HYDE16 Reviews - HPA 2.0T Performance Intake Manifold

This review is going to serve as a part 2 to my original “HYDE16 Reviews - SoCalPorting K04 Turbo Port, Polish & Exhaust System Coating” thread which discusses the baseline Mainline AWD 1800 chassis dynamometer numbers for a ported and polished APR K04 turbo with APR V2.2 software. This part 2 review will focus on the performance gains solely from bolting on the TSI HPA 2.0T Performance Intake Manifold with no other changes to the car. The software used in this test has remained the same but the ultimate gains should come from the upcoming HPA remapped software file. Lastly, this review will also serve as a DIY install guide for TSI owners. As a supplement, I also referred to the available -HPA 2.0T FSI Performance Intake Manifold Installation Sheet-.

Product Description:
HPA Motorsports is excited to introduce for the first time into the global market, a high performance intake manifold for the Volkswagen 2.0T family of engines. 2.0L owners have been waiting for a product like this since the engine's launch in 2006, and now it's finally here. Featuring better flow, higher boost capacity, and integrated flapper delete; this product will take your 2.0L VW TSI and FSI to the next level. A direct bolt-on replacement for your OEM plastic intake manifold, HPA's performance manifold features a 40% increase in volume over the OEM plenum, and its cast aluminum construction supports larger turbos and higher boost resulting in big potential performance gains. HPA's technical partner, HGP Turbo in Germany, designed and developed this product over 2 years ago for European Golf-R applications to meet the strict TUV and European emissions* regulations. We embraced the system for our Project Gold Rush build in 2012, and have now acquired both the design and the tooling for production in North America, and tweaked it for both street and track use on FSI or TSI engines. By producing and finishing these intake manifolds in Canada, we've been able to drop the price-point significantly over the original European offering, while maintaining the same quality level. HPA's performance intake manifold is cast at our local foundry and machined in house at our development center in British Columbia, then powder coated with a satin-black finish for durability and greater heat dissipation.

Unboxing & Initial Impressions:
-The clean packaging included all necessary bolts, washers, boost taps, plugs and sealant
-The overall weight of the HPA Performance Intake Manifold is extremely light
-The HPA Performance Intake Manifold has an excellent smooth and durable exterior finish
-The inside of the HPA Performance Intake Manifold plenum does not follow the same exterior contour but there are no burs or extremely rough surfaces
-The HPA Performance Intake Manifold plenum runners are ultra smooth
-The optional pre-drilled/tapped water methanol version of the HPA Performance Intake Manifold has one bung post throttle body facing under the plenum
-For ease of servicing water methanol jets, I think HPA should relocate this bung to the front of the manifold if possible
-The manifold was designed with the similar mounting points to re-attach the majority of the OEM lines and brackets

Pre-Production Packaging:



Hardware:



Manifold:



Front:



Side / Boost taps:



Top:



Backside:



Machined Head:



Underside:



Underside Front:



Throttle Body & Meth Bung:



Throttle Body:



Inside Throttle Body:



Inside Runners:





Driver’s Side & Boost Taps:



Passenger Side:



Preparing the HPA Performance Intake Manifold PCV Connection, Boost Tap & Plugs:
Since my 034 Motorsports Catch Can doesn’t use the factory PCV connection on the intake manifold, I contacted John Pelton at 42 Draft Designs for a one-off brushed aluminum plug with rubber o-ring in the same M14x1.5 thread. The original included HPA crush washer was not re-used as the 42 Draft Designs plug has an o-ring. If anyone needs a plug due to their catch can configuration, contact John Pelton at 42DD for these plugs in brushed aluminum or silvers/satin/wrinkle/bronze powder coating. Also installed were the included HPA threaded brass boost tap and plugs.







