Rebuilding a 2.0 TSI after timing failure at 173k *ON A BUDGET* (less than $1k spent) - And Then Balance Shafts 2 Years Later

[MrFancypants]

WHAT'S THAT MK5 DOING HERE GET THE F OUT AND GO BACK TO YOUR PEOPLE

(/s)

 

[zrickety]

WHAT'S THAT MK5 DOING HERE GET THE F OUT AND GO BACK TO YOUR PEOPLE

(/s)

Yes, the 09 was a transition year. This is an mkv that is mk6 under the skin.

 

[zrickety]

Back at it. Some of the rocker rollers have a small indentation at the outside edge from the bent valves...a little odd as they usually ride in the middle. I don't think it will be an issue, but I want to document it as something to look for. I came across another timing pic that includes some torque specs, however they are in Nm.
View attachment 163929
And here is a rundown of the assembly process:
Installation

• Ensure crankshaft at TDC on No.1 cylinder.
• Flat section on crankshaft must be in horizontal position 30.
• Ensure camshaft adjuster holding tool correctly fitted 24.
• Ensure camshaft sprocket holding tool correctly fitted 26.
• Mark 12 o'clock position on cylinder block 30.
• Mark tooth on crankshaft sprocket that aligns with mark on rear of crankshaft sprocket 31.
• Ensure timing marks of balancer shaft gears aligned 32.
• Ensure timing mark on each balancer shaft sprocket positioned as shown 33.
• Install balancer shaft chain.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain links aligned with timing mark on each balancer shaft sprocket 33.
• Install balancer shaft upper chain guide.
• Place timing chain on ends of camshafts as shown 28.
• Install crankshaft sprocket and oil pump chain as an assembly.
• Ensure timing mark on crankshaft sprocket aligned with timing mark on cylinder block 34.
• Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool 8.
• Tighten bolt of crankshaft sprocket holding tool to secure crankshaft sprocket to crankshaft 7.
• Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
• Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10. Tighten crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut finger tight.
• Fit balancer shaft chain to crankshaft sprocket.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on crankshaft sprocket 35.
• Install balancer shaft lower chain guide and tensioner rail.
• Install balancer shaft chain tensioner 29.
• Install timing chain to camshaft adjuster and camshaft sprocket.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft sprocket 2.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft adjuster 3.
• Fit timing chain to crankshaft sprocket.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on crankshaft sprocket 36.
• Fit timing chain guides.
• Hold exhaust camshaft with spanner on hexagon behind sprocket 27.
• Remove camshaft sprocket holding tool 26.
• Rotate exhaust camshaft anti-clockwise using spanner on hexagon until timing chain in contact with upper chain guide.
• Continue to hold exhaust camshaft.
• Install timing chain tensioner and tensioner rail.
• If necessary, turn inlet camshaft anti-clockwise using spanner on hexagon behind camshaft adjuster, until camshaft adjuster holding tool can be removed 24 & 25.
• Remove tensioner locking tool or pin to release timing chain tensioner plunger 20 or 23.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft sprocket 2.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on camshaft adjuster 3.
• Ensure coloured or painted chain link aligned with timing mark on crankshaft sprocket 36.
• Install oil pump chain tensioner 14.
• Remove oil pump chain tensioner locking pin 16.
• Fit camshaft support bracket 13.
• Install inlet camshaft adjuster control valve (LH thread) 11. Tightening torque: 35 Nm.
• Install exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt and washer 12.
• Turn crankshaft 2 turns clockwise to TDC on No.1 cylinder. Use dial gauge.
• Install lower timing chain cover.
• Install crankshaft pulley as follows:
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
  • Ensure plain segment on crankshaft sprocket at 12 o'clock position 37.
  • Install crankshaft pulley.
  • Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
    Note: Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter with hexagon facing crankshaft sprocket.
  • Install crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10. Tighten crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut finger tight.
  • Install crankshaft pulley holding tool 4.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool nut 10.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool adapter 9.
  • Remove crankshaft sprocket holding tool 8.
  • Fit new crankshaft pulley bolt. Finger tighten bolt.
  • Remove crankshaft pulley holding tool 4.
  • Tighten crankshaft pulley bolt to 150 Nm + 90 °.
• Checking valve timing:
  • Ensure engine at TDC on No.1 cylinder. Use dial gauge.
  • Ensure crankshaft pulley timing mark aligned with timing mark on chain cover 1.
  • Ensure timing mark on camshaft sprocket positioned as shown 2.
  • Ensure timing mark on camshaft adjuster positioned as shown 3.
  • Check measurement between outer edge of raised cast section on upper chain guide and timing mark on inlet camshaft adjuster is 61 - 64 mm 38 & 39.
    Note: If measurement outside tolerance, repeat timing chain installation procedure.
  • Check measurement between inlet camshaft adjuster timing mark and exhaust camshaft sprocket timing mark is 124 - 126 mm 40.
    Note: If measurement outside tolerance, repeat timing chain installation procedure.

