6
Clicking noise during full lock low speed turns
- Thread starter Bender1
- Start date
pjung23551
Ready to race!
i have a crick/tick sound audible when shifting or taking off from a standstill too wthell. I wonder if this is like the mkiv's where the rear heatshield was tapping b/w shifts causing a crick.
chad13761
Ready to race!
I watched the vid - I think all that clatter is the sound of a diesel engine at idle 
Actually, I agree - CV Joints. I don't think a little clicking is the end of the world, as long as you are not forcing the wheel hard or applying much power. They are just seeing the limits of their articulation.
Just curious, are the steering limit stops easily adjustible? Maybe limiting available full-lock just a little would help?
For the lowered guys, this might be a good thing to do, since a CV can only articulate so many degrees total. With a lowered car, you've used some of the available angle in the vertical direction, so now have less available for steering at full lock.
Not to get too off topic, but here's a little something from the aircooled offroad world, which might be interesting for you DIY'ers: CV joint clocking. Essentially, if you orient your inner and outer CV joints so the races are "opposite" from each other, they can work togeather to give you a tiny bit more articulation ( I doubt factory assembled axles do this.) I did this on the rear of my VW Thing and was able to get a little extra suspension droop before CV binding.
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm
Actually, I agree - CV Joints. I don't think a little clicking is the end of the world, as long as you are not forcing the wheel hard or applying much power. They are just seeing the limits of their articulation.
Just curious, are the steering limit stops easily adjustible? Maybe limiting available full-lock just a little would help?
For the lowered guys, this might be a good thing to do, since a CV can only articulate so many degrees total. With a lowered car, you've used some of the available angle in the vertical direction, so now have less available for steering at full lock.
Not to get too off topic, but here's a little something from the aircooled offroad world, which might be interesting for you DIY'ers: CV joint clocking. Essentially, if you orient your inner and outer CV joints so the races are "opposite" from each other, they can work togeather to give you a tiny bit more articulation ( I doubt factory assembled axles do this.) I did this on the rear of my VW Thing and was able to get a little extra suspension droop before CV binding.
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm
Last edited:
Niebeendend
Ready to race!
My car has started doing this as well. I noticed it after my 10K service and tire rotation. Not sure if that was a coincident or not. I have been meaning to take it by the dealer to see if there's anything to worry about.
GTI Cadence
Ready to race!
Any updates? I haven't heard the noise all week.
SunnyHirani
New member
My GTI does the same thing, the dealer changed the struts bearings/mounts for both sides but the noise still persisted. It starts after the car has warmed up a little. The dealer reproduced the noise in a brand new GTI too. My car has done only 7000 miles. They say its a characteristic of the car.
johnnyveelish
Go Kart Champion
mine is nowhere near as bad as the video and only happens at full lock. noticeable in cold weather. i don't remember it happening in the summer. will have it check on next service to see what's up.
Just took my car into the dealer to get this issue addressed. The dealer tech had me drive through the parking lot with the wheel at full lock. He verified the noise and said he had no idea what was causing it. They ended up saying the noise was caused by a dry/dirty CV joint. They cleaned/lubed the CV joint and the noise is gone.
UNFOGIVABLE
Go Kart Champion
It's not wise to turn your car at full lock. I forgot the reason but it adds extra stress on the car which is probably what were all hearing.