Preparing the HPA Performance Intake Manifold For Water Methanol:
As shown above, HPA elected to outfit each manifold with a single threaded bung directly below the throttle body base. As per HPA, the TSI and FSI HPA Performance Intake Manifolds have nearly 100% equal flow across all runners (on their test bench) and their experiences have shown sufficient atomization at this point of entry. Since my Aquamist HFS-4 water methanol system installation was not complete, I decided to use the included brass plug to block the one bung post throttle body for now. While the HPA Performance Intake Manifold was awaiting installation, I also decided to drill/tap direct port bungs fitted with Aquamist jet holders and jet holder plugs. This could allow future expansion of my Aquamist HFS-4 system if I wanted to run a direct port water methanol software file. For now, the one bung post throttle body and these direct port bungs are all plugged.

Installation:
Installation is pretty straightforward as long as you take your time removing, disconnecting and re-installing everything. Organization is key so make sure you have clean surface to lay everything out and label what came off the car. The photos below can be used as a reference for disassembly and reassembly but HPA will be releasing their HPA 2.0T TSI Performance Intake Manifold Installation Sheet shortly. For my first attempt at removing the OEM intake manifold, I referred to -Steelcurtain’s TSI Intake Manifold Removal DIY + Valve Cleaning- thread for a list of required or helpful tools, step by step guide to removing the manifold and suggestions for cleaning your valves from carbon build up. As a supplement, I also referred to the available -HPA 2.0T FSI Performance Intake Manifold Installation Sheet-.

Remove Catch Can Hoses or OEM PCV Hose and Boost Tap:



Remove Connectors On Valve Cover:



Remove Throttle Body Coupler:



Remove Throttle Body Connectors:







Remove EVAP Connector:



Remove Vacuum Line Bracket:



Remove Lower Bolt From Manifold Brace & Remove Brace (not to be re-used, silver bolt left of throttle body):



Remove Fuel Hard Line Bracket:



Remove Fuel Hard Line Connection at HPFP (slowly as this is under pressure and some fuel will drip, place absorbent rag underneath to soak up spilled fuel):





Remove Fuel Hard Line Connection Under Manifold at Fuel Rail (place absorbent rag underneath to soak up spilled fuel):



Remove Large Rubber Hose From Straight Bracket:



Unbolt Bracket (two bolts right of throttle body):



Remove Nut Holding Fuel Rail Behind Bracket:



Remove Nut Holding Fuel Rail Under Manifold:



Remove Silver Bolts Holding Manifold to Cylinder Head:



Remove Bracket Bolt Near Oil Filter:



Remove Oil Filter (easier to install):



Carefully Remove Manifold, Disconnect Fuel Injectors, Remove Fuel Rail & Injectors From Cylinder Head:



Manifold & Fueling Fully Removed:



Carbon Buildup (5,000 miles on new engine):





Clean Fuel Injectors with Combustion Cleaner:



Build-up Right / Cleaned Left (dirty fuel injector had 12,000 miles):



Replace Fuel Injector O-Rings with OEM Fuel Injector Service Kit:





Perform Carbon Cleaning With Combustion Clearner & Clean Cylinder Head Surface With Brake Clean:



Clean Air Diverter Plates & File Down Guide Pins Until Flush:



Reinstall Air Diverter Plates & Fuel Injectors:



Apply 2-3MM Bead Of Included Ultra Black RTV Sealant To Throttle Body and Install On Manifold With With Included Bolts & Washers:



Complete Throttle Body Connection, Reassemble Fuel Rail & Vacuum Lines:





Clean Manifold Surface With Brake Clean & Apply 2-3MM Bead Of Included Ultra Black RTV Sealant:



Carefully Slide Assembled Manifold With Fuel Rail Onto Cylinder Head Guide Pins, Reinstall Lower Guide Pin Nuts & Upper Silver Bolts (to hold manifold to cylinder head):



Reconnect Previously Removed Fuel Lines, PCV Lines, Vacuum Lines, Breather Lines & Boost Tap:



Plug Vacuum Line For OEM Intake Manifold Flapper Motor:
On the TSI, the OEM intake manifold flapper motor has an electrical connector in addition to a vacuum connection. For this install I removed the electrical connector and tie wrapped it out of the way. For the vacuum connection, I need to find a point to disconnect it and plug the small hole. As you can see from the first picture below I have the OEM intake manifold flapper motor tie wrapped out of the way for now. In the second picture you can see how this vacuum line runs towards the firewall and into a merged vacuum connection.