This post coming in handy again as I pull apart for the head gasket. Car was running great until I caned it at autox...

 

[zrickety]

I pulled the turbo the other day (seems ok) and pulled the timing cover today. It looks the balance shaft chain broke, this is a new issue.
I will dig into it more this afternoon and post pics.

 

[zrickety]

So the intake balance shaft seized, you can see debris in the little screens. The transfer sprocket broke and the chain. It drives the water pump at the other end, and explains my overheating issue. The exhaust side still turns but I'm getting the special tool (T10394) to pull it. They recommend replacing these in pairs. Camshaft timing and chain were still good, that was lucky.
Once again I'm looking to save money, so instead of ~$600+ for oem balance shafts I've spent $150 on ebay.
Lubeck shafts https://www.ebay.com/itm/264957118846 (KIT 1404, replaces 06H198205N)
Got a lower timing chain and sprocket coming from ECS $145 shipped.
Febi Bilstein timing chain lower 06K109158BS
Hamburg Tech intermediate drive sprocket 06H103319Q
Balance shaft puller $41 shipped https://www.ebay.com/itm/334118390685
Total $336 and I hope to have it running again in a couple weeks.

Humble mechanic mentions this common issue.

 

[Roadrunner_GTI]

So the intake balance shaft seized, you can see debris in the little screens. The transfer sprocket broke and the chain. The exhaust side still turns but I'm getting the special tool (T10394) to pull it. They recommend replacing these in pairs. Camshaft timing and chain were still good.
Once again I'm looking to save money, so instead of ~$600+ for oem balance shafts I've spent $150 on ebay.
Lubeck shafts https://www.ebay.com/itm/264957118846
Got a Febi lower chain coming from ECS $78 shipped and HT sprocket $67 shipped.
Balance shaft puller $41 shipped https://www.ebay.com/itm/334118390685
Total $336 and I hope to have it running again in a couple weeks. Internet issues right now, here are some links to pics.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ptNirG3u2gfcFR72cJO0YvpuVJ3dF2Db/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pmxhWzk_B_u2SG2g4pROFl5ipCW-Visg/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pgS5FEMo7dbmJUTelYSoIAh2MnzaKtkQ/view?usp=sharing

Humble mechanic mentions this common issue.

You don’t need the balance shaft puller with a bit of patience. I just pulled mine and it wasn’t bad. When you did the timing chains did you pull them to inspect the screens then?

The factory manual says to replace the balance shafts if you remove them, but I have no clue why because they reinstall pretty easily. I just checked mine and the screens were all clean so I plan to reuse them.

FYI the intake balance shaft idler gear bolt is a TTY and will need to be replaced.

 

[zrickety]

You don’t need the balance shaft puller with a bit of patience. I just pulled mine and it wasn’t bad. When you did the timing chains did you pull them to inspect the screens then?

The factory manual says to replace the balance shafts if you remove them, but I have no clue why because they reinstall pretty easily. I just checked mine and the screens were all clean so I plan to reuse them.

FYI the intake balance shaft idler gear bolt is a TTY and will need to be replaced.

