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APR, GIAC, help! P0033: The code that removes all boost

excelevant

Go Kart Champion
After problem after problem, I fear my Volkswagen experience is coming to an expensive end.

Last week, on the way home from having the ECU replaced by my tuner the car lost all boost and began sounding like an intercooler hose popped off, with a loud owl noise coming from the engine bay. It was the second time the key was turned by me since the ECU replacement. I stopped at the park for my nephews ball game then half a mile down the road on the way home I went to hit the gas and had 1% power. No codes, I threw the car up on some ramps and checked for a boost leak, no luck. My tuner has now spent a week inspecting everything, all piping, k04 & wg, doing multiple pressure tests, there is no sign of leaks anywhere in the system... wg functions fine, replaced the DV, replaced the N75 and still nothing.

The car makes 0 boost. It's like driving a 40hp GTI. While my tuner was driving the car around P0033 finally popped up which is what led to the replacement of the N75. I suggested a failed/clogged cat, as this is known to cause low/no boost issues in all cars. He pressure tested the exhaust and said he measured only 1psi of back pressure? I'm still a little fuzzy on this but according to him that means the exhaust should be fine.

We're both at the end of our rope, I've searched extensively on the topic and found nothing.

I'm done with VW, but don't know how I can even get rid of the car in this state. I think the only option left is to source another ECU, as the problem only surfaced once the ECU was replaced... which to me is a huge red flag that something went wrong somewhere, that maybe in some way the car doesn't accept the new ECU, blah blah. I'm not going to shell out the money to "try" a new ECU, and am thus forced to continue to attempt to sort this out at my tuners pace... which has been excellent by the way I just wish there was more I could do

The car has a CTS K04 on GIAC Extreme, and was previously on APR software.

Calling all tuners and forum wizards... I could use a solution :confused:
 
Last edited:

Jerseynoob

Ready to race!
Do you mran you were just driving down the road and went into limp mode?

I currently have a funky situtation myself with limp mode, and hopefully it will get fixed.

Like you, I'll be forced to make hard choices if it appears that a game of ghost chasing is gonna start.....
 

JhnR

Banned
mysterious
 

Rotaryknight

Go Kart Champion
Check the lines to your N75. Not just the N75 itself. Check to make sure there is no blockage going to the N75 and going back in to the turbo itself.

I actually had a boost control issue that was the N75 vent line that really doesn't do much but the fitting going in to the turbo was blocked off....stopping the N75 from functioning correctly.
 

Stadpad

Go Kart Champion
my car used to do that almost everyday when i lived in germany. now it doesnt anymore. weird.
 

excelevant

Go Kart Champion
Do you mran you were just driving down the road and went into limp mode?

I currently have a funky situtation myself with limp mode, and hopefully it will get fixed.

Like you, I'll be forced to make hard choices if it appears that a game of ghost chasing is gonna start.....

Good question. I went over the same two speed bumps twice entering and exiting the park, made a left for about a half mile, made a right and that's when the turbo disappeared. Can limp mode cause the N75 to dump all pressure, and make a loud noise bird/air escaping noise above 1500 rpm?

Man, these cars :iono: I was planning to keep mine till it breaks down again... now I'm not sure
 

excelevant

Go Kart Champion
Check the lines to your N75. Not just the N75 itself. Check to make sure there is no blockage going to the N75 and going back in to the turbo itself.

I actually had a boost control issue that was the N75 vent line that really doesn't do much but the fitting going in to the turbo was blocked off....stopping the N75 from functioning correctly.


any new ideas at this point and I am extremely grateful.. I'll fwd this on, thank you :happyanim:
 

ncampos976

Ready to race!
you sure the n75 didnt get broken during the install? they are very easy to break. sounds like your getting 0 boost. you could run a vacuum line from the wastegate to the compressor housing, that will run spring pressure of the wastegate, i wouldnt go WOT just enough to see if that cures your power loss.
 

excelevant

Go Kart Champion
you sure the n75 didnt get broken during the install? they are very easy to break. sounds like your getting 0 boost. you could run a vacuum line from the wastegate to the compressor housing, that will run spring pressure of the wastegate, i wouldnt go WOT just enough to see if that cures your power loss.