Finished Installation Should Look Like This:

Software Calibration:
At the time of my K04 installation, my car was flashed with APR’s V2.2 K04 software file. This part 2 review will focus on the performance gains solely from bolting on the TSI HPA 2.0T Performance Intake Manifold with no other changes to the car and while trying to keep things in somewhat of a controlled environment. The software used in this test has remained the same but the ultimate gains should come from the upcoming HPA remapped software file. Off the shelf K04 software files have certain calibration targets for airflow based on the output of the turbo, so in theory any delta in performance (higher boost curve, HP & TQ figures) should be the result of the flow characteristics of the HPA Performance Intake Manifold. As far as the OEM intake manifold flapper motor, once this was removed I had the two following error codes below (P2014, P2008). For those worried about these codes while running a non-HPA tune, just ask your current software tuner if they can code these errors out.

2 Faults Found:

008212 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2014 - 000 - Electrical Malfunction - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2047.15.31
Time: 31:63:63

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 5.0°C
Temperature: 9.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.065 V

008200 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2008 - 000 - Electrical Malfunction - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 76415 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2039.14.02
Time: 16:37:40

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 787 /min
Load: 40.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 96.0°C
Temperature: 33.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.684 V

Readiness: 0010 0101

Dyno Testing Parameters:
The before and after dyno sessions were performed two weeks apart with Sunoco 93 octane pump gas, ported and polished APR K04 turbo, APR V2.2 K04 93 software and OEM copper NGK plugs gapped to 0.028” with R8 coil packs. In addition, the system was smoke/pressure tested before both dyno sessions. The only differences between the two dyno sessions were the installation of the HPA Performance Intake Manifold and the slight temperature difference between both days. My baseline numbers below will be much lower than what APR typically advertises due to the type of dyno used. APR uses flywheel/crank horsepower, not wheel horsepower and they use a Dynapack hub dyno, which I believe reads higher that rolling road dynos. I have local access to a Mainline AWD 1800 chassis dynamometer at Xenocron Tuning in Hillburn, NY. Again, I am solely focused on the HP and TQ delta after adding only the HPA 2.0T Performance Intake Manifold without changing any other aspect of the car. Once my performance build is complete later this year, I will be shooting for the highest HP & TQ numbers on a DynoJet dyno. For a background on the Mainline AWD 1800 chassis dynamometer used for the dyno charts below, please see my “Proper Dyno Testing” thread.

Dyno Report 1914 – OEM Intake Manifold
IAT: 38.2 degrees F / Air Density: 103.6%
IAT: 44.6 degrees F
Air Density: 103.0%
HP = 280.5 @ 5,373 RPM
TQ = 303.4 ft/lb @ 4,179 RPM


Dyno Report 1945 – HPA Performance Intake Manifold
IAT: 38.2 degrees F
Air Density: 103.6%
HP = 290.6 @ 5,448 RPM
TQ = 310.2 ft/lb @ 4,328 RPM


Dyno Data & Results:
-CLICK HERE- for a direct download of the extracted data Xenocron Tuning Solutions was able to provide for dyno report 1914 and 1945 on their Mainline AWD 1800 chassis dynamometer. Even through the column headers are different than the typical Ross-Tech VagCom output, there is a key on the first tab of the file that may help. Also included are VagCom boost logs from three 2K-6K rpm pulls in 3rd gear and VagCom timing logs from two 2K-6K rpm pulls in 3rd gear after the HPA Performance Intake Manifold was installed. I am by no means schooled in the art of understanding dynos or ODB data so I welcome all open interpretation. For these dyno runs, I was told it is important to compare the results which had the closest intake air temp readings, air density readings and correction factor. The second dyno session had 6 degree F cooler temps but the air density was very close to being exact. Overall, boost held longer due to the higher flow rate, timing advance was higher, thus the HP & TQ delta between the two charts above.

