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What did you do to your MK6 today?

CowTownRacer

Drag Racing Champion
that would be a solid plan if this was something i could access from the backside. the location makes this not a viable option.
Why can't you access the backside? Which rivnut is it (top or bottom of the XB)?
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion

uglybastard

Autocross Champion

CowTownRacer

Drag Racing Champion
I had to hammer one of the bottom ones out. The backside of it is open into the trunk. If you take off the trunk mat and the spare tire foam you can see where it opens up. Just hammer it through and it should fall into there.
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
I had to hammer one of the bottom ones out. The backside of it is open into the trunk. If you take off the trunk mat and the spare tire foam you can see where it opens up. Just hammer it through and it should fall into there.
no shit 👏👏👏

good looks, my man. idk why i assumed it was enclosed there. would hammerring damage the size of the hole? (thats whats she said)
 

CowTownRacer

Drag Racing Champion
no shit 👏👏👏

good looks, my man. idk why i assumed it was enclosed there. would hammerring damage the size of the hole? (thats whats she said)
I thought it was closed too. I actually thought it fell into the frame and bought new tty bolts to pull off the control arm and everything to go digging in the frame for it, but then I found the little bitch hanging out in my trunk and realized it opens up at the very bottom of that pillar.

The frame is thick, you're unlikely to widen the hole by hammer it. But what I did is use a hammer and punch to push the corners of the rivnut inward and then just hammered it through.
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
I thought it was closed too. I actually thought it fell into the frame and bought new tty bolts to pull off the control arm and everything to go digging in the frame for it, but then I found the little bitch hanging out in my trunk and realized it opens up at the very bottom of that pillar.

The frame is thick, you're unlikely to widen the hole by hammer it. But what I did is use a hammer and punch to push the corners of the rivnut inward and then just hammered it through.
im expecting to need JB weld for this one anyways so that's not a big deal i guess. i have knocked the half top of the bolt off. i want to try and dremel the flange off still so i can minimize the damage is possible. waiting for neighbors to stop walking by. wishing i had bought a cordless dremel instead right now so i can not get ratted on to the association. if anyone says theyre goign to do it, ill assume it will happen and will send it and just do as much car work as i can during daylight hours, then defend myself after the fact.
 

brat_burner

Autocross Champion
Fresh wash since it's supposed to be nice for a few days.

Had some annoying water spots on my "new" windshield. Grabbed a bottle of spot remover that came with my coating. It says Not for Window Glass right on the front. Damn.... Googled it and had a couple lemons in stock. Sure enough, rubbed them all over the glass and followed it with glass cleaner. Now it looks 👌
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion

CowTownRacer

Drag Racing Champion
im expecting to need JB weld for this one anyways so that's not a big deal i guess. i have knocked the half top of the bolt off. i want to try and dremel the flange off still so i can minimize the damage is possible. waiting for neighbors to stop walking by. wishing i had bought a cordless dremel instead right now so i can not get ratted on to the association. if anyone says theyre goign to do it, ill assume it will happen and will send it and just do as much car work as i can during daylight hours, then defend myself after the fact.
JB Weld it anyways. If you aren't, you're doing yourself a disservice. I also found installing the last rivnut through the brace made it line up perfectly.
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
JB Weld it anyways. If you aren't, you're doing yourself a disservice. I also found installing the last rivnut through the brace made it line up perfectly.
yeah i used a punch on the spot where the last hole needs to go but i plan to drill with it on once i get this 3rd one sorted out.
 

Saabingti

Autocross Champion
Threw in the towel after about 4 hrs of attempting a DP install. Lots of videos out there on how to do it but there's so much editing to condense things. "so here's the tricky connector, you just unconnect it but be careful, and here it is unconnected." Now I've got to spend time figuring out how to disconnect the tricky thing I have to be careful with. :unsure:

A poor night's sleep, bad prior day's nutrition, and plenty of water/snack breaks doesn't help the time. I feel really stupid because of a lot of it but I feel like I've learned a good amount about an unfamiliar platform in the time I spent. It reminds me of school... spend plenty of time doing homework and then get out in the real world and learn that homework isn't everything.

