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DIY on Brake Pad replacement on Mk6 GTI

Gti_Vroom415

Ready to race!
Disclosure: Do at your own risk. Working on cars may be dangerous.

This thread is to help new to GTI owners get a step by step on how to replace your brake pads and also kind of how to remove rotors.[emoji106]
I am not putting on new pads, there is a noise near my calipers that I took a look at, but I will show you how its all done.
If you feel I did something incorrect in my DIY, please tell me and I will fix the thread.

Ok first you will need a few items (Some not needed):
-A Jack to lift the car (factory Jack in trunk is fine to use)
-A Jack stand (highly recommended for safety but not needed)
-Something to put behind the wheel so your car doesn't roll.
-Torque Wrench w/17mm socket
-Ratchet w/ T45 bit
-Clip remover (not needed)
-Lugbolt cap remover (not needed, some GTIs have one in the trunk, or you can use a screw driver)
-Rubber Mallet (not needed)
-Anti-Seize ( not needed, just to keep everything nicely greased up)
-Disc Brake Caliper tool kit will be needed because our cars brake pistons don't just push in, they have to be turned in. (You can rent one at O'riely for a deposit, but when you return it, they give your deposit back, So in turn the rental is free)





Use the Lugbolt cap remover to first remove the black caps.


While car is parked(dsg) or in gear(mt), pull the emergency brake up for saftey.
And also put something behind the diagonal facing wheel that your working on. I'm working on the front right, so I put a stop on the back left just for safety, this step is not needed.



Next, let's get the jack posistioned properly. There is a marked area where the jack should be place, one on each corner of the chassis.


Before jacking up the car, slightly loosen the lug bolts using your torque wrench and 17mm socket, but don't loosen all the way, just until it is hand workable.


Next Jack up the car, and position the jack stand in a sturdy location. I chose to put it here and also keep the jack pumped slightly for extra safety.


Now remove all of the lugbolts and take off the wheel. Using just the 17mm socket. And take off the wheel.



Now we will move on to the removal of the caliper and brake pads. Take the rubber mallet and tap the caliper a couple times to loosen and stuck parts. This part is not needed but helps in some cases.


Use the clip remover to remove this part.




Now, looking behind the caliper, you will see 2 black plastic caps that are housing the caliper bolts use a clip remover or your hands to remove them.
1st one and second is on the bottom




Now use your ratchet and T45 bit to unscew 2 caliper bolts. Sometimes the bolt can't be pulled out. Pry it where the bolt ends.


Pry here


After removing both bolts the caliper should come off. The back side pad is cliped in the piston but the front should come off easy.


Remove both pads.


DONT NOT LET CALIPER HANG, you may rupture the brake line.

I put it up here


Now if you want to remove the rotors you simply remove these 2 bolts on the caliper frame where my fingers are touching


And also this one screw on the rotor then the rotor will come off.


Now before you start putting everything thing back together you must pop the hood and open the brake fluid tank


It is located here


Unscrew it and lean it against the catch net.


I put a towel over so nothing gets in but its not needed


You have to open the cap so when you turn in the caliper piston the pressure can be released

Now we come back to the caliper and turn the piston in using our caliper kit.
Find the appropriate tool for the car. In my kit, these work for the front since you don't need to turn the front piston in


I use this for the rear. Since the rear one need to be turned in. The little prongs make the turn possible


Now put it together and put the piston in


From this point you will just put in the new pads, close the brake fluid tank, put on the cailper and put on the wheel. Just do all the steps backward and u will be fine. If you have any question feel free to ask anytime! Hope this thread helped!! [emoji51] [emoji51] [emoji106] my first write up I guess?? sorry for the picture rotation , idk how that happened









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Last edited:

Shwizzle

Ready to race!
Nice write up! I would also suggest to grease the slide pins. And after brakes are installed to slowly pump brake pedal until the Pistons make contact with the pads. Some nubs may just hop right in and mash the pedal to the floor or take off without the pads fully seated
 

Gti_Vroom415

Ready to race!
I would also suggest to grease the slide pins. And after brakes are installed to slowly pump brake pedal until the Pistons make contact with the pads.

^this

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rpandresen

Ready to race!
This is the first car I've ever seen that people suggest putting in new rotors with a brake change. Is that really necessary?
 

eldiablo1

Ready to race!
This is the first car I've ever seen that people suggest putting in new rotors with a brake change. Is that really necessary?

Not necessary. Unless the condition warrants replacement.

I would also suggest that lubricating all brake pad contact points with Syl-Glide is a requirement (backs of pads where they contact the caliper as well as where the pad sits in the caliper). As already mentioned, lube your caliper pins while you are at it.

I would also try to avoid placing the jack stands under the control arm housings.
 

Shwizzle

Ready to race!
If your rotors aren't to bad you can always have them resurfaced If they are badly rusted or having vibration when braking replace them
 

Gti_Vroom415

Ready to race!
It is possible to resurface OEM gti rotors, but it is not recommended.

Also very dependent on if your rotors are warped or not.

Drilled and slotted dont have much of an option of resurfacing

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Gti_Vroom415

Ready to race!
Not necessary. Unless the condition warrants replacement.

I would also suggest that lubricating all brake pad contact points with Syl-Glide is a requirement (backs of pads where they contact the caliper as well as where the pad sits in the caliper). As already mentioned, lube your caliper pins while you are at it.

I would also try to avoid placing the jack stands under the control arm housings.
Suggestion on a better jack stand contact point?

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eldiablo1

Ready to race!
Suggestion on a better jack stand contact point?

I jack the car using the factory pinch welds and then place the stands under the frame (just inside of pinch weld) at the location where I have installed jack pads.

These locations can be seen in the video for the ECS jack pad kit. I highly recommend such a kit if you work on your GTI.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES251745/Video220-HD/
 

realcyberbob

Go Kart Champion
At what thickness are you supposed to change the pads? What about the rotors? Thanks for the DIY, looks easy.
 

Shwizzle

Ready to race!
Maybe 20% on pads. On rotors if they're warped or rusted badly replace. To see if in spec would need to check run out and thickness
 

realcyberbob

Go Kart Champion
Maybe 20% on pads. On rotors if they're warped or rusted badly replace. To see if in spec would need to check run out and thickness

What's the thickness on new pads?
 

scott_nichol

New member
I just tried to do a pad/rotor replacement on my Mk6 Golf TDI over the weekend and was unable to remove the bolts on the CALIPER FRAME (the bolts on the caliper were no problem). Do these bolts and the caliper frame need to be removed in order to get the rotor off? I've seen videos of front brake jobs for older generation Golfs where the caliper frame wasn't removed and the rotor was replaced with it in place.

Thanks in advance,
scott


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