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CCTA motor in a CBFA chassis

Cole2999

Autocross Champion
In my pursuit of a proper replacement motor, I've mostly come across CCTA engines, yet I have a CBFA car. From some light research it seems possible to do the swap, but I want to confirm a few things:
- Electronically, is there anything I'll need to do? Any values that need to be changed in VCDS?
- Will I need to change anything about my oil level sensor?
- Could I just bung the 3rd O2 sensor into a spacer and call it good? Or even better:
- Could I cut the wires and splice them into one of the remaining O2 sensors?

I swear one of the first threads I saw on here when I joined this forum was talking about such a swap, but I cannot find it. I assume even if I don't change anything I'll still be able to get a running, driving car, albeit one with a couple of codes, right?
Thanks all
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion

Cole2999

Autocross Champion
I recall a thread from a while back, as well but forget what i'd need to search for. I did stumble on this one which seems to have some info you may need.

https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/index.php?threads/cbfa-in-ccta-car.388504/

it's the reverse situation here but still things to consider.
Indeed, found that one. In fact that's the thread that made me worry more, because if the swap is easy in one direction (since the CCTA is a simpler engine) it makes me feel like the other direction could pose problems.
Ah well, I'll find out soon enough. I have bids on a very low mileage motor from a Tiggy. Absolute worst case is I just use the short block and my CBFA head, but I think I should be able to get the motor running fine at the very least, even if it throws a code or two.
I'll also make sure to post a new thread on the swap so there's updated info for future swaps.
 

Grabbit

Go Kart Champion
I think the main difference on the long block is the secondary air injection ports in the head. The PVEZ compliant CBFA has a combi valve just below the vacuum pump on the driver side which the CCTA doesn't have. If you are going to be pulling the engine, swapping heads wouldn't be a huge deal provided its in good shape. Realistically this is just price of head gasket and head bolts. Watch out for the upper exhaust manifold bolts when pulling the turbo. They like to break and having one break off inside the head on cyl #1 is a real PITA. Ask me how I know....
 
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