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Oil Change DIY

roastpuff

Go Kart Champion
So, I changed the oil in my GTI yesterday because I'm planning to go to a dyno day on Saturday, and then autocrossing the car next weekend. The factory fill was the oil still inside, and I wanted that out along with what particles it may have collected during the 2500km since delivery.

Here's a how-to using the instructions from here:

1. Put car up on ramps and open hood:


2. Get your supplies out - oil, drain pan, funnel, filter, gloves, 19mm wrench, shop towels etc.


My oil of choice - Motul X-Cess 8100 5W40.


3. Go underneath car and undo the drain plug. Make sure the drain pan is already down there before you undo it, haha.





4. Allow oil to drain out, and undo the oil filter up top. I removed the engine cover to make life easier.



Here's when I ran into problems - I couldn't find the proper size filter wrench. It was either too loose or too small. So, I ended up not changing the filter for now - I will change the filter at 8000kms, along with the engine oil.

Since the factory interval is 15000kms anyways, I think I should be fine... hopefully. :iono:

5. Replace oil filter, after lubing up the seal with some engine oil. Just dip a finger in there and do it.

6. Replace drain plug - you can use a new one or the same one, I did the 2nd option.

Make sure you have the drain plug on tight before filling up the car with oil.

7. Add oil - surely you don't need pictures for this one... When you're nearly at 4.5 quarts, slow down. Put the oil cap back on, and start up the car. Let it run for a minute or two, then check the oil level using the dipstick. Add if necessary.

I ended up using almost 5 quarts of Motul, and the dipstick showed nicely full all the way to the top of the dotted part.

8. All done! Clean up your car, tools, work area and back it off the ramp.

It's quite simple... just make sure you have the right oil filter wrench. :mad0259:
 

roastpuff

Go Kart Champion
nice write up! thank you

do you feel the performance difference?
The engine warms up much faster, and responds better to the throttle. Whether this is placebo, due to fresh oil or because it's a better oil, I don't know. :p

It definitely sounds smoother, though, and is more responsive.
 

fokker

Ready to race!
How did your factory fill look? Lots of metal particles in there or pretty clean? Did you break-in hard or follow owner's manual? Thanks.
 

bigshoulders

Ready to race!
I've been curious about the DIY oil change ever since I saw the engine.
Seeing that oil filter on top was weird. Easy to change, but potentially messy if you don't let it drain the oil. Also, did the underside of your bumper clear those ramps as you drove them on the ramp?

I've always been under the impression that you didn't really need to use an oil filter wrench in order to install a new filter. I've always hand-tightened them myself, but I have had times when I've had to wrench a stubborn filter off that was installed by a mechanic. As someone who's changed his own oil for the past 10 years, I've never had a leak around the filter seal. My current car is a diesel so there are misc. leaks after 12 years, but never around the filter, and I always hand tighten that sucker.

Cheers,
Kevin

PS: On second thought, there may not even be room for your hand to really grip that filter. That's a pretty tight space.
 
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roastpuff

Go Kart Champion
How did your factory fill look? Lots of metal particles in there or pretty clean? Did you break-in hard or follow owner's manual? Thanks.
It looked pretty dirty, but with modern synthetics it's pretty hard to tell as they're supposed to get discolored quickly by doing it's job. I didn't spend a lot of time looking at it either, haha. :laugh:

I've been curious about the DIY oil change ever since I saw the engine.
Seeing that oil filter on top was weird. Easy to change, but potentially messy if you don't let it drain the oil. Also, did the underside of your bumper clear those ramps as you drove them on the ramp?

I've always been under the impression that you didn't really need to use an oil filter wrench in order to install a new filter. I've always hand-tightened them myself, but I have had times when I've had to wrench a stubborn filter off that was installed by a mechanic. As someone who's changed his own oil for the past 10 years, I've never had a leak around the filter seal. My current car is a diesel so there are misc. leaks after 12 years, but never around the filter, and I always hand tighten that sucker.