How much force does the upper inside flange nut take to make it move? I got started and felt like I was going to have to really pull on it, so I stopped and applied penetrant instead.

Some lowlights for laughs, cue the Benny Hill theme:

- Couldn't figure out the rubber airbox pull-up grommets; thought they were some sort of pop up screw or similar based on prior non-VW experience. Wasted time trying to google things like "vw pull up bolts" and similar
- Couldn't figure out the secondary hose with tricky connector at the bend of the intake back pipe (also doing stg 2 intake install, so had to disconnect it)
- Rusted AF downpipe collar clamps at the DP-CatBack junction, which required lots of scrubbing with a *grill brush* because I don't own more appropriate metal brushes
- "okay so look for the CV shield and undo those bolts" ... but you didn't tell me to take off the under-engine plastic aero thing first, so am I doing this wrong or do I need to take that off?

Car is still up on the stands so plan of attack for now is:

- Check price of DP install at local mechanics first. If stupid expensive:
- Head to Lowe's and pick up:​
- 12 mm deep socket, 6-sided​
- 13 mm deep socket, 6-sided​
- 16 mm deep socket, 6-sided​
- Breaker bar​
- better wire brushes​
- Brush and break rusty clamps​
- Do the installs​
- If not stupid expensive:
- Install stg2 intake​
- Take to mechanic for install​
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
Threw in the towel after about 4 hrs of attempting a DP install. Lots of videos out there on how to do it but there's so much editing to condense things. "so here's the tricky connector, you just unconnect it but be careful, and here it is unconnected." Now I've got to spend time figuring out how to disconnect the tricky thing I have to be careful with. :unsure:

A poor night's sleep, bad prior day's nutrition, and plenty of water/snack breaks doesn't help the time. I feel really stupid because of a lot of it but I feel like I've learned a good amount about an unfamiliar platform in the time I spent. It reminds me of school... spend plenty of time doing homework and then get out in the real world and learn that homework isn't everything.

How much force does the upper inside flange nut take to make it move? I got started and felt like I was going to have to really pull on it, so I stopped and applied penetrant instead.

Some lowlights for laughs, cue the Benny Hill theme:

- Couldn't figure out the rubber airbox pull-up grommets; thought they were some sort of pop up screw or similar based on prior non-VW experience. Wasted time trying to google things like "vw pull up bolts" and similar
- Couldn't figure out the secondary hose with tricky connector at the bend of the intake back pipe (also doing stg 2 intake install, so had to disconnect it)
- Rusted AF downpipe collar clamps at the DP-CatBack junction, which required lots of scrubbing with a *grill brush* because I don't own more appropriate metal brushes
- "okay so look for the CV shield and undo those bolts" ... but you didn't tell me to take off the under-engine plastic aero thing first, so am I doing this wrong or do I need to take that off?

Car is still up on the stands so plan of attack for now is:

- Check price of DP install at local mechanics first. If stupid expensive:
- Head to Lowe's and pick up:​
- 12 mm deep socket, 6-sided​
- 13 mm deep socket, 6-sided​
- 16 mm deep socket, 6-sided​
- Breaker bar​
- better wire brushes​
- Brush and break rusty clamps​
- Do the installs​
- If not stupid expensive:
- Install stg2 intake​
- Take to mechanic for install​

Yes the plastic under auro piece needs to come off to get to the O2 sensor wires. I was afraid of breaking a stud but it seems that is very rare. The stud and bolt should come out if the nut is seized to the stud. I don’t remember how the OE airbox comes apart. I did have to Sawzall off the rear exhaust clamp at the end of the stock dp due to rust.

I used a combination of the CTS and IE instal instructions. IE says to remove the heat shied above the turbo but that is not needed.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
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