Rear Main Seal leak, other items to do while trans is separated from engine?

[thatspsychotic]

Finally reached under the car with my phone, looks like rear main seal leak is confirmed. I assume the actual interface between the engine and trans is further up and still hidden in this photo, but there is a fairly significant amount of oil in that area and it's to the point that I'm seeing oil spots under my car wherever I park now. Also even though there's a bunch of oil on the transmission case itself, I've smelled it and it's definitely engine oil.

To do this job, I assume the following have to be removed:

• Pendulum mount
• Transmission mount (?)
• Axles (?)
• A bunch of other stuff on top of the gearbox to provide clearance and get at the bolts

To save on common labor I'm planning to add in the APR pendulum mount and either Torque Solutions or BFI engine/trans mounts, and if there is common labor, potentially the Tyrolsport deadset and SuperPro LCA bushings. Anything else obvious to include?

 

[Carlosfandang0]

Finally reached under the car with my phone, looks like rear main seal leak is confirmed. I assume the actual interface between the engine and trans is further up and still hidden in this photo, but there is a fairly significant amount of oil in that area and it's to the point that I'm seeing oil spots under my car wherever I park now. Also even though there's a bunch of oil on the transmission case itself, I've smelled it and it's definitely engine oil.

To do this job, I assume the following have to be removed:

• Pendulum mount
• Transmission mount (?)
• Axles (?)
• A bunch of other stuff on top of the gearbox to provide clearance and get at the bolts

To save on common labor I'm planning to add in the APR pendulum mount and either Torque Solutions or BFI engine/trans mounts, and if there is common labor, potentially the Tyrolsport deadset and SuperPro LCA bushings. Anything else obvious to include?

Picture doesn’t show!


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[Carlosfandang0]

This is where you will see oil if the seal is shot! It also gets onto the pendulum mount from air pushing the oil when driven.

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[Carlosfandang0]

If the rear main is leaking it will be excessive crank case pressure that caused it, this is nearly always down to a failed PCV! I had a new revision genuine PCV fitted to try and address an oil burning issue (it was actually burning oil for a different reason in the end) the PCV failed very soon after (around 6000miles) and took the rear main with it! VW replaced the PCV for free but of course didn’t pay for the rear main, if it’s the rear main leaking you should always change the PCV too.


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[thatspsychotic]

If the rear main is leaking it will be excessive crank case pressure that caused it, this is nearly always down to a failed PCV! I had a new revision genuine PCV fitted to try and address an oil burning issue (it was actually burning oil for a different reason in the end) the PCV failed very soon after (around 6000miles) and took the rear main with it! VW replaced the PCV for free but of course didn’t pay for the rear main, if it’s the rear main leaking you should always change the PCV too.


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edit: fixed image

I actually changed the PCV probably 2 years ago, but yes I'm actually considering a catch can for the specific purpose of preventing the PCV plate from seeing boost and having this issue again.

 

[Carlosfandang0]

Did you mean that you can't see the photo I took? It loads fine for me but it might be something with Google Photos.

I actually changed the PCV probably 2 years ago, but yes I'm actually considering a catch can for the specific purpose of preventing the PCV plate from seeing boost and having this issue again.

Which ever route you choose, PCV or CC, make sure it’s done at the same time as the seal.


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[Carlosfandang0]

Yeah, can’t see the photo, the screen looks like this,

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[thatspsychotic]

Yeah, can’t see the photo

Should be fixed in previous post, and here it is again, as close as I could get without jacking up the car:

So yeah there's pretty much a bunch of oil everywhere.

 

[Carlosfandang0]

Obviously it looks a little different than my picture due to it being a DSG but I’d be confident that’s a failed rear main as long as there is no oil higher up.


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[thatspsychotic]

Another update, just this morning the car threw a P2187 System Too Lean at Idle code, probably confirming that the PCV is kaput. Another symptom is intermettent higher idle speed to about 1000 RPM then dropping to 850 RPM.

Agree/disagree with the PCV as likely culprit? With the rear main seal failure as the corroborating symptom it seems quite likely.

 

[zef]

iabed industries has a bulletproof solution for a leaking RMS. I had mine done when my clutch packs and LSD were installed. It's only about ~$100 but you'll never have to worry about it again

https://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution

 

[Tony48]

iabed industries has a bulletproof solution for a leaking RMS. I had mine done when my clutch packs and LSD were installed. It's only about ~$100 but you'll never have to worry about it again

https://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution

I installed an iAbed RMS a few thousand miles ago and am glad I shouldn't have to ever worry about it again. Check out the "Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips" link in my signature for pics of the part and process in my build thread.

 

[thatspsychotic]

I installed an iAbed RMS a few thousand miles ago and am glad I shouldn't have to ever worry about it again. Check out the "Clutch & RMS Replacement Tips" link in my signature for pics of the part and process in my build thread.

Thanks, good info. I'll see what my shop recommends. I'm planning to have them do TyrolSport deadset subframe collars, SuperPro offset LCA bushings, APR pendulum mount, and either Torque Solutions or BFI engine/trans mounts at the same time, plus an alignment of course, so dropping the subframe may actually save overall labor due to overlap for the other work. I'm also considering a catch can for the specific purpose of protecting the replacement OEM PCV system from ever seeing boost pressure again.

Will probably end up being over $2k in parts and labor but I plan to keep this car for a long time, and those upgrades should make a noticeable improvement in handling, so it'll be worth the investment.

 

[thatspsychotic]

iabed industries has a bulletproof solution for a leaking RMS. I had mine done when my clutch packs and LSD were installed. It's only about ~$100 but you'll never have to worry about it again

https://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution

Did you have a specific need to change out the clutch packs? Should I consider having an LSD done at the same time as RMS since some of the labor is shared? Trying to keep this from being a $4k scope of work, but it might be worth it...

 

[joebrowntech]

RMS leaks in vehicles could hurt its fuel efficiency a great deal. However, you could work on this by following the procedures mentioned in your user manual. But if you somehow misplaced or lost your user manual, there’s nothing to worry.You could get it easily on manuals.co