GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

aerodynamics?

dustinouch

Go Kart Champion
Awesome information in this thread, was able to pick up almost all the parts and fasteners for around $370.
-R32 belly pan
-rear axle trim
-rear suspension arm covers
-rear lining
-RS3 brake ducts
 

dustinouch

Go Kart Champion
Actually I just got a call from 1stVW, VW/Audi had a price increase that went into affect on the 01/01. This didn't affect my VW parts but the Audi parts went up (RS3 ducts, stoneguard, rear axle cover) it puts the order just over $420 plus shipping. Those RS3 ducts are pricey but not bad if you consider that there's a full-size engine tray cover in there. If anyone was on the fence about ordering these, I would jump on it before the 2014 pricing is enforced across the board

Rotaryknight said:
Wth. Txt me later. Where you got them all!!!
Should be in mid-month, install day? :D
 

dustinouch

Go Kart Champion
To anyone thinking about buying these parts the only part that fits easily is the R32 belly pan. I tried installing these parts this weekend here is what I found out.

1. R32 belly pan = perfect fit. The parts numbers used for the screws in this thread are a different style than the stock GTI, but will work just fine. Save your money don't order the speednuts.

2. rear axle trim = bracket doesn't fit, if you have a Unibrace RB. The metal bracket needs to be cut down to clear the RB mounting point and a larger hole to take the 7mm nut that Unibrace includes with their kit. If you don't have a rear brace there should be no issues.

3. rear suspension arm covers = emergency brake rivets needs to be drilled out on both sides. Probably need a screw that is not included in the part number list to attach the new bracket.

4. rear lining = needs to be trimmed to clear exhaust.

5. RS3 brake ducts = won't fit if you have Superpro LCA + aftermarket sway bar. Clearances between bottom of sway and top of LCA are too close, needs material removed.

Nevermind, I see what I missed earlier in the thread. Underneath the emergency cable bracket is a bolt hole that is used with this:

Clip: 1K0 609 734 x 2
Bolt: N 102 854 02 x 2

Thanks,

Mike

Do you have any pictures of how you installed the rear trailing arm cover? I tried installing these this weekend but wasn't ready to drill out that rivet.
 

BoostedVW11

Drag Racing Champion
I found the GTI's aerodynamics to be quite interesting..guess this explains why the back hatch gets dirty so fast..
 

AUDI JUICE

Ready to race!
I found the GTI's aerodynamics to be quite interesting..guess this explains why the back hatch gets dirty so fast..

^^^^ Exactly!


My TDI pan certainly doesnt look as cool as the R32 pan, but seems like VW great lengths to deaden the diesel noise. I wonder how aerodynamics compares, being that it has no air ducts like the r32 pan has. Better or worse?
 
Last edited:

the bruce

Go Kart Champion
Marginally better without the ducts. You won't notice the difference though.
If at all, oil temp will slightly increase.
Doesn't it even have the (driver side) gearbox vents?

BTW, does the deadening material touch the engine oil pan?
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
To anyone thinking about buying these parts the only part that fits easily is the R32 belly pan. I tried installing these parts this weekend here is what I found out.

1. R32 belly pan = perfect fit. The parts numbers used for the screws in this thread are a different style than the stock GTI, but will work just fine. Save your money don't order the speednuts.

2. rear axle trim = bracket doesn't fit, if you have a Unibrace RB. The metal bracket needs to be cut down to clear the RB mounting point and a larger hole to take the 7mm nut that Unibrace includes with their kit. If you don't have a rear brace there should be no issues.

3. rear suspension arm covers = emergency brake rivets needs to be drilled out on both sides. Probably need a screw that is not included in the part number list to attach the new bracket.

4. rear lining = needs to be trimmed to clear exhaust.

5. RS3 brake ducts = won't fit if you have Superpro LCA + aftermarket sway bar. Clearances between bottom of sway and top of LCA are too close, needs material removed.



Do you have any pictures of how you installed the rear trailing arm cover? I tried installing these this weekend but wasn't ready to drill out that rivet.