I'm almost 100 that my tuner has tried this, I'll confirm. We tried a new N75.. so if it was broken the new one would have to be too
 

Jerseynoob

Ready to race!
Good question. I went over the same two speed bumps twice entering and exiting the park, made a left for about a half mile, made a right and that's when the turbo disappeared. Can limp mode cause the N75 to dump all pressure, and make a loud noise bird/air escaping noise above 1500 rpm?

Man, these cars :iono: I was planning to keep mine till it breaks down again... now I'm not sure

I had a recent hardware upgrade, which was supposed to be drop in, yet about a mile from the shop it went into limp mode, restarted the car, and on the way back, limp moded again. Got the tech and went for a drive and logs, then boom, went into limp mode without going into boost, twice. :iono:

Sux.

I just wish i got the code from the tech.......

Now im just trying to chill while it gets sorted out.
 

excelevant

Go Kart Champion
I had a recent hardware upgrade, which was supposed to be drop in, yet about a mile from the shop it went into limp mode, restarted the car, and on the way back, limp moded again. Got the tech and went for a drive and logs, then boom, went into limp mode without going into boost, twice. :iono:

Sux.

I just wish i got the code from the tech.......

Now im just trying to chill while it gets sorted out.

How long has it been? Have you heard anything? I'd call for that code
 

excelevant

Go Kart Champion
Check the lines to your N75. Not just the N75 itself. Check to make sure there is no blockage going to the N75 and going back in to the turbo itself.

I actually had a boost control issue that was the N75 vent line that really doesn't do much but the fitting going in to the turbo was blocked off....stopping the N75 from functioning correctly.

You might be on to something

N75_Pierburg_valve_repair.pdf
 

Jerseynoob

Ready to race!
How long has it been? Have you heard anything? I'd call for that code

It happened just his past weekend. They've been doing logs, and going back and forth with the software company. I hope to hear something by tomorrow. I don't have a vagcom, I'm not a DIY'er (don't have tools or space), plus my car is still under warranty if it turns out it's a hardware issue.

I was just wondering if we had the same issue going on.

I'm thinking something else decide to shit the bed, independently of what happened.
 

Gene@PrecisionMotorworks

Passed Driver's Ed
OP,

Our shop has had a fair share of "weird issues" so we'd like to share some thoughts that perhaps could help you out... Some of these May have already been tried by your shop but some may be worth checking out.

Two distinct things come to mind reading this. You are hearing what you calls a owl sound or rush of air that sounds like a boost leak. "If it sounds like a boost leak it usually is" where is it coming from? On this car boost pressure is recirculated into the intake and usually not to noticeable with the exception of aftermarket intakes, atmospheric DV's, or leaks. Checking for a boost leak should be done via a pressure test 25-30 psi in the induction system and traced with a soapy water solution. Shops will typically use an evap system smoke tester to identify leaks. This is ok for large leaks but the tester only puts out about 1-2 psi so smaller leaks that require more pressure will be invisible.

You have also mentioned this only became a problem after the ecu was replaced. This ecu requires logging into the Gecko system for proper programming. Typically only done at the dealer however we can do it here so your shop may also have the ability; I'd double check how the programming was done.

The P0033 - Turbocharger Bypass Valve (DV) Control Circuit: Malfunction / Open Circuit - is easy to test as it is controlled by the ECU. The connections and pin fit need to be clean and tight, the integrity of the wiring from the ecu to DV must be good. With a turbo replacement there is a chance the harness could have been chaffed during installation. If a wire has only one copper strand holding it together it will pass a resistance test but will not be able to carry current. The important thing to focus on is the fault description - a CIRCUIT fault as identified by the ecu who monitors it. An easy way to eliminate the wiring is to make an overlay harness eliminating the factory harness. If the problem persists everything points to the ecu.

A used ecu can be purchased from www.lkqonline.com for about $200. They offer free shipping and a free 6 month warranty. This would be an inexpensive way to eliminate the high price of a new ecu. The beauty of it is if it does not fix his problem it is returnable for a full refund. We are now offering this to clients concerned about voiding the warranty on their brand new VW or Audi. We program and tune the used ecu and they retain the factory untouched one for warranty purposes.


Questions? Let us know!
 
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