HPA 2.0T Performance Intake Manifold Overall Results and Recommendations:
Was it worth it? Honestly, my answer is yes but it all depends on your specific project build. Do you plan on running the upcoming HPA remapped software file on your OEM turbo or K04? Are you going with a massive turbo? Do you plan on building an engine to take full advantage past the 6,000rpm redline safely? For me, there are several advantages I believe the HPA manifold gives: looks, performance, intake and exhaust sound, stronger material for drilling/tapping direct port water methanol injection and the fact that I never have to replace another broken plastic OEM intake manifold, even with the extended warranty VW provided on this part.

In terms of performance, the above HP & TQ figures are enough for me especially when I’m not running a remapped software file. I provided data above in a somewhat controlled fashion but dyno results are very sensitive so it’s hard to make an exact comparison. The one thing we have to remember is that our current software will not automatically calibrate to take full advantage of this increased air volume and the ultimate gains should come from the upcoming HPA remapped software file. With the OEM intake manifold I was consistently getting throttle closure on the dyno before 6,000rpm but this occurred less on the dyno with the HPA manifold installed. On the street, when running VagCom logs after the HPA Performance Intake Manifold was installed, I haven’t seen any issues such as throttle closing, timing pull or misfires. I for one am not planning on going with a larger turbo so I’m all about increasing efficiency or squeezing every morsel of power out of this amazing K04 turbo without affecting longevity or durability of the components. Because of the porting and ceramic coating, boost comes on a little quicker and stronger (faster spool). I feel the onset of boost and speed of the turbo spool remained the same after adding the HPA Performance Intake Manifold. Overall I am very content with these results and especially the mid-range-to-top-end power band. In the coming weeks, HPA should release their HP & TQ gains on an OEM turbo and K04 turbo with their upcoming HPA remapped software file.

Installation - Installation is pretty straightforward as long as you take your time removing, disconnecting and re-installing everything. The majority of OEM brackets, wires, clips, etc. bolted back up in the provided holes on the manifold.
The Look - For me, the looks speak for themselves. The engine bay looks proper and much more “solid” now. HPA really made a great looking manifold and the engraved letters really stand out. With its smooth black crinkle finish, it will be much easier to keep clean for shows and events.
Performance Feel / Acceleration - Acceleration from mid-range-to-top-end pulls so hard and ultra smooth. This definitely makes difference in the power onset and overall output feeling.
Intake / Exhaust Sound – This was probably my second favorite benefit to the performance. My car was already noisy (in a good way) with the Unitronic intake and ported and polished APR K04. The air induction noise has become much deeper, similar to a V6 engine. The exhaust note at idle has deepened as well which makes it sound much meaner, not necessarily louder. When driving aggressively, well, I’ll let you guess how it sounds… basically, the past few times I stomped on the throttle, I swear I have chuckled out loud to myself. Find someone with this installed and get ready for a symphonic rollercoaster similar to the 2.5L engines with aftermarket intake manifolds.
Cold Start / Idle – There has been some concern over cold starts and smooth idling with the loss of the OEM intake manifold flappers. I can assure you, the first time I started the car after install (cold start), the car fired right up and was surprisingly very smooth. You’d be hard pressed to notice a difference. The car still idles high to warm up then settles in the same amount of time. Over the past few weeks I have paid close attention to my cold starts and even warm starts when running around town. Even with 10-25 degree temps here in the Northeast, my cold starts have been very smooth with the occasional burble or change in idle tone (in a good way; similar to aftermarket cams) but then again the upcoming HPA remapped software file will be recalibrating the idle and cold starts to eliminate any possible roughness if needed.
Keyless Push Start Button – Another thing I noticed is that I no longer have the notorious keyless push-button false starts. Originally, when I press the clutch in and hold down the start button, the car will turn over for half a second then die with my finger still on the button, forcing me to let go and press the button a second time to start the car. The car has not once had a false start since this install.
Aluminum Heat Soak – There has been some concern over heat soak when moving from a plastic intake manifold to an aluminum manifold. Being that the Northeast has single digit temperatures right now, I’m unable to take temperature readings until Spring & Summer to see how they stack up against the plastic OEM intake manifold after a hard run. Luckily, I will be running the Aquamist HFS-4 water methanol system with post intercooler jet to keep my air intake temperatures very low.