Where are the pics?!?

butchered by autocorrecr
 

Mckidd

Passed Driver's Ed
To anyone thinking about buying these parts the only part that fits easily is the R32 belly pan. I tried installing these parts this weekend here is what I found out.

1. R32 belly pan = perfect fit. The parts numbers used for the screws in this thread are a different style than the stock GTI, but will work just fine. Save your money don't order the speednuts.

2. rear axle trim = bracket doesn't fit, if you have a Unibrace RB. The metal bracket needs to be cut down to clear the RB mounting point and a larger hole to take the 7mm nut that Unibrace includes with their kit. If you don't have a rear brace there should be no issues.

3. rear suspension arm covers = emergency brake rivets needs to be drilled out on both sides. Probably need a screw that is not included in the part number list to attach the new bracket.

4. rear lining = needs to be trimmed to clear exhaust.

5. RS3 brake ducts = won't fit if you have Superpro LCA + aftermarket sway bar. Clearances between bottom of sway and top of LCA are too close, needs material removed.



Do you have any pictures of how you installed the rear trailing arm cover? I tried installing these this weekend but wasn't ready to drill out that rivet.

Sorry for the delayed response, I just noticed that there was activity in this thread. Some have suggested that you are able to hammer out the center pin on the rivet with a small punch. I tried this but was unable to get the pin to move anywhere. I ended up breaking off the four clover leaves from the back with some vice grips.

Unfortunately the mk6 e-brake lines are too thick to be used with those clips. I haven't gone back to try and determine a better way to affix the cable, so I'm not running the covers.

Mike
 

dustinouch

Go Kart Champion
Where are the pics?!?

butchered by autocorrecr

Check my build thread, I didn't take pictures of everything but it'll give you an idea of the issues.
http://golfmk6.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1583442&postcount=144

Mckidd
Ah that's disappointing, but at least you saved me some time. I'll have to measure the E-Brake cable vs the clip that came with my parts. There has to be another part in the VW/Audi bin that will work...
 

graveshb

Go Kart Champion
On both sides of the rear window they fitted some 'spoilers' similar all Sciroccos come with from factory:

Hey, any more info on these, would love to learn more. Also I'm going to look into making a custom rear diffuser this summer, though it will probably never come to be, I'll definitely post pics if I actually make it. Probably out of sheet aluminum or plastic, but maybe fiberglass if I go insane.
 

nafljhy

Go Kart Champion
Sorry for the delayed response, I just noticed that there was activity in this thread. Some have suggested that you are able to hammer out the center pin on the rivet with a small punch. I tried this but was unable to get the pin to move anywhere. I ended up breaking off the four clover leaves from the back with some vice grips.

Unfortunately the mk6 e-brake lines are too thick to be used with those clips. I haven't gone back to try and determine a better way to affix the cable, so I'm not running the covers.

Mike
I actually got those clips to work. It was a tight fit but they do work with mk6 lines
 

Talguy

Go Kart Champion
how did you get the rivet out. Did you drill it out or press it out. Also the practice brake that holds the E-brake line, how did you remove it since its wrapped around the cable in one piece? Do you cut the brake in half or did you disconnect the e-brake line from the brake caliper?
 

nafljhy

Go Kart Champion
how did you get the rivet out. Did you drill it out or press it out. Also the practice brake that holds the E-brake line, how did you remove it since its wrapped around the cable in one piece? Do you cut the brake in half or did you disconnect the e-brake line from the brake caliper?

I had a spring loaded center punch and I slowly pushed it out. One came out just fine. The other I had to break the leaves. You're supposed to use the new plastic rivets so I didn't really care to keep the old ones.

As for e-brake, I just disconnected it from the caliper. You're not messing with the distance or anything so that's what I did. Everything has been working fine for the past 20k miles.

Umm, as for the part that is wrapped around the e-brake line.. I don't remember how I got it off. Its been awhile since I did it. I would need to see a picture.
 
Last edited:
Top