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podi - VW Mk6 boost gauge package presale!

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winston@podi.ca

Ready to race!
Mr.Alex said:
When you say tap a constant power fuse, do you mean get another add a circuit? or how would that work?

And I think Il just use one posi-tap connector to get both the black wires into the ground.
Click to expand...

Well the way we installed it is different than the way you have and without the pictures it is hard for me to describe.

If you do not have a way to tap for constant power and want to get the gauge setup working right away you can connect the yellow and red wires together to the same switched +12V source.

With this wiring setup the gauge will turn off immediately when the car is turned off and the needle will just point at its last position vs. shutting down where the needle sweeps down to -30 and park there.
 
Mr.Alex

Mr.Alex

I Got That 6.
According to the DIY on MK5 for battery power it goes into the add a circuit in slot 36?

Step 20:
Install the add-a-circuit connectors to the fuse panel in space #36 (fifth row, five in) for the battery power and space #42(sixth row, 3 in) for the switched power.* Twist the red wire for the boost sensor and the wire designated for switched power for the gauges together and crimp those to the loose wire for the add-a-circuit in fuse #42. Then crimp the the wire used for battery power to the gauges to the add-a-circuit wire in fuse #36. Finally, twist the ground wires together along with the ground wire for the boost sensor, and crimp it to a spade connector. Loosen the screw on top of the fuse panel and install the spade connector with the ground wires behind it. The metal should be bare. If it's not, use some sandpaper to sand it bare. Install the boost tube to the boost sensor, and place the sensor on top of the fuse panel. Group all the wires together, and you're good to go.
 
Mr.Alex

Mr.Alex

I Got That 6.
Ok so someone needs to tell me what Im doing wrong.

- I added the yellow [battery] wire to the add a circuit in fuse #36 (only one ten amp fuse in the add-a-circuit as the spot was empty].

-I twisted the two red wires [one from sensor and one from gauge] and crimped them into the add a circuit in spot 42.

-I used a butt connector to for the orange wire of the gauge to the white wire of the sensor.

-Then I used a posi-tap connector and twisted both black wires and tapped them into the ground in the headlight switch [brown wire].

Absolutely nothing happens at all, no light, no twitch, nothing. Im getting really, really annoyed because my car looks like somebody tried to hotwire it and just said "fuck it" and left.
 
I

ImAuthenticFTW

Go Kart Champion
Mr.Alex said:
Ok so someone needs to tell me what Im doing wrong.

- I added the yellow [battery] wire to the add a circuit in fuse #36 (only one ten amp fuse in the add-a-circuit as the spot was empty].

-I twisted the two red wires [one from sensor and one from gauge] and crimped them into the add a circuit in spot 42.

-I used a butt connector to for the orange wire of the gauge to the white wire of the sensor.

-Then I used a posi-tap connector and twisted both black wires and tapped them into the ground in the headlight switch [brown wire].

Absolutely nothing happens at all, no light, no twitch, nothing. Im getting really, really annoyed because my car looks like somebody tried to hotwire it and just said "fuck it" and left.
Click to expand...

double check where your "36" is at, cause there def should have been a fuse in there already.
 
Mr.Alex

Mr.Alex

I Got That 6.
Its def at 36 and there was a fuse at 37 though. But everything else is right?
 
Mr.Alex

Mr.Alex

I Got That 6.
No other tips? Im stuck with no more directions and/or a faulty gauge?
 
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winston@podi.ca

Ready to race!
If you do not have a voltmeter or device to check if the spot is switched or constant power then all I can suggest is the following to determine if the power location you have chose are correct or not.

Take both red wires AND the yellow wire and twist them together. Add a length of wire so you can touch them to the power locations you have chosen and touch the wire to them.

If the power tap location is constant power the gauge will light up and the needle will sweep.

If the power tap location is switched +12V the gauge will only light up if you key the engine on.

If NOTHING happens then you have either chosen the wrong power tap locations or have a bad ground.

I have asked my designer to email me the pictures of the tap locations we used ASAP and I will post them up.
 
Mr.Alex

Mr.Alex

I Got That 6.
Thats going to be difficult, their all crimped. Apparently Authentic had a fue already present at the 36/battery power slot and he used it in the add a circuit. I only have the ten amp fuse in there cause the slot was empty for me.
 
W

winston@podi.ca

Ready to race!
IIRC constant power is this location.

Upper slot is hot.

 
Mr.Alex

Mr.Alex

I Got That 6.
Il try that tommorow morning, hope it works. Kinda looks like slot 31 and 39.
 
Mr.Alex

Mr.Alex

I Got That 6.
New question . I haven't put the headlight switch panel back so the dimmer isn't connected, but my gauge is lit up all the time. even if I don't have my lights on.
 
W

winston@podi.ca

Ready to race!
The stepper gauge backlighting is on all the time.

I have noted the request to have the backlighting be controlled by the dimmer wire and will try to have it as a feature in the next revision of the gauge.
 
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