BONUS – Part 3:
Can there be a part 3? Yes there can. Next up on the same Mainline AWD 1800 chassis dynamometer will be a baseline dyno session of the APR V3 High Output file with Golf R 3-bar MAP sensor. The second dyno session will be with the Okada / Ignition Projects Plasma Coil Packs and Plasma Lift System. Stay tuned to my build thread in my signature for the final HP & TQ numbers on a different dyno once my remaining performance mods are added later this year.

Great write up. Beautiful hardware.

I just don't know if HP per $ is going to be worth it. Unless you build the bottom end we can already hit the limit of of what these cars can handle with F23T or K04 without the manifold.

Thanks Hyde, results are results. I think a tune that take the intake into account will net bigger gains.

Very nice work as always, drilling those bungs was quiet the idea. If this DIY was around before, I would have done the install myself.


Sent from my iPhone with typos

jerome99 said:

Thanks Hyde, results are results. I think a tune that take the intake into account will net bigger gains.

Click to expand...

Exactly.

It does look real good but before this gets out of hand I need to point out data, yes you see a gain but look at data. I was hoping Hyde would explain what I pointed out when I saw these but I do a give some applause for allowing everyone to see the actual dyno real time logs.

What really accounted for the gains? By looking at this most of you will have that card out typeing in you number to have a manifold shipped out Monday. Pretty yes, gains I am not convinced possible even loss.

Look at the comparison graph between before and after with logs since that is all that really matters. By looking at it boost you can see held longer through the revrange. More boost more power provided all things are constant, which we are assuming right? Which they are not there is actually better than constant look at timing angle, it grows also resulting in more power. I dont see how a intake manifold could ever do this since the tune controls it . Either he had a better run that day with carbon cleaning and fresh everything, or the previous run was poor at best. Dyno does look good on either but thats besides the point, its the side by side comparision.

Bottom line at best about the same power, worst a loss but still inconclusive. With a proper tune maybe it will help but id say minimal. Cost may be worth it for looks for most people.

Still looking forward to seeing it in person becuase it looks bomb for sure. And sorry hyde I have to explain the log since this is a big investment, no hard feelings.

JR your input is always super valuable, like I said above, I welcome open interpretation of the data, logs, charts, etc. I am by no means an expert in the data or dyno charts, that's why I wanted to provide data for the two dyno runs (1 from session 1 and 1 from session 2) for people to explore. Thanks JR!

U-20T said:

It does look real good but before this gets out of hand I need to point out data, yes you see a gain but look at data. I was hoping Hyde would explain what I pointed out when I saw these but I do a give some applause for allowing everyone to see the actual dyno real time logs.

What really accounted for the gains? By looking at this most of you will have that card out typeing in you number to have a manifold shipped out Monday. Pretty yes, gains I am not convinced possible even loss.

Look at the comparison graph between before and after with logs since that is all that really matters. By looking at it boost you can see held longer through the revrange. More boost more power provided all things are constant, which we are assuming right? Which they are not there is actually better than constant look at timing angle, it grows also resulting in more power. I dont see how a intake manifold could ever do this since the tune controls it . Either he had a better run that day with carbon cleaning and fresh everything, or the previous run was poor at best. Dyno does look good on either but thats besides the point, its the side by side comparision.

Bottom line at best about the same power, worst a loss but still inconclusive. With a proper tune maybe it will help but id say minimal. Cost may be worth it for looks for most people.

Still looking forward to seeing it in person becuase it looks bomb for sure. And sorry hyde I have to explain the log since this is a big investment, no hard feelings.

Click to expand...

Like always, great review.

Thank you, appreciated.

Awesome review and write up as always.. :thumbsup: that thing is beautiful :drool: can't wait to see what software changes will do for your numbers

Great review Ryan. Can't wait to see the additional gains with the appropriate software.

Nice review Ryan. .......beautiful piece of hardware.

Nice write up Hyde !

Sure does make the bay look good.