No, I never thought to pull them when the tensioner failed. I tried pulling the exhaust side yesterday, it's just too tight. The workshop manual mentions freezing the balance shaft for install if it doesn't fit. The intake side was easy by comparison, it helps that I could tap on the water pump end.

 

[Grabbit]

A subtle PSA based on my experience...... Get a magnetic drain plug. I was running one before I did my balance shafts and never really picked up anything significant. When I had the car down for K04 upgrade I ended up having to replace the head at the same time. That's when I decided to proactively replace the balance shafts for piece of mind, and because the car was getting a whole slew of new parts..... (HD valve springs, new clutches, LSD, etc). After I did all of this work I noticed I picked up some very fine filings on the first oil change about 1k later. This could be balance shafts breaking in, could be from the valve springs, I have no idea.... I got about a pea-sized amount of filings at the tip of the magnet. I kept changing the oil at a 3k mile interval after that and the filings eventually went down to a trace amount. I think I'm on about the 5th oil change since then and the engine runs good, no oil pressure issues and I've done about 25k miles since.

 

[zrickety]

A subtle PSA based on my experience...... Get a magnetic drain plug. I was running one before I did my balance shafts and never really picked up anything significant. When I had the car down for K04 upgrade I ended up having to replace the head at the same time. That's when I decided to proactively replace the balance shafts for piece of mind, and because the car was getting a whole slew of new parts..... (HD valve springs, new clutches, LSD, etc). After I did all of this work I noticed I picked up some very fine filings on the first oil change about 1k later. This could be balance shafts breaking in, could be from the valve springs, I have no idea.... I got about a pea-sized amount of filings at the tip of the magnet. I kept changing the oil at a 3k mile interval after that and the filings eventually went down to a trace amount. I think I'm on about the 5th oil change since then and the engine runs good, no oil pressure issues and I've done about 25k miles since.

This is great info, thanks.

 

[Roadrunner_GTI]

A subtle PSA based on my experience...... Get a magnetic drain plug. I was running one before I did my balance shafts and never really picked up anything significant. When I had the car down for K04 upgrade I ended up having to replace the head at the same time. That's when I decided to proactively replace the balance shafts for piece of mind, and because the car was getting a whole slew of new parts..... (HD valve springs, new clutches, LSD, etc). After I did all of this work I noticed I picked up some very fine filings on the first oil change about 1k later. This could be balance shafts breaking in, could be from the valve springs, I have no idea.... I got about a pea-sized amount of filings at the tip of the magnet. I kept changing the oil at a 3k mile interval after that and the filings eventually went down to a trace amount. I think I'm on about the 5th oil change since then and the engine runs good, no oil pressure issues and I've done about 25k miles since.

A magnetic drain plug is always a good idea, especially during break in periods. The cylinder walls and piston rings inevitably lose material that makes its way to the oil. The bottom of valve springs also lose trace amounts of material as they wear in. It’s one reason to change the oil and filter after roughly 1000 miles.

 

[kosmaras]

A magnetic drain plug is always a good idea, especially during break in periods. The cylinder walls and piston rings inevitably lose material that makes its way to the oil. The bottom of valve springs also lose trace amounts of material as they wear in. It’s one reason to change the oil and filter after roughly 1000 miles.

This is awesome to know. I had some metal on my magnetic drain plug and my oil analysis came back with high levels of iron and aluminum (38k on engine). Supertech valve springs were installed 2,800 miles ago.

 

[Grabbit]

I had some metal on my magnetic drain plug and my oil analysis came back with high levels of iron and aluminum (38k on engine). Supertech valve springs were installed 2,800 miles ago.

I'd be curious to know if the amount tapers off as you put more miles on. Are you planning on doing another oil analysis down the road?

 

[zrickety]

People like to badmouth ECS, but I've already got the balance shaft timing chain.

 

[kosmaras]

I'd be curious to know if the amount tapers off as you put more miles on. Are you planning on doing another oil analysis down the road?

I hope it does and I do plan on doing additional analyses on this engine! Will let you know when I do the next one.

 

[zrickety]

And the Lubeck shafts have arrived from Florida. They look great.