECU plug pin #s. I was not 100% sure and I saw what u posted and it confirmed. And HYDEs YouTube video of his set up pointed me in the right direction for the settings on the board to start from ground zero.

CLICK ON "MY OUT-DATED BUILD" LINK IN MY SIGNATIRE TO SEE THE PICTURES. . I can never get these freakin pictures to show in the post.

What size jets do you run and how many? I have an updated settings guide that I send to people. PM me your email and I'll send.
 

U-20T

Go Kart Champion
So everything installed and loosely dialed in. I was like 2 inches too short so I had to search all around the city for a piece of plastic fuel line. So you can see in the pictures the line with the yellow heat shrink will be replaced as soon as the additional 4mm line I ordered from aquamist. I ran the line from the pump in the trunk under the car right next to the fuel line (there's even an open spot along most of the way in the clamp). I put my controller in the glove box. I know most people install it inside the passenger fuse panel but I ran my wires through there and into the glove box, which works better for me. Overall I couldn't be happier with the quality, customer service, research, and results from the HFS-4. It is a fairly extensive install, but I did it in 4 days about 10 hrs a day. I also cleaned my valves. Had to wait for dealer to open to purchase injector overhaul kit and a bunch of other repairs/PM. I am still in the very beginning stages of dialing in the system and logging results. I have logged several times before but I still consider myself a novice in that dept. so I will be doing a lot of research. Thanks U20T for posting the CCTA ECU plug pin #s. I was not 100% sure and I saw what u posted and it confirmed. And HYDEs YouTube video of his set up pointed me in the right direction for the settings on the board to start from ground zero.

CLICK ON "MY OUT-DATED BUILD" LINK IN MY SIGNATIRE TO SEE THE PICTURES. . I can never get these freakin pictures to show in the post.

:w00t:
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
What size jets do you run and how many? I have an updated settings guide that I send to people. PM me your email and I'll send.

THE DIRECT PORTS ARE .6's AND THE THROTTLE BODY PIPE BUNG IS A .4. I AM NOT RUNNING ANYTHING PRE-TURBO. I KNOW LITTLE ABOUT THE GAINS OF A PRE-TURBO SO I NEED TO DO MORE RESEARCH PRIOR TO DECIDING WHETHER I WANT TO DO THAT OR NOT. UNLESS YOU GUYS HAVE A STRONG RECOMMENDATION.

HYDE,
I AM EXTREMELY INTERESTED IN ORDERING THE 90* JETS. IT WOULD ENABLE ME TO RUN SIGNIFICANTLY SHORTER HOSE LENGTHS OUT OF THE HEX MANIFOLD. RIGHT NOW I HAVE TO KEEP THEM "LOOSE" SO THEY WONT KINK AT THE CONNECTION POINTS. DID YOU GET YOURS FROM HOWERTON OR AQUAMIST-DIRECT?

RIGHT NOW I HAVE IT DIALED IN SO I AM PULLING BETWEEN 2-3 DEGREES OF TIMING RUNNING THE 100 OCT FILE. THE CAR IS MUCH MORE AGRESSIVE ON THAT MAP AND IT MAKES ME SMILE ALL DAY KNOWING I CAN CONSTANTLY RUN THAT FILE. I AM STILL RESEARCHING, LOGGING, AND SUCH TO TRY AND GET MY TIMING PULL DOWN TO 0*, AS MANY OF YOU HAVE ALREADY ACCOMPLISHED.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
HYDE,
I AM EXTREMELY INTERESTED IN ORDERING THE 90* JETS. IT WOULD ENABLE ME TO RUN SIGNIFICANTLY SHORTER HOSE LENGTHS OUT OF THE HEX MANIFOLD. RIGHT NOW I HAVE TO KEEP THEM "LOOSE" SO THEY WONT KINK AT THE CONNECTION POINTS. DID YOU GET YOURS FROM HOWERTON OR AQUAMIST-DIRECT?

I WAS ABLE TO FIND THEM ON THE HOWERTON WEBSITE. NORMALLY THEY ARE NOT LISTED ON THERE, OR ATLEAS I HAVENT BEEN ABLE TO FIND THEM. BUT I ORDERED THEM ALREADY. THIS WILL REDUCE THE FLUID TRAVEL OF EACH HOSE FROM THE HEX MAN. TO THE MANIFOLD BY 2-3 INCHES EACH LINE. (AT LEAST) RICHARD SEEMED TO STRESS THE IDEA OF KEEPING THE LINES FROM THE HEX MANIFOLD LITERALLY AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE. ALTHOUGH I KNOW PEOPLE GET GREAT RESULTS WITH THE SAME SET-UP I AM CURRENTLY RUNNING, I ALSO THINK THE 90's MAKE IT LOOK MORE OFFICIAL.
 

Sauce118

Ready to race!
After I spread the graphs out. It seems I am pulling more timing than I originally thought. My question is.... to reduce timing retarding do I need to spray more (set gain to spray more through the whole curve. Or do I need to mix a stronger cocktail? Perhaps go 75/25 instead of 50/50. I am willing to do the work and research but there isn't much info about tuning water meth systems.
 

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
After I spread the graphs out. It seems I am pulling more timing than I originally thought. My question is.... to reduce timing retarding do I need to spray more (set gain to spray more through the whole curve. Or do I need to mix a stronger cocktail? Perhaps go 75/25 instead of 50/50. I am willing to do the work and research but there isn't much info about tuning water meth systems.

Leave your 50/50 mix for now. If you haven't touched your pump you're at 165psi, with your start on MPS, trigger point set (certain psi) and P/I-R set 100% IDC you can only increase GAIN or start your trigger point earlier depending on where it's set now. On my K04 100 octane file, boost ramped up after 4K RPM due to the tune, I found that I was already in the teens in terms of boost before timing really ramped up. I set my trigger to start at around 8psi to start some cooling then increased GAIN to provide more progressive flow to cover any timing correction. I would dial in your start to a boost level you won't hit driving normally around town (8-10psi), then from that point GAIN will control the progressive increase in flow (technically starting the flow curve earlier or later). After you're happy with the start/trigger point, log again then increase GAIN slightly and log again. Continue increasing GAIN until it's covered. Don't touch your mix until you fully play with the range of settings on the HFS-4.
 
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