Cheers,
Kevin

PS: On second thought, there may not even be room for your hand to really grip that filter. That's a pretty tight space.
There's a check valve in the filter itself, so it won't spill a drop when you unscrew it, according to other TSI owners who have changed the filter. Just be ready to catch the filter in a bag so that it doesn't have a chance of disgorging some of that oil inside.

It was a tight fit on the ramps! :lol: I barely cleared it, and that's with putting the ramps on an incline (my garage has a slope leading inside).

There was no space for my hand, and it was a very tight fit in there, so the strap-style wrench I had didn't work either. The filter wouldn't budge at all, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was indeed over-tightened from the factory. I have to go find the proper size (75mm) filter wrench cap to take the filter off properly, I guess.
 

roastpuff

Go Kart Champion
a screwdriver and hammer threw the filter will get that sucker off
I didn't want to resort to such drastic measures, haha. :p I figured the filter was still good for another oil change, since it was meant to stay on for 10,000 miles anyways. Was more worried about the particles suspended in oil that the filter didn't catch.
 

MkVi_Ian

Ready to race!
There's a check valve in the filter itself, so it won't spill a drop when you unscrew it, according to other TSI owners who have changed the filter. Just be ready to catch the filter in a bag so that it doesn't have a chance of disgorging some of that oil inside.
cool! i was wondering how teh filter was going to come out without dribbling everywhere. :drool:
 

roastpuff

Go Kart Champion
Stock car, stock numbers. It's a really low-reading Mustang dyno, so I got 150whp which is 200 crank hp according to the dyno operator.
 

Cannon03

Ready to race!
cool. were you doing it just to get a base before you start modding? what do you have planned for the GTI?
 

ch1pman

Passed Driver's Ed
Thanks!

First of all - great post. Its awesome that someone takes the time to do this and your post was a huge help to me. I have a couple of things that I learned that would make it perfect.

First of all - the wrench. I dont know about others, but my filter was on good - as in no way of getting it off w/o a wrench. Well I just happened to get my hands on the perfect wrench for this job..there are several different kinds, but here are a couple designs - called a 'claw' wrench I think:


One other thing - a 19mm socket might work, but its not the right size and you might damage your plug head. On a MkVI you need an 18mm socket - I picked one up at the local auto parts store. I have three socket sets that all skip a 16 and 18mm size. I even tried to get closer than a 19 trying standard sockets but alas it is 18mm and nothing but :)

Thanks again for a great DIY!
 

gunmetal5

Ready to race!
What brand oil do you guys use? and what weight? I heard that with Audi, if you do not use a specific Audi approved engine oil they will void your warranty.. Not if this is 100% legit but i've read that somewhere...
 

hugoender1

Ready to race!
I think it would be useful if the OP could include a detailed list of materials (ramp, oil, filter, etc.) and if this thread was stickied.
 
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roastpuff

Go Kart Champion
What is the filter part number ?

Thanks !
Oil filter part number is 06J115403C.

Here's a link: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil_Filter/ES1899285/

What brand oil do you guys use? and what weight? I heard that with Audi, if you do not use a specific Audi approved engine oil they will void your warranty.. Not if this is 100% legit but i've read that somewhere...
I'm currently using Motul X-Cess 8100 5W40, which is VW approved. The weight our engine calls for is 5W40, normally, but I will be running Castrol Syntec (German Castrol) 0W30 in the future, and it'll be fine due to the fact that it's a "heavy" 30wt. To avoid warranty issues, I would stick to the list of approved VW oils listed here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2237991&postid=24073129#24073129 Some oils are able to exceed these standards, but are not listed as approved (Amsoil etc.) so I'm not sure about these.

I think it would be useful if the OP could include a detailed list of materials (ramp, oil, filter, etc.) and if this thread was stickied.
List of stuff you need for an oil change:
1. Oil (duh) :p
2. Some sort of lifting mechanism - jack/jackstands, ramps.
3. Oil drain pan
4. New oil filter (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil_Filter/ES1899285/)
5. Oil filter wrench (75mm)
6. Cleaning supplies
7. 18/19mm wrench for drain plug
 
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