6
What did you do to your MK6 today?
- Thread starter LightningRhod
- Start date
OE Airbox wasn't too bad but I wish I had done it on the ground instead of up on jacks. The back tube was the hardest part. My clamp wrench slipped off so had to do that over, and then I had to do a lot of huffing and puffing to get the tube out of the silicone adapter. Definitely not looking forward to swapping that adapter out when I do the Stg2 intake.
I think it's Phul's thread that mentions the passenger side aero plastic in order to do the O2 wires but it made no mention of the front aero. Neither did any of the videos. Maybe it's so obvious that anyone would figure it out, and I did eventually, but my frustration was more overall. IMO if you want to make a how to, don't skip steps for the sake of editing... not everyone knows exactly what to do on every bit of hardware.
Will have to check those out.
Anyway, looks like the shopping cart at HD is going to be a tough pricepoint for a mechanic to beat, so I'm going to try some of this again tomorrow. Maybe I can borrow a Sawzall from work.
torga
Autocross Champion
Yep, Mercury near my shoulder and it snakes down to a "joke" Pluto on my inner wrist - it's a black circle from a previous tattoo idea that went nowhere. The rest of the planets are good quality blackwork. I've got Orion on the outer part of my forearm, but just the stars - I didn't want to connect the constellation. I had the tattoo artist do Betelgeuse and Rigel a little differently since they're the biggest stars in the constellation.
uglybastard
Autocross Champion
does anyone make wise cracks about Uranus
torga
Autocross Champion
You're the first one. No one I've met has your comedic genius, apparently.
uglybastard
Autocross Champion
brat_burner
Autocross Champion
Thinking about these braces reminded me of this. Had a select few stingrays get a modification to the trans tunnel brace. There was an area where the cats would hit and cause a bad rattle. Some did it, some did not... Well we found the solution, as all car tuners do.
PS: That's not the brand of header used.
PS: That's not the brand of header used.
jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
Aw man sorry to hear. Wish you were closer I'd give you a hand...I installed one for someone last week in just over an hourThrew in the towel after about 4 hrs of attempting a DP install. Lots of videos out there on how to do it but there's so much editing to condense things. "so here's the tricky connector, you just unconnect it but be careful, and here it is unconnected." Now I've got to spend time figuring out how to disconnect the tricky thing I have to be careful with.
A poor night's sleep, bad prior day's nutrition, and plenty of water/snack breaks doesn't help the time. I feel really stupid because of a lot of it but I feel like I've learned a good amount about an unfamiliar platform in the time I spent. It reminds me of school... spend plenty of time doing homework and then get out in the real world and learn that homework isn't everything.
How much force does the upper inside flange nut take to make it move? I got started and felt like I was going to have to really pull on it, so I stopped and applied penetrant instead.
Some lowlights for laughs, cue the Benny Hill theme:
- Couldn't figure out the rubber airbox pull-up grommets; thought they were some sort of pop up screw or similar based on prior non-VW experience. Wasted time trying to google things like "vw pull up bolts" and similar
- Couldn't figure out the secondary hose with tricky connector at the bend of the intake back pipe (also doing stg 2 intake install, so had to disconnect it)
- Rusted AF downpipe collar clamps at the DP-CatBack junction, which required lots of scrubbing with a *grill brush* because I don't own more appropriate metal brushes
- "okay so look for the CV shield and undo those bolts" ... but you didn't tell me to take off the under-engine plastic aero thing first, so am I doing this wrong or do I need to take that off?
Car is still up on the stands so plan of attack for now is:
- Check price of DP install at local mechanics first. If stupid expensive:
- Head to Lowe's and pick up:- 12 mm deep socket, 6-sided- 13 mm deep socket, 6-sided- 16 mm deep socket, 6-sided- Breaker bar- better wire brushes- Brush and break rusty clamps- Do the installs- If not stupid expensive:
- Install stg2 intake- Take to mechanic for install
All good, I appreciate it. I don't think it's beyond me, just a new car to me and so I don't know exactly how the pieces fit together.
With the weather here today figured it was probably best not to work on a car in a garage with a massive tree right over it, so I'll be trying tomorrow night. May hit those bolts with some penetrant before I head to work in the AM.
Didn't get it tonight either, but did put some work in:
==
Tried to break the nuts on the band clamps underneath to no avail so I ended up Dremeling them.
Wasted time trying to undo the top O2 sensor per CTS install instructions, only to realize that there's no reason to remove the O2 sensor from the turbo side ... why on earth do people not specify CCTA or CBFA given that difference? Now I'm worried I've borked the O2 sensor due to having to bend the wires to get it around the firewall while I was trying to remove it.
Spent a good amount of time trying to get to that infamous top inside nut. Finally got to it, couldn't get it to budge. Two day's worth of penetrant soak. Went to remove the socket, can't get the socket off the nut. Think it was a 12 pointer and probably made of Chinesium. It's still on there...
Okay fine, let's go under the car and hit the nuts that have been penetrated like 5 times. Won't budge. Call it a night as it's getting dark and the GF is hungry. Hit the nuts with another round of Knock'er Loose before wrapping up.
==
I'm using a "long handle" socket wrench, one of those 8" ones you can get at HD/Lowes. I tried a 10" breaker on the top inside and it still didn't work. Do I need to look at finding something longer? Because the socket is stuck on I feel like I need to follow the IE install instructions and pull the turbo heat shield off at this point; I doubt it's safe to put an intake on and try to drive with 1) a socket that could fall off the nut and 2) cut clamp bands. That involves disconnecting the evap line, coolant overflow line, and rear vacuum line from the crossover line. Anything I need to worry about there?
Thanks for all the help, guys. Really appreciate it. Has anyone else tried to do a DP install on a car that's been soaking in the Northeast's salt bath for 7 years and hasn't been wrenched on?
Joe_Mama
Autocross Champion
Yes. Lots of people manage to do it. It isnt fun but its doable.Has anyone else tried to do a DP install on a car that's been soaking in the Northeast's salt bath for 7 years and hasn't been wrenched on?
Hence the emojis. Mix of sarcasm and genuine curiosity. Everything that I've read and watched has been "just pop this off here and do that, done in 2 hrs max" here I am unable to move the flange nuts after multiple days of knocker plus having to dremel the exhaust clamps.
No input on the heat shield removal?
GolNat
Autocross Champion
What heat shield removal?
Edit: Oh that one. I didn't remove it. Looked like a pain in the ass and I could get to everything just fine.
6 point socket is really best. Are you using 1/2" drive? If it won't budge then more torque.
I used Liquid Wrench in a dropper bottle over PB Blaster. I had less then 50k on the car tho.
Last edited:
torga
Autocross Champion
+1 I didn't remove it either and had no need. Just used a ~12" long extension to get the inner-top bolt - this way it sticks all the way out past the block, so you can put a cheater bar on that sucker.